Wizcrafts

Is it the bobbin thread or the top thread that is getting tangled? Post a picture of the tangle to help us diagnose the possible cause.

On your machine the cutout scarf over the eye faces due right and the ribbed channel faces due left. The needle must be all the way up in the mount and tight.

I have that model. It is a good light duty walking foot, cylinder arm machine. Mine is mounted on a U shaped table that I stand at. The machine takes a standard Singer G bobbin. I use mine with thread sizes 46 through 138, but mostly #92, using a #19 needle. I did have to lose the stock brushless servo motor and replace it with a rotary knob operated Family Sew FS-550s and a speed reducer. This combination lets me sew well under 1 stitch per second, up to about 10 per second at full speed. Plus, it has pull down reverse on the stitch length lever.

I apologize for recommending that you go there in person. I had no idea they had closed up their in person business. This is good to know.

Are you holding back the starting threads for the first two or three stitches? Failure to hold them back almost always jams the top thread in the shuttle.

Are there teeth on the feet? If so, ask your dealers about smooth bottom or knurled feet.

Your machine is only a dual feed walking foot, with a moving outside foot and stationary inside foot and needle. Your presser foot options may be limited. However, I found a dealer in Australia who sells the Protex brand.

Go to the dealer and ask to try out a few machines, with and without a needle positioner. You have a rare advantage being that close to the dealer. That way you will know which machine and motor combo suit you best.

I have the Techsew 2700, its lighter duty predecessor, and I like it just fine and Yankee Doodle Dandy. Go buy that machine! If in doubt, go try one out. Raphael Sewing has been a major industrial sewing machine dealer in Canada for many decades.

I tend to sew at between 5 and 6 stitches per inch. You won't filigree the leather at that spacing. However, with thinner thread and needles you can sew closer stitches, like 7 or 8 to the inch. A lot of this has to do with the shape of the needle. A slicing point, like the Schmetz S style slices inline and makes the stitches look shorter. It can weaken the seam if too close together. OTOH, a tri or diamond point produces a smaller hole that pokes rather than slices. You get a more topstitch appearance and can sew closer together before weakening the leather. Experiment!

The inner foot need to go all the way up to the stop. This should yield equal lift and pressure on both feet. If your machine has a separate adjuster for a spring on the inside foot, use it to get the right pressure.

Bravo! Now, check for excess movement in the presser foot mechanism. any free motion forward and backward translates into lost stitch length. That requires brazing up or replacing the feed motion cam that rides inside the ring on the bottom of the revolving bushing in the head.

The inside foot bar should have a narrow bottom area that the inside foot slides up onto. The foot should go all the way up until it hits the wide area and be locked in position with the set screw. If the feet were cast properly, the lift of each foot should match as they alternate up and down. Ideally, the inside foot should make contact with the feed dog at the moment the tip of the needle reaches that spot. If things are not matching up and you aren't getting the same amount of alternating lift from these feet, consult the manual for adjusting the motion timing of the inside foot. Or, buy another set of feet and see if they work better. If so, send the first set back.

I would be interested. I've been thinking about getting my own embosser for a while but the prices have held me back.

This machine should handle your 4/5 ounce seams with ease.

LOL. No they most certainly won't! You need System 7x3, 7x4 or 794 for that machine. The needles are 60mm long! System 135x16 are for common upholstery grade walking foot machines. I didn't know you are running a Class 4. This topic is about a Techsew 4800 and belongs to @Arturomex. You need to start your own topic.

I've been getting them off eBay (Organ brand System 135x16 titanium needles).

Some people are confusing the total foot lift/clearance under the manually raised feet with sewing capacity. Walking foot machines have alternating feet that have to move up and down to walk, This motion requires at least 1/8 inch over the material to walk. If you stuff 1/2 inch of material under the feet, just because you can, the feet will not alternate unless the material is compressible down to 3/8 inch. If they don't alternate, the feed will be erratic with varying stitch lengths and may even stall. Skipped stitches can be expected when you exceed the safe sewing capacity of any machine, including bottom feed straight stitch and zig-zag machines.

I use double sided 3M Leather Tape, sold by Wawak, to hold seams together for sewing. It comes in 60 yard rolls, in 4 widths: 1/4", 1/2", 3/4" and 1". Leather Tape is on sale this month. Get you some! Thank me later. While the tape is perfect and economical for edges, it gets expensive if you use it on large inside areas. It calls for Titanium coated needles to sew through Leather Tape and still may need some Goof Off on the needle, now and then. However, I haven't had any problems under the throat plates and have used this tape since at least 2010.

If that Eagle brand motor works like my Family Sew motor, the speed settings around the dial are the maximum motor speed, not the minimum. these motors start at zero and increase linearly as you depress the pedal. there is no ramping up to speed. There may or may not be enough turnover power at the slowest setting until one gives it about half pedal. But, mine all have a 50mm pulley and can keep a machine spinning a stitch or two per second. I am satisfied with my Family Sew motors. Regarding servos feeding reducers, that's the cat's meow. My Cowboy CB4500 is geared down 9:1 from the motor to the reducer to the hand wheel. I can sew at a minimum speed of watching grass grow.

Clean the hook and shuttle after sewing through Aquilim or other tacky glue. Use a dauber or cotton swab dipped in Goof Off to rub all of the moving parts that come in contact with the top thread under the throat plate. Use it on the needle when you stop to turn corners or start a new seam. I run into a similar problem sewing through 3M Leather Tape from Wawak and stick on Velcro. Wiping down the needle with Goof Off keeps it from getting fouled by the adhesive and closing the eye. If the problem gets out of control, try running your top thread through Goof Off, or liquid silicon in the lube pot if the machine has one. Magnetic lube pots are available for purchase on the Interwebs and from your favorite dealer.

Thanks Eric and Welcome Back Cotter!

Contact the dealer you bought it from and ask if you can do a motor exchange, or get the missing parts. Dealers often stock factory replacement parts for motors they sell. Those parts may be difficult for you to find as an end user.

My Family Sew FL-550s with a 50mm pulley meets that description. However, a lot depends on the diameter of the machine pulley. I use this motor on several machines and it has the most low speed torque on machines with larger top pulleys. The others need a speed reducer. I would say that if your machine has at least a 4" pulley you will be good to go with just this motor and its 50mm pulley. In the event this exact motor isn't available where you are at, try to find a Consew equivalent and buy a 50mm pulley that fits its shaft (I think it is close to 5/8 inch, or a metric equivalent). Just make sure the motor has brushes and a knob to control the speed.

Can this machine be fitted with a side feed folder? They work great on inside curves.