Wizcrafts

That's definitely not according to Hoyle! Something has come loose or unscrewed, or out of its bearing.

I was out by about $800 on the price of this machine. They sell in the mid-3ks. This sub-model NH is different than the simple N or NS. It is factory modified to use the longer System 190 needles, has a longer stroke and sews up to a full half inch with #207 thread, top and bottom. Below is a quote of the specs compared to the regular 1508N and NS... The H in 1508H means very heavy duty, with longer stroke 190R Needles which allows for thicker fabrics and higher foot lift, a bigger hole in needle plate for thicker threads, and bigger teeth on the feed dogs which allow better feeding on thicker fabrics, etc compared to 1508N and 1541N that take shorter stroke 135x17 needles. N Stands for the Color: White H Stands for Extra Heavy Duty 10-15% heavier duty than the Standard NS Version, with a longer needle and higher stroke.

Cowboy/Hightex makes programmable pattern stitchers and we have 2 Cowboy dealers and the USA Rep on this forum.

No. Those are domestic cloth sewing machines with bottom feed and very light duty take-up components. They max out with #69 bonded thread which is just good enough to hold wallet interiors together.

Read this sticky article for good information and to eliminate unworthy machines. It defines the type of machine you need to sew serious leather projects. You will soon learn that there is no single machine that sews thin and thick equally well. If most of your work ranges from 10-12 ounces to 32 ounces, a CB3200 will suffice. That is its best range. You can sew with bonded thread sizes 138 through 346 on that machine. Consult this needle and thread chart to gain insight into how thread sizes equate to actual diameters. As for the question about other brands than our advertisers, there are several good brands out there. The Artisan Toro machines are very good. There are needle and awl harness stitchers that cost an arm and a leg but lay down a stitch to match hand stitching. Campbell-Randall and Union Lockstitch machines are the best of the class for needle and awl harness machines.

If you get screws with it, find out their size and pitch, then buy a matching tap and pilot drill bit.

The OP isn't aware of how lockstitches are formed yet. Here is an animation showing how the top thread picks up the bottom thread as it goes around the bobbin and draws the tow threads up between the layers. The way lockstitches are formed requires enough material over and under the knots to conceal them (aka: bury the knots). First, the needle must be wide enough to open a hole large enough for the overlapped threads. That may be 2 to 3 times the diameter of the biggest thread. Then the thickness of the material has to fully bury those overlapped knots. That is often 4 times the size of the knots. So, a 1mm diameter thread requires a needle about 3mm diameter and the material/leather would have to be at least 6mm thick. By comparison, when hand sewing an over/under saddle stitch, a 1mm thick thread will look beautiful on both sides in 4 to 6 ounces of leather. That's because there are no overlapping knots to deal with.

I have a TS 2700. It is a fine walking foot machine for thread up to #138 and no more than 3/8 inch seams.

I strongly recommend that you read this handy thread and needle chart to see the sizes of thread you are saying are too small. By my reckoning, .55mm is a little bigger than #207 (T210) bonded thread. If that is 50% too small, the closer size would be either #415 or #554. These are equivalent to 6 and 8 cord linen thread. #207 is close to 3 cord linen. Now that the desired thread sizes are defined, it's time to narrow the field of available machines that can handle those sizes. Right off the bat, remove all tailoring and upholstery class machines. Gone! These max out with between #69 and #138 thread. Some high end Jukis and their clones can manage #207 on top and one Juki can handle it both on top and in the bobbin (LU-1508NH: about $2600). But, that is still 50% too small for your projects. So, what class of sewing machine can actually handle #415 thread? That would be the 441 class. This is based on the Juki TSC-441. It is similar in specs to the discontinued Adler 205-374. It also includes some famous and very expensive needle and awl harness stitchers. I will link to a few examples below. These are the types of sewing machines you need to sew with 6 to 8 cord, or #415 to #554 bonded thread: Juki TSC-441 (bonded T410/#415 max) Adler 205-374 (bonded T410/#415 max) Adler 989 ECO (bonded T410/#415 max) The Cowboy CB4500 (bonded T410/#415 max) The Cobra Class 4 (bonded T410/#415 max) Techsew 5100 (bonded T410/#415 max) The Artisan TORO-3200 or 4000 (bonded T410/#415 max) Cowboy Outlaw hand cranked leather stitcher (bonded T410/#415 max) Boss hand cranked leather stitcher (bonded T410/#415 max) Campbell-Randall Lockstitch (#415 bonded, or 8 cord waxed linen) Union Lockstitch Machine (#554 bonded or 8 cord waxed linen) Landis 3 harness stitcher (obsolete) Landis 12 series sole stitchers American Straight Needle sole stitcher Frobana/Pederson hand cranked sole stitcher Junker and Ruh hand lever sole stitcher

It would help if you put your location in your profile. Anybody interested in that chainstitch machine would want to know where in the World it is located!

