Wizcrafts

Have you been holding back the starting threads for 2 or 3 stitches? If not, the top thread will get double pulled around the bobbin case like you see in your photo. CLear the jammed thread, oil the race that the bobbin case revolves in, then hold back the starting threads each time you commence sewing. Also, the position og the lifting tab on the bobbin case is not standard. Check to ensure that the little tab on the bobbin case is positioned inside the cutout in the throat plate. If the bobbin case itself revolves, there will be trouble.

Ah yes, I can see it now... Wireless cards in sewing machines, downloading patches for firmware vulnerabilities and insecure open ports visible to hackers using the Shogun IoT scanner..

My mistake. I thought you misspelled the model number of the machine you were asking about. I was thinking it was a 29k70, which is a top feed only shoe patcher. To avoid tooth marks and sew patches onto shaped hats, you'll need a post machine (Example). These machines often have roller wheel feed , with some driven on the top and bottom. I have a walking foot Singer 168G101 post machine I sometimes use instead of my patchers. It definitely feeds better over seams.

Possibly. Contact Bonis Parts with the model and serial number.

Check these things first. Are you holding back the starting threads, or at least the top thread for a few stitches? If not, expect tangles underneath in the shuttle. Is the top thread staying centered inside the top tension disks? If not, wrap it around the top post upper and lower inline holes counterclockwise. Is the thread going around the bottom roller 1.5x and then coming up through the round thread guide, then through the hole in the check spring, then up to the take-up lever, etc? Make sure the bobbin tension isn't too tight and make sure the thread feeds through the bobbin tension spring without binding. A poorly wound bobbin could unwind or cross wind inside the bobbin case and cause thread to bundle up on the bottom of the work. Insert the bobbin in the case so it feeds clockwise.

I set up a local embroidery shop with a Cowboy patcher, model CB29BL, which is a long arm, big bobbin model, with a servo motor on a pedestal stand. This machine can sew patches onto sleeves, over pockets, onto hats and caps and onto flat areas. Normally a patcher can't sew very long before the bobbin runs out. But, since most patches can be sewn on securely with #69 bonded nylon thread, they do last a fair amount of time, especially the larger bobbin models. These machines don't sew as thick as a standard walking foot machines, but as long as the thicker seams can be slid past the foot, it will sew the patches on. I have two patchers in my shop and they get used about every day. BTW: You may see cheaper patchers come up on Craigslist or eBay, but those are usually either hand or treadle powered and old. I recommend buying a new machine with a servo motor. You are in business and It is a write-off. If you locate a used patcher (Singer 29k##, or Adler 30-#), test it first to make sure it has reasonable stitch length and is not missing stitches or needing parts.

The Juki DL-5550 needs some modifications to sew vinyl and plastic materials. They are explained in this dealer's video. Even modified for heavier work, this is still a straight stitch machine that needs to be run fast. I recommend looking for a walking foot machine, like the Juki DNU-1541

Most of the push button brushless servos I have or had start with a jolt at 200 rpm, but are cool and fairly quiet. Clutch motors I have run at 1725 rpm and throw heat and noise. I have no trouble feathering the clutches in. Just imagine if some developer, or a kit-basher was to incorporate an adjustable clutch into a push button controlled brushless servo motor! That would be interesting! The motor would spin at whatever maximum speed the user preset and the clutch would take care of feathering it in and out from zero rpm, just like the brush types, but with more torque at startup. Less heat and noise than a standard clutch motor and plenty of torque.

I've had brushless servo motors like that and replaced them with brush motors like the Family Sew FS-550S and before that, the Sew Pro 500GR. The motors that start at 200 rpm do so with a jolt. They also disengage with a jolt. I can't stand that. The motors I use now start up from zero and smoothly increase in speed. If I was doing production sewing I would use a positioner system, but I would not use servos that start up with a jolt.

Most leather sewing is done at really slow speeds, compared to cloth or vinyl sewing. Servo motors aren't as powerful at slow speeds as clutch motors (because they are already spinning at full speed). Adding a speed reducer slows down the motor to either 1/2 or 1/3rd speed at the output pulley. That pulley is usually very small, ~50mm, so there is another 2:1 or better reduction between the reducer and machine pulleys. We're talking about 1 or 2 stitches per second. If you have a steady foot and a smooth motor you shouldn't need a positioner to stop the needle where you want it. Another factor is that some programmable servo motors need to be specially programmed to work with a positioner attachment. A speed reducer can throw off the geometry. A positioner would be useful on a direct motor to machine hookup if the motor can't be controlled at starting speeds by the user..

