Wizcrafts

This could be due to the leather lifting with the needle. Watch the leather as you sew and see if this is what's happening on the upstroke. If so, you're going to have to increase the needle by one size or add more foot pressure to hold down the leather. The overlapped thread knot presents a lot of mass to get pulled up in the needle hole. A larger hole reduces the force needed to bring the knots up. If increasing the needle size and/or foot pressure doesn't solve the skipped stitches, the check spring throw might need tweaking. Try lowering the stop bracket under the spring so it travels further down. A marginally damaged needle point might also cause skipped stitches, so replace it just in case. BTW, have you tried using the low plate with the narrow slot? That reduces the height you have to deal with and may eliminate the problem completely. That's my go to throat plate for difficult jobs when the feed dog is removed. I only use the holster or stirrup plate if I have to clear a formed shape that drops down close to the left edge and would make hard contact with the standard throat plate or the nose of the machine or the end cover plate. I actually ground and sanded off a bit of steel from the left side of my flat slotted throat plate to clear drop shapes better.

Place it in a for sale ad in our Marketplace > Items For Sale > Machinery > Sewing and Stitching > under either Used or New/Refurbished, depending on its condition. You might get more replies under Used.

Yes there is! Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines can service your machine. The Neel's model 5 is now known as the Cowboy CB2500. TISM is the primary dealer of the Cowboy brand in the USA. Your machine is a clone of the venerable Singer 45k series.

The datasheet is technically correct about #69 (T70) thread. However, in real life this thin thread will be problematic to get right. The springs in these machines are extremely heavy duty. The top tension would almost have to be run at next to nothing to keep the knots from sitting on top. The bobbin tension spring would have to be cranked really tight to balance the knots. This will pucker thin or soft materials. Further, thin thread requires thin needles, which tend to deflect and break, unless you don't mind a larger than normal needle hole from a larger needle. You don't absolutely have to remove the feed dog and standard throat plate if your leather is stiff enough to not get pushed into the big lot and hole. Perhaps they can find you a Juki feed dog that has a smaller hole. The difference between us is that I am in business and have different machines for thick and thin work and thread sizes. I don't try to make my huge harness stitcher sew wallets because I have lighter duty machines that are better suited to that work. To answer your question about the larger thread, only a 441 (Juki TSC-441) clone, or Adler 205-370 or above will handle #346 bonded thread. None o9f the upholster class machines will tension and clear that size of thread. If you are at all able to visit a dealer, do so. Bring or send in your leather and ask them to sew it on machines they are offering to you. They might do that if they have time. Be prepared to spend twice as much so you can get two machines, possibly at a package price. One could be a light duty walking foot and the other the CB3200 equivalent. I will be busy for the rest of the day. Good hunting!

P.A.; Read my blog article that I linked to in my first reply. It explains what you have to go through to dumb down a 441 type machine. If you do that it will be capable of sewing with T70 thread using a #110 needle, or T90 thread with a #120 or #125 needle. The feed dog may have to be removed and a narrow slot throat plate installed in place of the standard plate. This makes it a dual feed machine that is less likely to let soft thin leather gets pushed into the huge cutout for the standard (enormous) feed dog (which also has a huge needle hole). Sieke may or may not offer that throat plate. Theoretically, one can operate a 441 in dumbed down mode most of the time, then smarten it up for heavy work. The conversion takes between 10 and 20 minutes. Be prepared to replace thin needles often as they are easy to deflect and break I would stock up with extra packs of #110 and #120 needles if you use them in a 441 machine. The reason is that they are about 65mm long and the hook pulls the thread to the left as you sew. The stronger the bobbin tension, the greater the needle is deflected. Personally, I would avoid using T70 thread and a #110 needle in a 441 machine unless the work is soft temper and thread tensions are very light. This would minimize the deflection caused by the machine itself. When dumbed down, my Cowboy CB4500 can hem denim jeans with T90 thread, but the needles often break when it reaches the big side seam (if I forget to hammer down that seam). These machines really don't come into their own until you install a #160 needle and T135 thread, top and bottom.

