Wizcrafts

Please post a close up photo showing how the thread is feeding into the top tension disks. Show the entire tension plate. It could be threaded incorrectly. Also, examine the thread path from the spool to the needle. See if it encounters any burrs along the way, or gets twisted around a guide or post, or gets caught under the spool, or wraps around itself coming off the spool. Gotta go to work. Good luck..

I can't help you with troubleshooting that machine as I don't have one to use as a reference.

Here are two manuals courtesy of Consew. One is the operator's manual and the other is the parts numbers book. 226R-1 Operator.pdf 226R-1 Parts.pdf

I found a typo and some inaccuracies. Adler is misspelled Addler. Also, you included Cowboy 29 and 227 machines in the thread size 207 group which they don't belong in. You also included the CB29 in the #277 group which is way beyond it capabilities.

This Needle and Thread Chart will help you choose the best combinations.

This photo was take during WW1 and was in the collection of British Field Marshall Earl Haig.

I buy thread from different stores. Most of it comes from our Cowboy sewing machine dealer. Others come from Superior Thread, or Wawak. I still have some Weaver bonded nylon thread, but is very twisty and expensive. Your machine uses the ubiquitous system 135x16 and 135x17 needles. They are sold everywhere industrial sewing machines are sold and serviced. I buy some Japanese needles on eBay that are titanium coated and like them just fine. But, now and then I want something a little better made and buy Schmetz or Groz Beckert needles.

I do not recommend using #207 thread in that machine. I have the same machine in my shop and limit it to #138 maximum, using a #23/160 needle. The 2700 is normally used with thinner thread, like #69 and #92. It is not strong enough to regularly punch through with #207 thread. But, if you really want to use that thread, get some System 135x16 (leather pt) or 135x17 (round pt) needles in size 24. Just make sure you understand how to re-time the needle bar to the hook after you knock it out of time.

Those are oil wicks. Please stick them back inside the head and make sure they contact the needle bar and inside foot bar.

You will have to join our forum and become a member to upload pictures to our server. However, you can post a link to an online image as a guest using the lower right button labeled: Insert image from URL That image will have to be hosted elsewhere.

Danielle; You will get better answers in you become a member and take your question to the Leather Sewing Machines forum. All posts and replies in the Help Wanted forum must wait for a moderator to see them and approve them before they are visible. Trying to troubleshoot in this section will be very frustrating. If you do join us, post a new topic in the Leather Sewing Machines forum. Include your machine make and model and post a picture or two showing your problem. As a member you can fill in a profile. Please include your location so you get properly targeted replies about sources of machines and parts.

I have learned to adjust the check spring tension and stroke according to the type of material and thread I am using. My most common combination is #92 (T90) bonded nylon thread, top and bottom, with a #19 (120) needle, into about 1/8 inch of leather, plus or minus. On my long arm machine, the top tension is fairly high most of the time. This is because I upgraded the tension spring to a heavy duty type. ;-) By running not too loose tensions I get tight stitches on the top and bottom of the work. (Aside: there are exceptions where I back off the top and bobbin tensions). I find that with this machine, which has been upgraded to use a Juki U hook and take-up lever, The top thread tends to snap as it passes around the hook. I can offset this by feeding a little more thread during the downstroke by playing with the check spring stopper and its position in the curved slot. It only takes a minute or two to find this setting and it makes it so much smoother to sew. Shortening the throw of the spring causes the top thread to be more slack on as the take-up lever starts down. The position of the screw in the slot in the disks fine tunes this. A standard factory setup usually has the screw in the dead center of the disks. Rotating the disks to the left increases the slack thread tension and vice versa. As for the travel, I always ensure that the spring holds the top thread taut until the needle fully goes through all layers. I NEVER let it continue holding the thread to BDC! That is asking for skipped stitches. The needle thread should have a little slack at BDC which increases as it moves up 3/32 inch to form a good loop for pickoff time. I have literally seen loops disappear on the upstroke when the check spring throw is too long. It is easy to watch this process on a shoe patcher. All of this is my opinion, based upon my own findings with my own sewing machines. Your results may vary.

This stuff should be posted in the Off Topic forum. We try to segment our topics and this section is for technical and operational leather sewing machine issues. Off topic has other political discussions going on.

Jeff; I went through the same thing with digital servo motors. Now I only buy analog control servo motors, such as those sold here. These motors can be setup with a tiny 45mm motor pulley, or a larger 70mm. The smaller one makes it easier to feather the machine for very slow sewing. The larger one gives more top speed. I find the larger one unnecessary in leather sewing where you probably won't want to exceed 10 to 15 stitches per second flat out.

The Juki LU-562 is a Japanese clone of the Singer 111w155. It uses the same "standard" size bobbin as the Singer 111. One is very good condition might be worth 4 or 5 hundred bucks; 6 tops. The Artisan on the pedestal stand might bring 1300 or so. It is a heavy duty stitcher that sold for about $2700 new. The Tippmann could be a Boss manual sewing machine, or an air operated sewing machine, or a clicker press. Which is it? If you want to try selling these machines on our forum, please place an ad in our Marketplace section, under Machinery > Sewing and stitching > Used. Include prices and your location, as well as contact info.

I have a similar machine (a clone). Wallets yes, holsters no!

I hope you didn't pay very much for this fixer upper! It needs a lot of parts and work.

The Cowboy CB227R is a clone of your Consew. In the description sidebar it says they have a flat table attachment available. You can contact the dealer about it. You must have a pedestal table to mount it. I have a bigger machine that has a flat bed attachment that has long bolts that go into holes drilled into the pedestal and fasten with nuts and washers. The one for the 227 would probably work the same way.

I only use a #22 with #138 thread when sewing soft temper material. Anything that is dense will be easier to sew with a #23 needle. It also calls for more torque to punch through.

Several years ago, I tried sewing 8 ounces of chrome tan (4-5 oz) lined with suede (3oz), with #138 thread and a #23 needle, at different speeds and found that the needle started smoking at about 9 stitches per second. Above that the smoking got worse and the thread eventually melted or shredded.

The member's IP address suggests that he is in France. But, he could be using a VPN to mask his true location.

Do me a favor and let us know if the U style bobbins are a good fit, or if they are too big.

I recently mentioned System 134-35 needles vs 135x17 (and 135x16) in another topic. The difference from the top of the mounting shank to the eye is only 0.8mm shorter in 134-35. Some folks and some dealers adjust their timing to use either system and still be in time. This is done by setting the needle bar a little lower with 135x17 so that the hook will arrive higher above the eye so that System 134-35 needles will be just above the eye and pick off the thread loop. On your machine, the dealer raised the needle bar to accommodate the longer needles. You might be able to use either if the hook is higher above the eye than usual. Why would you use System 134-35? Because they are available in S point from Groz-Beckert and Schmetz. This is an inline leather point needle.

I think that Claes are the only patchers that can do longer stitches than 4 to the inch. Singer patchers are limited to 5/inch. I used an Adler 30-70 that was capable of 4 to the inch. My Adler 30-7 can't quite give that length but comes close. I have never seen a patcher sew 2 to the inch. It would have to have longer legs than the long throw Adlers. However, two of my patchers have a T bar on top that is used for darning. This lifts the foot off the work long enough to pull it for long stitches.

This is one way I lock starting and ending stitches if I don't want to, or simply can't backtack or spin the work around. I call it double-tapping the stitches. With two knots buried in the same hole they aren't coming out any time soon.