Wizcrafts

The one you are interested in is the Adler 30-10. It is a long arm boot patcher with a very small bobbin. I have a related machine: the Adler 30-7 that has a larger bobbin. These machines are for light duty patching and repairing jobs. Most users thread them with #69 or #92 bonded nylon thread. They max out at about 5/16 inch and are not a good machine for sheathes or holsters. Worst of all, they are top feed only and there are deep teeth on the foot. You should consider becoming a member here and reposting your questions in our Leather Sewing Machines forum. If you remain here as a guest, all replies have to await a moderator's approval to be unhidden. You won't have access to our private message system either as a non-member.

You can use Google to search Leatherworker.net for all discussions about a Landis 16. Or, use our own search box for Landis 16 (select "all words")

Do you have the correct needle system and is the rib on the left and scarf over the eye on the right? The shuttle has to pick off the loop on the inside of the needle to form a stitch. Is something causing the loop to dissolve before pickoff time? Look at your check spring motion and make sure it moves up as the take-up arm goes up, holds the thread taut until the needle reaches the feed dog, then lets go as the needle moves down below the surface. There are adjustments for the strength and range of motion of the check spring and they affect the quality of the loop.

Maybe the brakes are slick and need to be cleaned off???

Silence to questions about a particular brand or model is an indication that people on this forum have little or no experience with that machine. I would rather say nothing about something I know nothing about than let you know how little I know about the subject. I can tell you that having a dealer nearby who stands behind any machinery he or she sells is priceless and can offset the unknown. Get some kind of warranty and a promise of assistance when you run into problems.

Make sure the top thread is feeding solidly through the tension assembly and that the tensioner is not releasing until you raise the foot.

Check on the Weaver Leather Master Tools Cub web page. There are some positive reviews from actual buyers.

A few years ago, @Cobra Steve was mailing out variable density light filters that we could insert between the light source and the sensor in the brushless motors everybody was selling. The filters gave very smooth control of the startup speed if properly positioned (and if they stayed put). I don't know if he has any light filters left, but it might be worth inquiring. He owns Leather Machine Company (Cobra), an advertiser here with banners on top of our pages.

You must have a brushless, pushbutton controlled servo motor. Those are horrible for slow speed use. I discarded all of those and replaced them with brush servos that have a knob on the front to limit the speed. These motors start at zero and gradually speed up. The motors I now use come prefitted with a 2" pulley. This lets the typical machine to sew at about 1.5 stitches per second, depending on the diameter of its pulley. When I need even more slow speed control, I add a speed reducer (shown on same page as above linked to motor).

From my personal experience with sewing machines, just because a given needle bar and throat plate/feed dog will clear a #25 needle does not in itself mean that the shuttle or take-up/tensioning system can handle #277 bonded thread. I found that only the largest leather stitchers can actually handle this size thread efficiently and pull its knots well up inside the leather. I also learned that trying to force feed #277 or #346 thread to a machine that wasn't built with this in mind will damage it.

You should be able to open the faceplate and loosen the set screw or screws securing the presser bar to the lifting cranks and lower it until the presser foot makes contact with the throat plate. The best rotational time to do this is when the inside foot has just barely touched the feed dog. That's when the outside foot should still be in contact with the throat plate. Don't forget to re-tighten the set screw after lowering the foot!

I put a thin spacer inside the top of the stitch adjuster nacelle on my CB4500 and it helps equalize reverse stitches.

This is not the best machine for your tin projects. It is super heavy duty and would need to be "dumbed down" to properly sew thin seams with thin thread and thin, 2.75" long needles. You should be looking at light to medium duty walking foot machines, in flat bed or cylinder arm/with add-on table configuration. For flat beds, a Consew 206RB-5, or P1206RB, or Juki DNU-1541, or equivalent Cowboy CB1541 would be good choices. For cylinder arms, the Consew 227R, Cowboy CB227R, Juki LS-1341, Cowboy CB341. These all use thread sizes 46 through 138, top and bottom. Some can apply extra top tension to pull up #207 thread. They also need heavier duty presser foot springs to hold down the leather while pulling up heavy thread knots. Later on, if you need to sew thicker than about 20 ounces, or use heavier thread than #138, you can buy a CB4500. It uses thread sizes 138 up to 415.

@Silvershadow What Bob and Glenn are telling you about the height of the feeder is due to the fact that your machine was made for use with edge bias tape binder attachments. The feeders only move forward and backward on binder machines to help gather the bias tape and push it tightly against the edge of the material. Some binder machines have a smooth feed dog, but yours has teeth. Methinks those teeth will interfere with the normal feeding of leather, pushing and pulling instead of just pulling. That's why they need to be at, not above the top of the throat plate slot.

These are medium duty sewing machines. While they can sew up to 3/8 of an inch, that probably doesn't include worked and hardened veg-tan. But, 12 ounces should be fine with either machine; even 18 ounces. After you cross that general thickness it becomes harder to hold down the leather to form a stitch. Also, these machines can't handle #277 thread, which is required for three layer holsters. The most they can handle would be #207 thread on top and #138 in the bobbin. That means that the strength per stitch is limited by the smaller thread. In this case that would be 22 pounds test. Holsters and sheathes with fillers should be sewn on a harness stitcher, like a Cowboy or Cobra heavy stitcher. They can tension #346 thread and hold down 3/4 inch of leather.