You have discovered the dilemma that almost every leathercrafter encounters as the ponder a sewing machine. I went through the process of elimination years ago by buying various sewing machines for different thicknesses of thread and material. What I and most others have learned is that there are really a minimum of two classes of machine needed to properly sew things from 1mm up to 20mm. The thinner materials, ranging from say 2mm up to 10mm need a gentler mechanism than thicker stacks of leather. This includes all of the moving parts, as well as the thread tensioning springs and presser foot spring that has to hold down the work as the needle comes up. This type of machine, in walking foot form, is referred to by me as an "upholstery class machine." These machines have triple feed for positive feeding of fairly heavy leather seams that are often 8 feet long on couches and sofas. The machines are designed to sew properly with thread sizes from #46 on the small end to #138 on the big end. This calls for a range of needles from #80 through #160 (EU/Metric). Some machines are built with heavier take-up parts and springs that can tension and clear #207 thread. As for #277 thread, this is very large and difficult for upholstery class machines to clear around the hook mechanism. It is really too much for most machines except those that have been beefed up by the manufacturer, or modified by the dealer. The clearances have to be increases fot the hook, sometimes leading to problems with thinner thread and thinner needles. Some of our advertisers have done these modifications. Since you are in Europa you should probably contact Siecke and ask them about this matter. They may have a suitable machine that is already beefed up that can sew from 2 up to 10mm with #207 or 277 thread, on top and bottom. They may tell you that a certain machine can handle the heavy thread on top only with thinner thread in the bobbin. Otherwise, you would have to dumb down a 441 clone, which I have written about here.

Could you please post a close up picture of the flat ground #230 needle?

I believe that the Cobra 26 uses standard Singer 111w155 style walking feet which are sold by virtually every industrial sewing machine dealer in the World. Cobra sells presser feet too. Have you contacted them to get a double toe presser foot?

Normally I would say no. I use #19 needles with #92 thread, or a #20 in difficult/dense materials. But, what have you got to lose by trying a #21 needle? I think that a #22 needle will poke such a big hole it will look bad on top. Another way to tame loose stitches is to tighten both sides so the thread is pulled tighter against the surfaces. In that case you would probably want to use an S point inline wedge needle that gives a submerged leading and trailing edge. That is a Schmetz design that is available for your machine in compatible System 134-35. They are pretty much the same length and shank as the 135x16/17 needles. I checked with Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines and he has those needles in stock in sizes 16, 18, 19, 21, 22 and 23. Unfortunately, he hasn't got any #20. Those Organ needles you mentioned have a contradictory designation. System 135x17 is a round point cloth needle. Diamond points are usually leather needles and are System 135x16. But, who knows anymore? You could try some actual System 135x16 needles with different point shapes. PS: if you tighten up both tensions you may also have to tweak the check spring travel and its position in the curved slot. Overly tight top thread tends to pull hard going around the bobbin basket and will make a snapping sound on the way out. The check spring position can feed a little more slack in the top thread to compensate for this, while still maintaining the required thread tension on the take-up stroke. Just keep that in mind.

It looks like the needle is a fair distance away from the hook. Try moving it to the left until the hook just misses the scarf. When you actually sew material the needle gets pulled to the left. If it is already a little distant from the hook, it is farther away during sewing.

Chuck, the stitches might lay better if you can lap skive the leading and trailing edges of the double leather that transitions to/from a single layer. This would give the machine a couple stitches to adjust to the different thicknesses. Another thing that may help set the stitches is to increase the foot pressure to press the layers together harder. Unfortunately, this will increase the foot marks and bubble through on the back side. You can also try using one size larger needle. This will affect the top tension because it will be easier for the take-up lever to pull the knots up. This may be the easiest change you can test. Needle shape can also affect the stitch quality.

Our member Uwe (pronounced oo-vah) makes custom table attachments for cylinder arm machines @CowboyBob Kovar has some table attachments for sale.

No good deed goes unpunished. To be fair to Charlie, I do give preference to our paying dealers when a machine they sell is being discussed. Those folks keep the lights on here, paying 3 to 5k a year to advertise here so you can enjoy free membership where people around the World share knowledge and expertise about leather work and industrial sewing machines. Without their support and that of our "contributing" members, this server would go dark in a relatively short time.