Abdo, your IP address says you are a Rogers online customer. That is a Canadian ISP. I strongly advise you to add your location to your profile. It will help you get better targeted replies when asking about suppliers and machinery.

I am closing this topic here. It is being discussed in the Administrative area of the forum. Suffice it to say this expired certificate does not present an actual threat to anybody. It was a technical problem that caused a failure to automatically update the certificate. We hope to have the problem resolved very soon. I will be writing a tutorial to help people get past their browser warnings as soon as I have some free time.

Yes and it was supposed to be automatically updated, but wasn't. The owner of the forum is working on getting a new SSL certificate. Once this happens it will take a while for the changes to propagate across the Web.

If anybody out there uses a #9 or L-Classic, please chime in here and help my buddy with his #6/6.

It may be a Consew 206RB-something

People buying ancient Singer 29-4 and other models from the early to mid 20th Century find that out when they buy aftermarket gears that don't work.

It has a beefed up feed dog and bigger hole in the throat plate (for a #23 needle), a 5mm longer needle bar stroke, higher foot lift (to clear thicker stacks of cloth), plus more clearance around the hook for larger thread. It is still meant to sew fast and only in cloth (like denim), or light vinyl. The servo motors use less electricity, produce less heat and are easier for beginners to start on. The machine can sew slowly for a while, but must be run fast to circulate the oil.

You can find the diameter of commonly used bonded thread in this needle and thread chart.

All you are going to find in shoe repair shops are standard patchers, like the Singer 29 and Adler 30 models. They still have a minimum of 1" width at the nose. That width is needed to hold the shuttle assembly that contains the tiny bobbin in small bobbin patch machines. The only way you are going to find a sewing machine with a narrower arm would be a chain stitch machine and those are mostly post machines. A post machine can't sew lengthwise along the sides of closed pouches. There is one exception: The Alligator by Puritan Industries, which sews up the arm with a chain stitch. Last time I saw a price for a new one it was about $13,000. I would be riveting them over a steel bar, as my esteemed colleague also stated. I make phone cases and rivet along the sides. Rivets come in a variety of sizes, colors and even textures.

Used leather sewing machines seem to sell for more money in Canada than in the USA. If you can use and afford the machine, and it sews as designed, and it comes with some bobbins and needles, it is a good deal. OTOH, if it needs parts or professional servicing, it's likely overpriced. Make sure it will serve your needs and doesn't need obsolete parts.

I use #69 bonded nylon on wallet interiors and #92 when attaching the thin leather back to the interior. My wallets are usually well under 8 ounces thick along the sides and bottom. If I make a wallet that is at or over 8 ounces, I may use #138 thread. Almost any industrial walking foot machine can handle these thread weights. I refer to them as upholstery class machines. Visit any upholstery shop and you may find they have an old walking foot machine for sale after replacing it with a newer one. They run them hard and put them up wet!

I had to approve your post to unhide it. Anybody responding will have to wait for their replies to be unhidden. If you truly want assistance, please join the forum. As a member you can post this in the Leather Sewing Machines forum and other members can help you without waiting for moderator approval. Troubleshooting problems like you have can be time consuming enough without the hassles of waiting for approval of posts.

When I have to sew jobs like that I spread out the leather to force it to fit over the arm of my small bobbin 29k71 patcher. If necessary, wet the pouch in warm water to soften the sides. The only alternative would be to prepunch the holes and hand sew it with an Awl for All, or a Speedy Stitcher.

That's not all that can happen if the clearance is zero. I actually broke one of these lifting blocks on my Singer 29k71. Had to get a replacement machined locally.

I bought a box of prewound small patcher bobbins a few years ago. They unwind unpredictably with hard tension and tend to bind up without warning. I strongly advise you to wind your own bobbins. You can buy a dozen small bobbins and load them in your spare time. Get a couple extra shuttles and load them with freshly wound bobbins with a modicum of spring tension.