Wizcrafts

Try turning it counterclockwise. There are grooves on the shaft and a stud on the inside of the knob that rides between the grooves in the shaft. it is common for the grooves to chip or break over the decades since these machines were built. This makes it hard to not only remove the shaft, but to adjust the stitch length by rotating it. If the grooves are damaged, try using a combination of turning and pulling on the knob. I take from your mention of removing all the screws that you also removed the heavy duty spring under the cap screw inside the head, under the access plate and loosened the set screws on the opposite side of it. BTW: If the grooves are broken, there are no new replacements. You'll have to find another similar machine that has a good shaft to replace the bad one. Since this is also the main shaft, there are a lot of parts that will need to be removed and replaced. Alternately, just preset the stitch length in one position and leave it there.

I wasn't being polite to the spammer. I'm leaving this online in case they come back to see if anybody reacted to their one and only post.

A Teflon foot will help feed leather and vinyl. But, all it takes is one or two accidental foot drops, under spring pressure, onto the feed dog teeth to put an end to its usefulness. A better foot has a steel frame and steel rollers inside it. This foot feeds even better than Teflon. The next upgrade would be an actual industrial sewing machine roller foot conversion kit. This consists of a flip up foot with either a 3/4 or 1 inch diameter (sorry about the inches!) roller on ball bearings, a single row feed dog that's inline with the roller, and a throat plate to match.

@BellaBee To do the @ thing, type @username - noting that the username is cAsE sEnsiTive and there is no space after the @. If you do this correctly the member's username will appear under the typing. Click/tap on that highlighted name and the typing will become a link. In my case the link becomes @Wizcrafts

That post was spam.

@BellaBee It's beautiful, but is a bottom feed tailoring machine for cloth. Don't waste your time, or ruin the machine trying to sew leather over a couple of ounces thickness. To do that may require a roller or Teflon presser foot. It will likely be limited to T70 bonded thread, with a #110 needle.

Here is a video showing a synchronized binder in action on a properly setup machine.

Matt described how a 2 motion feed dog works. What he left out is that the reason some of these machines have a 2 motion feed dog is because they are intended to be used with synchronized binder attachments. The forward backward motion helps push the material into the edge binding to get a tighter lay, especially going around curves.

@Vladinard It would help you get better targeted replies if you would include your location in your forum profile.

That's the most beautiful Kingsley press I've seen! My two (M40 and M60) presses look like dinosaurs compared to yours. I love the sliding rack to extend it over the edge of the table. If you ever decide to sell it I've got dibs!!

Parts for Union Lockstitch Machines are dear.

You might have luck if you contact Campbell Randall in Texas. They have ULS parts and rebuilt machines. If they don't reply to an email, their phone number is (936) 539-1400 (Central Time). Otherwise, call Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines at (866) 362-7397 and ask if they happen to have an extra flywheel. As for motorizing it, the standard setup has a top mounted, 110v, continuous run 1/2 horsepower motor fitted with a double pulley. One pulley feeds the flywheel and the other drives the bobbin winder. The flywheel contains a routed conical clutch ring that (foot) presses against a cone shaped metalized material brake that drives the machine. It will take some major modifications to run it from a servo or even a clutch motor. I guess you could force the flywheel clutch to be permanently engaged and use the motor to power it.

You can find the date of manufacture of various Singer sewing machines, based upon the prefix letters and serial number, on Ismacs.

Try this online manual for the Singer 153 series machines Singer has been completely out of the industrial sewing machine business for a very long time. Your machine originally used system 135x7 (1901) needles, but, with a little height adjustment of the needle bar, can use readily available system 135x17 round point (cloth and webbing) and 135x16 leather point needles, available everywhere industrial sewing machines are sold. The machines uses the same G size bobbins as the Singer 111 series machines.

The loop is created when the needle makes its down/up/halt jog. But, the take-up spring exerts pressure on the take-up lever at this point. If the little paddle spring and the area behind it are badly worn the spring pressure will cause the loop to dissolve before the hook can pick it off. The original System 29x needles have no scarf above the eye. The current System 135x16 and 17 have a scarf. You can move the needle clamp to the right to get it closer to the hook than you can with a straight 29x3 or x4 needle.