It is a patcher, for sewing patches on vests, repairing loose thread on boots and shoes, fixing tabs on purse straps and other light leather work. It can sew up to about 1/4 to maybe 5/16 inch of light to medium temper leather with #69 or #92 bonded thread. The bobbins are very tiny and don't hold much thread in sizes over #92. When new, or rebuilt, the stitch length maxes out at 5/inch at about 1/8 inch, dropping to who knows how short at 1/4 inch. It really depends on how worn the feed motion mechanism is. Did you see a Sutton patcher for sale, or already own one?

Your photo is showing the back side of the machine. We need to see the front to identify the make and model. Take a close-up showing just the head, in sharp detail. Look for a tag with a model, or a manufacturer and photograph it. Aside from that, all I can say is you have a patch machine on a treadle stand.

Here you go: https://d28lcup14p4e72.cloudfront.net/197085/3767937/SingerModel29UFAManual.pdf

I would advise you to join the forum (it's free), then post this ad in our Marketplace sub-forum, under the sewing equipment > Used section. You will get more replies and they won't need to be approved before being unhidden. PS: Either way, please include your location! We have an international user base.

You have a photo of the back side. You'll get better responses from a frontal view of the head, preferably a close up of the head portion.

Twenty ounces of Herman Oak carved, dyed and finished is probably on the hard density end, just not the hardest. What I consider medium density would be apron suede, or biker's chap sides, or perhaps saddlebag leather. I have had some bridle leather that was very easy to sew, while other cuts were tougher. Sometimes there are remnants of rawhide along the backbones on sides and double bends. Rawhide itself has a hard density. Garment leather has a soft density. The real test of density has to be determined by testing a sewing machine with the largest size thread and needle combination it can handle. If the foot pressure spring can't hold down the leather as the needle and thread come up out of the top side, or if the knots can't be pulled inside the layers and completely hidden on both sides, it is insufficient for that kind of sewing and the density of the leather. I hope this explanation helps a little. Important facts: There is a HUGE difference in the foot pressure to hold down between 5/16 and 3/8 inches of veg-tan leather versus 8 to 10 ounces of the same type of leather. There is a big difference in the amount of top tensioner spring tension needed to pull knots up inside 24 ounces vs 10 ounces with thread sizes 138 and up. For a given machine to happily sew 20+ ounces of veg-tan with #207, or #277 bonded thread, it must have really strong springs and very beefy crank shafts, take-up lever and bearings on load bearing parts. In order to penetrate 20+ ounces of veg-tan leather will also require a very high motor to machine pulley ratio, possibly involving a speed reducer between the motor and balance wheel. The feeling I get from your inquiry is that you intend to sew finished, medium hard to hard density leather stacks easily reaching and probably exceeding 20 ounces. This is the high end of the typical sewing capacity of upholstery grade machines. They are not built with such usage in mind. Upholstery leather is relatively soft at the thicknesses usually encountered in making seat and sofa covers, or carrying bags. I therefore recommend that you take a serious look at the Cowboy CB3200, as it won't be over-stressed sewing 24 ounces of veg-tan with #277 thread, using a #25 leather point needle. This thread is a good match for 3/8 inch of leather, having 44 pounds of breaking strength per locked stitch. If you end up having to sew jobs under about 6 - 8 ounces, search for a used upholstery grade walking foot machine. Upholstery shops often sell off old walking foot machines when the buy new ones, or downsize. These machines can sew from a few ounces to almost 3/8 of an inch, but only with up to #138 bonded thread, which only has 22 pounds test. I wrote an extensive article, pinned near the top of this forum, describing the type of sewing machine you need to sew leather. It makes a good read and may help you choose a most suitable machine. Note, we have a section here called the Marketplace, which has a section where people can sell their used, or rebuilt sewing machines to other members. You should peruse that section to see if anybody in your area of the World might have a suitable machine for sale at a price you can afford.

I have a Singer 42-5 in my (now closed) leather shop. I use it to sew chaps and heavy upholstery, like motorcycle seats. I actually bought a handful of bobbins from somebody in Australia. I forget who. I am able to fit exactly 5/16 inch under the feet. Not one iota more. It feeds very reliably and has sharp teeth on the feed dog. I also got a good supply of authentic Singer leather point needles for and with the machine (System 88?). Those needles are now irreplaceable. Anybody with a 42-5 who doesn't have the proper needles may have to lower the needle bar to use System 135x16, which will reduce the maximum sewing thickness to 1/4 inch.

You may be right. It's been a year since I changed pulleys on a mounted motor. Let's just say "a new v-belt to mach the different pulley."

Clutch motors are easy to tweak via a bolt on the front left, in front ot eh output axle. Backing it out gives more slack before she engages. Then you can adjust the spring on the right end of the control lever to push it up more or less. Of course, the position of the foot pedal can be adjusted to suit your foot or shoe profile. Finally, a very small motor pulley will slow it way down. I recommend a 50mm or smaller machine pulley and a longer type 3L belt to match.

I'd say it is very similar to a Consew 206RB-5. The bobbin is on the left end, accessed by sliding the bobbin access cover plate to the left. It uses M style bobbins like the 206 and has the same needles and presser feet. One difference is that the Fabricator is optimized for sewing canvas, vinyl and Sunbrella, not leather. The maximum thickness is about 1/8 inch less than the Consew 206.