Have you tried Hoffman Brothers in Rosemont, Il? They are a long time industrial sewing machine dealership.

I see a needle position synchronizer on the balance wheel. This machine was used in a production setting. What you need to look at is whether it has a two or four motion feed dog. If the feed dog moves back, drops down, moves forward and raises up, it is good for some leather sewing. If it only meves forward and backward and doesn't drop, it is a binder machine. A binder machine can still feed unbound material, but the feed motion may shorten the stitch length and won't help feed the material.

Wow!

Here is a service manual for a Singer 29k71 patcher. 29k71-71-73 Service Manual and Parts List.pdf

The machine head will arrive fully adjusted, oiled, needled and threaded, with a sewn test stack of leather under the feet. The machine head will be in a separate box on the pallet from the pedestal stand. Any accessories you order up front will also be in the machine's box and protected from impact. There will be an assembly guide, or even a DVD. You will need to assemble the table and mount the machine before you can use it at all. Do not turn any knobs or screws on the machine head at this time! The head itself is very heavy and you will definitely need assistance mounting and securing it to the pedestal table. The table should be extended to your preferred operating height before the head is bolted on. It will be very difficult to move it afterwards. If you raise or lower it from the default setting you'll have to reposition the connecting rods and chains to the motor and foot lifter arm. Once the head is mounted onto the table and the v-belts properly tensioned (for about 1/2 inch deflection in the center), follow the thread path, photograph it and memorize it. Open the cover plate on the left end and you will find the bobbin case that has a spring loaded release tab. Pull on the bobbin thread to see what the factory bobbin thread tension is supposed to be for that size thread. Note, that the top thread will probably be cut off of the actual spool it was on. You will have to re thread the machine from a fresh spool once you have assembled the thread stand onto the table. There are some basic techniques you need to learn and keep to heart. The first thing every industrial sewing machine operator has to learn is to physically hold back the starting threads for the first 2 or 3 stitches. Next would be when to try to pull out the work and thread after raising the feet. This happens on the take-up stroke when the take-up lever is close to the top on the upstroke. There is going to have to be hands on time to bring you up to the comfort level to sew actual projects. This is time you will spend practicing sewing straight lines and turns, then sewing parallel lines and reversing. Test strips will help you learn how to adjust the top and bobbin thread tensions for different size thread and needles and different thicknesses of leather. So, yes there is a learning curve. But, it usually happens fairly quickly and you should be on your way in a couple of days after setting it up. You can always contact the seller for assistance (this should be your first option since it is irrevocably included in the price of the machine) and we have many experienced owners of Cobra, Cowboy and Techsew machines in this forum. Many of the owners of these big machines, known in the trade as 441 clones or harness stitchers, had little or no previous experience before buying their machine.

Confirmed! This is a rookie mistake. Most folks just order a new needle bar and go through the process I outlined, or even take it to a dealer. Thou shalt not over-tighten the tiny top screw in the needle bar thread guide! It has nothing to do with securing the needle on most Singer sewing machines and their clones. It is only meant to hold the thread guide in place so it doesn't flop around as you sew.