The Consew 206RB-5 is a leather sewing machine for thicknesses not exceeding 3/8 inch and thread sizes not exceeding #138. It is fine up to those limits. Personally, having sewn many double leather belts and more holsters than you can shake a stick at, I use a Cowboy CB4500 for that kind of work. It uses thread sizes 138 and UP, with thicknesses up to 7/8 inch. I have a several medium duty walking foot machines for lighter, thinner work and thinner thread. In case you are wondering about how thin you can sew on a CB4500, or its little brother the CB3200, I have hemmed jeans and chaps on mine. There is a trick to it though. You remove the throat plate and feed dog and install the flat slotted plate instead (to prevent the cloth and soft leather from getting pushed into the feed dog hole and its rectangular slot). Then fit a #20 needle, thread it with #92 bonded, or #105 polycore jeans thread and stitch away.

Zach; You should keep in mind that all posts and comments made in the Help Wanted forum are hidden until a moderator approves them. I am going out for the rest of the day leaving one roaming moderator to find time to approve posts.

That is not possible for guests. Only members can use our PM and Email features. Your options are to either expose your contact info in your post, or join the forum.

I've been using Family Sew FS-550s servo motors sine around 2013 or 14. Never had any trouble with them yet. The motors from this dealer have a 2" pulley as standard, which slows it down and adds torque.

From the description in their ad, you are responsible for what happens to the machine after you receive it. It is drop shipped untested in a factory sealed box. You will have to handle any adjustments and repairs at your own expense. There is likely no support offered by the reseller.

I have only good experiences in my dealings with Cobra Steve and his associates. They have always been quick to reply and have done me many undeserved favors.

Absolutely NOT! Those needles are waaaay too short and won't even reach the throat plate. You need needles that are about 60mm long.

Maybe the builders forgot the felt. Contact your nearest Cowboy dealer to see if they have pre-cut felt circles for the bottom roller.

The lower roller doesn't move very much, nor very fast on these machines. As long as it isn't actually binding, leave it alone. If you do add a felt washer, make sure it doesn't interfere with the check spring.

Your machine is basically the same class as a Cowboy CB4500. I own one and have adjusted the hook and needle timing several times. Zero the stitch length lever first. Remove the System 328 needle and install a 794 needle. Loosen the needle bar clamping screws. Adjust the position of the needle bar to place the 794 (7x4) eye in the same vertical position relative to the hook as the 328, that the same distance up from BDC. The typical lift would be about 3/16" from BDC and the hook would intersect about 1/8 inch above the top of the eye. Fine tune as necessary to get the best pickup of the loop. You can test with thread to see if a decent loop in formed and if the hook picks it off in its midst. Lock down the needle bar screws when you have the best pickup at zero stitch length. Hint: Keep the System 328 needles in case you have problems with needle deflection in some difficult project. In fact, get some in smaller numbers, like #19 and #20, for use with thinner thread, like #92. Shorter needles deflect less than longer ones of any given diameter. It should only take about 10 minutes to swap needle systems once you get the hang of it.

Yea Team!

On all of the 441 type machines, the bottom "disk" is really just a roller with raised edges. It is a carry over from the ancient 45k series that ran waxed linen thread. One winds the top thread around the roller disk between 1.5 and 2 turns. This gives some fine control over the upper tension. It gives the check spring a good back pressure to work off of. But, the bottom roller does not replace the top tension disks. It augments them.

If the check spring is not able to bottom out all the way to the stop bracket's lowest position, the coil spring that returns it must set be too light. There is a nut on the back of the housing where the check spring shaft is mounted. You'll have to wrangle a really narrow wrench behind there to loosen the nut, then turn the split screw until it pulls the check spring all the way down. Tighten up the locking nut and set the stop bracket as needed. Don't be afraid to try different angles to get more travel.

There is a trick you can try that uses larger thread on top and thinner thread on the bottom. In your sample, you seem to like #277 on top. Tyr this. Load #277 white or straw thread on top. Install a #24 needle. Load the bobbin with #92 or #138 black thread and tighten down the bobbin tension spring. Back off the top tension disks to let the bobbin thread pull the knots down low, but inside the flesh side. If you use black thread on the bottom, the visible, semi-buried black knots won't need a Sharpie to bring them out visually. Adjust the check spring as necessary to keep the top thread taut.

I was trying to answer the topic with only a few minutes left before I had to leave for work. Now, that is SEWING! Kudos!