Wizcrafts

I was a little confused by this post because of the mention of System 134-35 needles. I have since learned a few things about them and why one might choose to use them in a machine that normally uses System 135x16 needles. As Bob mentioned before me, there is only a 32nd of an inch (0.8mm) difference in the length from the top of the shank to the eye. One thing about the system 134-35 needles is that Schmetz needles are available in an "S" point, just like the S points used in the Cowboy, Cobra and Techsew big harness stitchers in their System 794 needles. So, for the loss of 3/32 inch of length one can get S point needles that sew inline stitches instead of slightly tilted stitches. As I have also learned, if one advances the hook (not recommended), or re-positions the needle bar down a tad (better), the hook can arrive higher up in the scarf above the eye with system 135x16 needles and still be in time with the ever so slightly shorter System 134-35 needles. This way you could switch between regular leather points and Schmetz S points with no further adjustments. I haven't tried this yet, but intend to. One just has to ensure that the needle moves about 3/32" up from BDC when the hook intersects the needle higher up in the scarf, maybe 5/32" above the eye instead of 1/16". Once I get me some 134-35 schmetz S points I will report my findings based upon a Singer 139w109 long arm walking foot machine.

The Cobra 26 uses top loading large “U” style bobbins, which are oft referred to as Juki bobbins, as used in the Juki LU-563 and LU-1508 series machines. There are double the capacity of the industry standard G size bobbins used in the Singer 111 type machines. You can buy U style bobbins from most industrial sewing machine dealers and online suppliers. Or, contact Leather Machine Company for their price. I would by a pack of ten and preload them with various sizes or colors of thread to match your projects.

You might want to convert those photos into something that can be opened on a Windows computer. JPG is a more common file type. I can't open your photos on Windows 10. Can't open these in Windows 10

Oi Vey! Leave it alone and have a professional come over, or bring the head to a sewing machine mechanic.

New machines are heavily oiled before being shipped. When your importer got it out of the crate it may have also been covered in grease. They may have left the oil there for the reseller to deal with. Get some cheap wash cloths (18 in a pack) from Walmart and wipe it down. Oil it after heavy use, or weekly, and keep those Wally World rags handy. Leave a rag under the feet when you are done sewing for the day. Also, you have to open the faceplate and place drops of oil into the tiny holes in all of the bell cranks and moving parts. I buy precision oilers to do this. The oil will leak out the bottom until it settles in and you learn how much to give it. Failure to oil a new machine, especially the moving parts in the business end of the head, can lead to a seizure.

A few decades ago I was sewing safety vests that were edge bound. I tried using off the shelf binders to no avail. The dealer finally gave me a number to call and I had a binder custom built for the machine and the binding I wanted to use. Once I got that binder I never had a binding problem whether on inside/outside curves, turns, or straightaways. You may need to explore a custom binder and foot set to go with it.

OEM parts are always more expensive than aftermarket parts from Wuhan. They are warranted against defects and more likely to be a perfect fit for your machine. Sometimes they are not stocked by your dealer and have to be special ordered. Since you are not using the machine now, why not remove the hook and examine the tip and ramp for burrs from needle strikes. The point should be well defined and sharp. The ramp portion that carries the thread around the bobbin basket should be smooth. If these things are true there is no need to replace the hook. When you reinstall the hook (current or replacement), set the opener arm so it stops before pulling the tab all the way back. It needs a bit of clearance. And, make sure that when the hook picks off the thread loop, it carries it smoothly around the bobbin basket. There shouldn't be any hangs in this motion. If the thread makes a snapping sound, move the check spring disk to the right in its slot to give more slack thread. Do this until the snapping stops. You may also need to reduce the thread tensions to accomplish this. The machine will be happier, like the Canadiens fans were last night.

I run a Consew 206rb-18, which is the same thing but longer. I time this machine so that when the needle has risen about 3/32" the very tip of the hook meets the center of the needle 1/16" above the top of the eye. If I encounter skipped stitches after that I move the hook saddle closer to the needle and bend the deflector if necessary so the hook comes as close as possible but doesn't actually hit the needle. Did you know that a left to right threaded needle tends to get pulled to the left as you sew? The amount of pull varies with the diameter of the body and how tight the top and bottom threads are tensioned. A number 16 or 18 needle will be pulled more to the left than a number 20 or 21. This explains why a perfectly timed machine might still skip stitches. Other factors come into play, but needle pull can't be ignored. Obviously, if you reduce the thread tensions to the minimum that still gives a good stitch, the deflection will be minimized. Lastly, observe the check spring as you hand wheel the machine. It should rest all the way down against the bottom stop bracket (adjustable) then pull up smoothly as the take-up lever moves up. As the take-up becomes let down, the spring should keep the top thread taut until the needle has fully pierced the material, then it should stop against the stop bracket. The spring tension should be strong enough to bring the spring down to its resting position, but not much more than that.

You will need to change to a different type of servo. I had a few like yours and swapped them out for a Family Sew FS-550s. These motors can sew under 1 stitch per second with a speed reducer, or possibly 2 per second direct, depending on the size of the hand wheel pulley.

I can't tell how it needs to be sewn from the photo you posted. Can you please post another view of the shoe showing where the sewing has to be performed? Shoot at the lowest "resolution" and use a photo editor to reduce the file size if necessary. If you have a wide enough lip around the bottom of the shoe it can be edge stitched then trimmed. The width of that lip and its thickness will help with the machine choices.