I just changed the needle bar on a Singer 211G156, from which your machine was cloned. If the parts they copied are the same, here's the sequence that I used to do exactly this operation. WARNING: THIS WAS NOT MY FIRST RODEO. PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGES THAT MAY ENSUE FROM FOLLOWING THESE STEPS! Unthread the machine Remove the faceplate cover from the left end of the head. Remove the needle and its set screw Remove the small screw that secures the thread guide to the needle bar, then remove the thread guide Hand wheel the balance wheel until the needle is at its lowest point (BDC). Use a flatblade screw driver to loosen the screw that should now be residing in the opening in the needle bar frame, near its lower end. The opening should clear a 1/4" wide screwdriver blade. Don't remove the set screw, just loosen it a couple of turns. Try to turn the needle bar by hand to loosen it, then start raising it up.. A trick to raising a semi-stuck needle bar is to handwheel it up, then grab it above the needle bar rock frame with smooth jaw pliers. Eventually, it will move up until it hits the top of the head. Hand wheel until the needle bar moves under the hole in the head, then use a plier to force it up and out of the head. When you are ready to install the new bar, oil the bar and drop in in from the top, aligning it with the clamp that you loosened the screw on. Then continue pushing or tapping it down from the top until it extends down below the head about 1.5 inches. Rotate the needle bar so the holes for securing the needle and thread guide are on the right and the indent in the bottom of the bar faces you in front of the machine. Gently tighten the clamping set screw to hold the needle bar. Reinstall the thread guide and its tiny set screw, which goes into the top hole in the thread guide and needle bar. Be careful to not overtighten this screw or the head may break off leaving the threads stuck in the needle bar. This will cause the thread guide to flop around as you sew. Insert the needle set screw in the bottom hole in the thread guide. Start it by hand to avoid cross threading it. Insert the largest needle you have or will use. In most upholstery machines this is a #23 needle, then tighten the needle set screw. If your largest anticipated needle will be a smaller size (under #23), use it. Lift the feet with the hand lift lever. Unscrew the throat plate and set it and the 2 screws aside. Aim a good work light into the space between the hook and the feed dog. Hand wheel the balance wheel until the needle reaches BDC, then moves up 3/32", or so. It should be over 1/16 and under 1/8 inch up from BDC. If the hook is inline with the center line of the needle, the hook timing is still on. If the top of the eye of the needle is below the point of the hook and the hook is within the cutout scarf area, lock down the needle bar set screw for all you're worth. If the eye of the needle is not just below the tip of the hook, loosen it enough to move it by hand into the position where the eye is a bit below the hook and the tip of the hook is inside the scarf. Lock down the needle bar set screw to hold this position. Reinstall the throat pate, ensuring that the little tab on the bobbin case fits into the cutout in the throat plate. Thread the machine, insert the bobbin you were using and test to see if the hook picks off the top thread and carries it around the bobbin basket when you hand wheel until the hook passes the needle and the take-up lever pulls the threads up. The top thread should go around the bobbin basket without any snapping or binding then come out the hole in the feed dog smoothly. Also, take note if the hook passes by the needle without making contact with it! If it hits, read my notes below. Reinstall the faceplate after oiling the moving parts and oil holes inside the head. Hopefully, you are good to go at this point. If the hook hits the needle, it must be moved to the right, or the deflector shield needs to be gently pried out to push the needle out of the way. Normally, if the hook is in a working machine the distance and deflection are already set. However, when you change needle bars the lateral position of the needle can change just enough to allow the hook to hit the needle (this just happened to me when I changed needle bars in my Singer 211). Moving the hook is for another discussion. Hopefully that isn't necessary in your case. You can also take the head to a sewing machine dealer and let them do this troublesome work and time it for you. I strongly recommend this if the hook needs to be moved, and/or the hook timing is out relative to the eye of the needle on the upstroke.

I'm pretty sure that the 25% Chinese Goods Import Tariff would probably be charged, whether or not the invoice is below $800. I know our dealers have to pay it on shipments from China.

Please report back on how you like it and what temperature range it requires, plus the cooling time when it sets.

I dug around and found this Customs Brokerage firm who has some very good information on their home page about what one will need to do to import machinery of any kind from China. It is both bewildering and eye opening.

There has been some discussion in this forum among members who tried importing sewing machines directly from China vs buying in one's country from an authorized dealer. Most agreed that by the time the machine was delivered, any savings was either minimal or zero after paying shipping and handling fees, getting insureance against damages, faxing documents, paying Brokerage warehouses and the cost of Customs and box inspections. One fee most folks overlook if they aren't in the habit of importing machinery from China is the 25% tariff on the landed price. In addition to all of the costs and fees, once the machine arrives you become the dealer for the purposes of assembling it, setting it up, timing it and performing any necessary servicing. Do not expect technical support from the Chinese seller. If a manual is even supplied, it may be in Chinese, or Chinglish. Worse yet, if it gets damaged in transit you will have to file photographic documentation with whomever you paid to be the insurer and hope for compensation. Should you want to return it to the Chinese seller it will be at your expense.

Sellari's make hard stitching wax that is melted in heated wax pots on Landis sole stitchers and McKay insole stitchers. It is listed on page 59 of the Rockford Leather catalog. Other shoe repair suppliers probably carry it or another brand.