Okay. I use #92 thread in my long arm, big bobbin patcher and #69 in the small bobbin 29k71. I have round, lr and diamond/tri point needles in every size. When sewing leather I use a leather point needle of some configuration. Most of the titanium needles I now buy are tri-point. They let the thread lay on top more than the slicing point needles do. But, you weren't sewing leather... Webbing is a woven synthetic fiber material. Leather point needles will slice and break the strands in the woven webbing. They are the wrong point. You should use 29x3 or 135x17 round points when sewing woven and cloth materials. Size-wise I use a #19 or #20 needle with #92 (T90) bonded thread. If you are using a #22, the eye is way to large. There won't be any resistance in the eye as the needle makes its down/up/down jog and the loop may dissolve before hook time occurs. You can counter this by playing with the settings of the barrel adjuster vs the top flat spring on the arm. When I encounter difficult materials that cause skipped stitches I try loosening the flat spring and cranking up the lift from the barrel adjuster. This is in addition to checking and tweaking the hook timing. If you have adjusted the timing perfectly and tweaked the take up adjusters and are still getting skipped stitches, replace the paddle shaped spring inside the needle bar.

Have you been holding back the starting threads for 2 or 3 stitches? If not, the top thread will get double pulled around the bobbin case like you see in your photo. CLear the jammed thread, oil the race that the bobbin case revolves in, then hold back the starting threads each time you commence sewing. Also, the position og the lifting tab on the bobbin case is not standard. Check to ensure that the little tab on the bobbin case is positioned inside the cutout in the throat plate. If the bobbin case itself revolves, there will be trouble.

Ah yes, I can see it now... Wireless cards in sewing machines, downloading patches for firmware vulnerabilities and insecure open ports visible to hackers using the Shogun IoT scanner..

My mistake. I thought you misspelled the model number of the machine you were asking about. I was thinking it was a 29k70, which is a top feed only shoe patcher. To avoid tooth marks and sew patches onto shaped hats, you'll need a post machine (Example). These machines often have roller wheel feed , with some driven on the top and bottom. I have a walking foot Singer 168G101 post machine I sometimes use instead of my patchers. It definitely feeds better over seams.

Possibly. Contact Bonis Parts with the model and serial number.

Check these things first. Are you holding back the starting threads, or at least the top thread for a few stitches? If not, expect tangles underneath in the shuttle. Is the top thread staying centered inside the top tension disks? If not, wrap it around the top post upper and lower inline holes counterclockwise. Is the thread going around the bottom roller 1.5x and then coming up through the round thread guide, then through the hole in the check spring, then up to the take-up lever, etc? Make sure the bobbin tension isn't too tight and make sure the thread feeds through the bobbin tension spring without binding. A poorly wound bobbin could unwind or cross wind inside the bobbin case and cause thread to bundle up on the bottom of the work. Insert the bobbin in the case so it feeds clockwise.

I set up a local embroidery shop with a Cowboy patcher, model CB29BL, which is a long arm, big bobbin model, with a servo motor on a pedestal stand. This machine can sew patches onto sleeves, over pockets, onto hats and caps and onto flat areas. Normally a patcher can't sew very long before the bobbin runs out. But, since most patches can be sewn on securely with #69 bonded nylon thread, they do last a fair amount of time, especially the larger bobbin models. These machines don't sew as thick as a standard walking foot machines, but as long as the thicker seams can be slid past the foot, it will sew the patches on. I have two patchers in my shop and they get used about every day. BTW: You may see cheaper patchers come up on Craigslist or eBay, but those are usually either hand or treadle powered and old. I recommend buying a new machine with a servo motor. You are in business and It is a write-off. If you locate a used patcher (Singer 29k##, or Adler 30-#), test it first to make sure it has reasonable stitch length and is not missing stitches or needing parts.

The Juki DL-5550 needs some modifications to sew vinyl and plastic materials. They are explained in this dealer's video. Even modified for heavier work, this is still a straight stitch machine that needs to be run fast. I recommend looking for a walking foot machine, like the Juki DNU-1541

Most of the push button brushless servos I have or had start with a jolt at 200 rpm, but are cool and fairly quiet. Clutch motors I have run at 1725 rpm and throw heat and noise. I have no trouble feathering the clutches in. Just imagine if some developer, or a kit-basher was to incorporate an adjustable clutch into a push button controlled brushless servo motor! That would be interesting! The motor would spin at whatever maximum speed the user preset and the clutch would take care of feathering it in and out from zero rpm, just like the brush types, but with more torque at startup. Less heat and noise than a standard clutch motor and plenty of torque.

I've had brushless servo motors like that and replaced them with brush motors like the Family Sew FS-550S and before that, the Sew Pro 500GR. The motors that start at 200 rpm do so with a jolt. They also disengage with a jolt. I can't stand that. The motors I use now start up from zero and smoothly increase in speed. If I was doing production sewing I would use a positioner system, but I would not use servos that start up with a jolt.