I can tell you that this model is a light duty straight stitch machine with a fixed presser foot and bottom feed. It uses G size bobbins which are also used in the Singer 111 series machines. I have a walking foot version called the model 168. I use #69 or #92 thread in it. It is a great machine for sewing hats, ball caps, bags, etc. Basically, it sews around the tall, narrow post. If it can fit over the post you can sew it.

LOL (I know that). Sorry, I couldn't resist!

I moved this question to the How Do I Do That section where you will get more answers. The Help Wanted section requires every post and reply to await approval from a moderator before they become visible. Further, Help Wanted is actually for people looking for help making things, as in subcontracted work.

Oh???

No. I am saying that 3/8 inch is the maximum thickness they can sew. That is not supposed to be the constant thickness, just the occasional seam. If a project is 3/8 inch solid, it needs a different machine that can handle thick thread and has longer needles and stronger tension disks and a beefier take-up lever. It requires either a sole stitcher or a harness stitcher.

To sew 1cm you will need a different kind of sewing machine than a standard upholstery class walking foot. It will have to sew thicker than those machines are built to sew. Most upholstery class machines max out at 3/8 inch, with is 10mm There are a few options you have to sew this thickness. But, first you have to decide on the geometry of the arm. How will you be sewing the parts together: from the outside edge or inside the slipper? It would really help if you post some photos of the slippers or shoes you want to make. Otherwise, we are just going to guess wildly about the type of machine you will need.

I have a type of servo motor that is "analog" and has replaceable brushes, a replaceable cork brake and a speed control knob that rotates (rotary switch) to limit the speed. It is very common and sold under different brand names in various countries and geo-locations. The motor itself is extremely quiet in operation and totally silent until it is activated. A kitchen appliance is much noisier than this servo motor. Here is the servo motor I use. I'm confident you can find a similar make in your country, or import one.

Awesome find!

All posts about sewing machines for sale must go in the Marketplace section of LWN. I am moving it now.

If the needle is the correct length and the hook passes above the eye as the needle ascends, the needle may be in backwards. Make sure the scarf faces the hook.

Once you finalize the 3D coordinates and create a functional part, please start a topic about it in our 3d printers and lasers sub-forum. You can even upload a file for others to use.

Did you also order their double sided leather tape? They stock it in 4 widths, all in 60 yard lengths.

Yes to both parts of your question. The Adler can sew heavier leather, but that doesn't appear to be an issue in this project. Your real decisions are: Do I need a large bobbin or will a small bobbin machine do? Do I want a new or a used machine? If used, do I want to spend the money for a German made machine and its not so cheap replacement parts? If no to #3, am I prepared to repair/rebuild a possibly worn out Singer 29 series patcher? Do I want a manually treadled machine or one mounted on a power stand? If you prefer to buy a new patcher, it won't be an Adler or Singer. It will be a Chinese clone of a Singer 29. Make sure you buy from a dealer who will service it and has parts if something goes bad and who will talk you through the growing pains. If you go the used route, know that sometimes the foot driving cam is so worn down it may not sew longer than 9 or 10 stitches per inch. New, a Singer 29 should sew up to 5 to the inch, into about 6 or 7 ounces of shoe leather. If you find a really tight patcher that you can afford, buy it and run with it as l;ong as you can. When it wears out and loses stitch length and quality, rebuild it, or sell it and buy a newer old one (or a brand new clone). I use my Adler for most patch projects. Occasionally, I use the Singer where the small nose profile is required. I wouldn't be without it in my line of work. Your use is defined though. You can use a large bobbin machine if you can find one you can afford. We have a member on LWN who rebuilds Adler patchers: @shoepatcher

I too sew on patches for a living. In my shop I have flat bed, post bed and cylinder arm machines. I use the flatbed for sewing through the fronts and backs. I use the post machine to sew over a back liner that zips open on the bottom. I use boot patchers to sew over pockets. Since you are looking into another machine, I recommend a long arm, big bobbin patcher. You can find used ones made by Singer (29 series) and Adler (30 series). I have a short arm, small bobbin Singer 29k71 treadle machine and a long arm, big bobbin Adler 30-7 on a power stand. The Adler does most of the work. The Singer has a tiny bobbin and the short arm has its limitations.

I have that same Adler 30-7, except mine is gray. It is a long arm large bobbin model with extra long needles (332LLG) allowing it to sew up to 3/8 inch. The needles are uncommon and tend to be expensive. Adler USA does sell them in boxes of 100 if you can't find a dealer who has any in stock. Assuming you can find them, the needles are/were made in sizes 18/110 through 24/180. As for the thread sizes, I keep mine threaded with #92 bonded nylon. On rare occasions I load a bobbin with #138 and use the same size on the top. A full bobbin of #138 can sew about 5 suede lined rifle slings (bodies and tails). I used to pre-wind a bunch of bobbins when I had to sew a run of straps on an Adler 30-70, back in 2009 through 2012. As for sewing patches, you can actually get by using #69 bonded nylon with a #18/110 needle. I keep #92 thread in my Adler patcher because I repair things too. I would not recommend using #138 thread to sew patches because you may destroy the embroidered edges. Even a #19 needle separates some soft woven edges. A #18 needle does less visual damage to the patches. That's why I recommend #69 thread. Also, you might be able to find a box of prewound black bobbins in #69 bonded nylon. FYI: I also have a Singer 29k71 patcher that I only use with #69 thread and a #18 needle. Thus there isn't much reason for me to run that thread in the Adler.