Wizcrafts

I recently bought a 3/4 inch swing out single fold edge tape attachment on ebay and am waiting for a spare bobbin cover sliding plate to J.B. Weld it to. The mouth of the folder (business end) is fairly wide and looks like it can handle almost 1/4 inch combined edge thickness. I will report back once it is mounted and I try it out. The edge tape I bought for it is fairly thin polyester (looks like the equiv of 1.5 ozs). It looks like it can feed leather edging too as long as is thin enough to go thru the bent channel in the binder (guessing about 2 oz). There are certain folders that are extra wide for edging carpeting. I haven't gone there yet. All of these folders are made to feed slippery edging, like cloth, nylon and polyester. They slide through with little resistance compared to leather than may be sticky. Double folders are trickier than single folders with almost any material.

Actually, I proposed to the Admin that we create a new sub-forum for members to discuss old domestic sewing machines. I have a couple myself and until last year I refurbished and sold old iron body Singer home machines. I will let you all know if or when this new forum is created. Until then, feel free to continue this particular discussion.

It may be time for a new sub-forum for discussing domestic sewing machines. This forum, as the label suggests, is for industrial leather sewing machines. The Singer 15-91 is a domestic straight stitch sewing machine for cloth.

The Singer 111W156 and 211G156 have reverse. I have a 211G156. It gets 5 stitches per inch in both directions and the holes match.

These all have 4 motion feed dogs. This is also known as drop feed and it is pretty much the standard feed system in both walking foot and straight stitch machines. Sliding feed is non-standard and is only useful on binder machines. Otherwise, it is an impediment in my opinion. Those who already have such machines either learn to make do with the sliding feeder or sell them off and buy a 4 motion feeder machine.

Don't use a round point needle in leather if you can avoid it. The round holes are the wrong configuration for sewing animal skins. You should use either a wedge, chisel, or diamond/triangle shaped needle. As for matching needles and thread sizes, here is a needle and thread chart.

That machine is a clone of the Singer 45k25. It is similar to other clones, like the Cowboy CB2500 and the ubiquitous GA5-1 models.

Don't expect professional results from one of those Chinese or Vietnamese patch machines.

I was just about to tell him to try this needle system. It may or may not be necessary to slightly raise or lower the needle bar to get perfect timing.

Outsoles are usually edge sewn on a curved needle and awl lockstitch machine, like the Landis 12 series machines found in most shoe repair shops. Sometimes the soles are sewn from inside the upside down shoe. The machine that does this is called a McKay machine and it is a chainstitcher. The chain lies inside the shoe or boot and gets covered by an insole pad. The seams and decorative patterns on the uppers can be sewn on a zig zag or a straight stitch roller foot machine. Sometimes a double or triple needle machine is used, as is done on Redwing work boots. Because the inside thread is hidden a chainstitch machine is sometimes used. There are lots of videos on YouTube demonstrating the use of these machines on shoes and boots. I recommend that you watch everything published by our friend and advertiser Lisa Sorrell. Her YouTube channel is called "It's a Boot Life."

I guess that depends on where in the World you are located! You don't have that info in your profile. I get sewing machine parts from various wholesalers and industrial sewing machine dealers. If there is a dealer anywhere near you, look them up and call, email, or live chat them.

The Singer 29 and Adler 30 class top universal feed machines are known as shoe and boot "patchers." They are staples in the shoe "repair" business, not so much in the shoe manufacturing business. In order to get recommendations for a first machine that is used to make, rather than repair shoes, you need to explain what type of shoes you plan to make. Links and/or photos will help define your end game.

I've sewn end caps on dice cups using a shoe patcher. They usually allow you to get close to 1/8 to 3/16 inch from the edge to the needle. There is no need for an edge guide as long as your edge is even (e.g., sanded and slicked outer edge). The nose of the cylinder arm will stop the shaped item from going any farther in. I recommend a large bobbin model so you can use #138 or #207 thread, depending on the total thickness to be sewn. Most shoe patchers can sew between 1/4 and 5/16 inch compressed leather.

My thoughts regarding sewing vinyl, Sunbrella and canvas are walking foot or bust. If you are serious about sewing these cloths, get a walking foot machine. A Consew 206RB-5 is a fine compound feed machine with a rotary switch for stitch length and a push down reverse lever. And, it doesn't suffer from the floating stitch lever syndrome like the LU-563 did.

My first ULS had every conceivable foot, including one with a blade on the bottom front. It cut a channel in front of the awl and the stitches were perfectly placed in it and were concealed. My favorite feet were stepping feet, but only on straightaways.

The Union Lockstitch machines were first unleashed upon the Earth around 1898, plus or minus a few years. The oldest one I owned was from 1910. These beasts weigh 400 pounds on a table and with a continuous run motor. The head alone weighs 250 pounds. The feed is via the needle. The awl comes down and pokes a hole that is 1 size larger than the needle. The needle comes up into the poked hole and the presser foot lifts. As the foot lifts the needle advances the leather. At the end of its travel a looper feeds the thread into a barb in the top of the needle. The needle pulls the thread down, then the hook lifts it off the barb and takes it around the bobbin. The default setup allows for constant stitching at 3/4 inch. It can tension any thread size as long as you have the proper needle and awl sizes. The bobbins are about 2.5 inches in diameter and 3/4 inch wide at the center. There are all mAnner of presser feet and throat plates available for the ULS. The maximum speed of the machine is 800 stitches per minute, or 15 per second. Running flat out on a long harness tug will shake the building. The moving parts slap and bang as you sew. This is not a quiet machine, nor one for a timid or inexperienced sewer. Simply moving it across the floor can throw it out of adjustment if everything isn't tightened down properly. A properly adjusted ULS machine sews the tightest stitch of any harness stitcher. The maximum stitch length is 4 to the inch. The bottom appearance is very close to the top, but not exactly the same. The machines can sew through plywood. They are not much good on anything woven, like webbing and have a problem sewing Biothane straps because the holes tend to heal as the awl comes up. I have owned two and am currently involved in fine tuning one for a new friend in Michigan.

That is basically correct, with one possible exception. When sewing #138 thread in hard leather (e.g., two layers of finished veg-tan), I use a #23 needle to poke a larger hole. This will allow the lockstitch knots to be pulled up with less stress on the take-up lever and cranks.

The O.P. hasn't included his location in his member profile. So, I looked up his geo-location details and found that is in Estonia. I doubt that he will be contacting Weaver Leather. @mihkel Please add your location to your profile so people will know that you are in northern Europe, not the USA or Australia.

Parts are definitely more available and cheaper for the Singer. I have a 211G156 and it is a capable upholstery machine.

Is there any chance you can take a larger picture?

What make and model machine did you buy? That detail will allow us to read the machine's specs. When sewing leather that is between 6oz and 9oz combined, #92 bonded thread is 50% stronger. It requires a #19 or #20 leather point needle.This is beyond what your plastic body domestic sewing machine can handle without great difficulty. Also, I don't think you will have an easy time finding a #19 or 20 needle in the domestic system HAx1. The walking foot attachments you are referring to are passive follow feet. They don't climb up and down layers and don't assist with the feed motion. They are made for quilters. A real walking foot machine, like the Consew P1206RB can sew up to 3/8 inch with up to #138 thread, using System 135x16 leather point needles in sizes up to #23. It has triple, or compound feed, ensuring that the layers stay aligned and new layers don't cause the feed to balk (if the lift is adjusted high enough to clear the new height). I have a YouTube video showing a real walking foot machine in action.

You need to start a new topic concerning your problem. This is an old topic. I am creating a new topic for you...

Both brands have excellent dealer support. The machines are setup and sewn off before being shipped. You won't go wrong with either machine.

Chinese improvements. Mao's Revenge!

This Pfaff 1245/1246 manual includes mechanics' adjustments after general setup.