Windom Leather

I just got off the phone with a gentelman who would like me to refurbish his saddle bags for his bike. It is made of canvas with a leather back and flap. I haven't seen them yet. But he would like the leather freshend up and the canvas redied. He uses these a lot and are faded from the sun and weather. So I need to figure out how to redie the canvas in short order and I thought I would ask here first. So any of you ever had to redie canvas before and if so what is the best way to do it? Thanks in advance Will

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The 3/8 straight blade that came with your kit will suffice. Just need to make sure and strop it often. Then practice a lot on scrap pieces. Do a search on here for swivel knives and for the blades. There has been a lot of info posted on this subject

Thanks Bruce for your comments on this subject. I myself am in the market for a machine right and if it wasn't for these forums I would have no clue on the subject. So I would have to say thank you all for being here

Cowboy316 I'm glad it worked out for you. Like I said in one of my earlier posts I hadn't any luck with it but I'm trying to apply it to dry leather too. Maybe that's the problem. Ill have to try it on a cased piece and see how it goes for me there. Btw how big was the piece you dyed? Any chance you could post a pic so we all can see?

Hey electrathon, I agree with you and I feel your frustration. Cuz I believe we go to the same Tandy store (off sandy blvd?) great people in that store. Donna helped me tremendously when I got started and to this day. She has always done right by me when I've had a problem with a product not living up to expectation. For example the pink crystal rivets turn to clear in less than 6 months when exposed to sun light. She made good and gave me some to replace them and said she would let the higher ups know. Now if what you said above is true it just may fall on deaf ears which is unfortunate for Tandy because if I'm going to bling out tack or belts for customers I'm going to have to find a different supplier of crystal rivets because if they are still going to fade that won't look good for my business. I like shopping at that store for a lot of the same reasons as you and to add that I also like to put my hands on a product or tool before I buy. That's just how I roll. That reminds me I need to make a trip over there. I need a few things.

I'd have to say I'm with neel on his one! I haven't been on this forum for very long but I have learned enormous amounts of info to help me better myself and the things I make and I believe that is the intent of this forum. Its for the folks that don't know something to ask the question and have it answered to the best ability of the people that do know and to let everyone know all the different tool, product and machinery choices out there. Yes everyone and everything has there merits and drawbacks and that's why I believe we are all here and that's to get better at what we do. I don't know the back story behind Steve and artisan. Maybe Steve got the short stick from them. I don't know. From the short time I've been here it sounds like steves a really great guy and what I've read, a lot of people like the artisan machines. I personally don't know anything about them. I haven't seen there machines yet. I guess what I'm tryin to say is we are here to get the best info we can to make an educated decision on the tools, products, machinery and the things we make. So let's stop the fat mouthin and just discuss the high points and low points of the questions that need answerin.

I know USA has been mentioned a lot but I haven't seen washington state. east side down by the big river. Where it is actually dry and not to be confused with Seattle and the rain there on the west side

What I have been using is 8/9 backed with 6/7 unless I'm doing a breast collar and turn the ears to the front then I reverse it and use the 6/7 on the front. Hope this helps.

I've decided to stick with the fiebings. Never tried the angelus. But I may have too just to see. And I have used the eco flo all in one and Im not too impressed. Hard to get rid of overlap lines and you still have to use another finish over it. I use a cotton cloth to apply. Is there a trick to that stuff or is it just the way it is?

Welcome. You will find this place to be able to answer any of your questions and help guide you along your way as I have found.

Thanks Luke and Bob. I will definately look for that book. I'm a sponge for info and that is why I'm on this forum. Always lookin for tips and tricks to improve my quality of craftsmanship. Bob. That's a heck of s trick I will have to make me some of those. That will save me a heck of a lot of guess work when makin any belt which I now have 4 to make. Yes ill post some pics when I get them done. Thanks again for your help and am glad you guys are here so us newer guys can pick your brains. Happy stampin Will

I'm gettin ready to build a new gun rig. How do you determine the length of the belt to get it to hang just right like John Wayne does? And if its a double gun rig do you want it to hang low on one side like that?

I had that same deal last year with a dbl shoulder I got from Tandy. I cut into a good portion of it and in about center of the hide was a section about a 1/16" white layer that was pert near impossible to cut with anything. Went through I think 6 strap cutter blades before I figured out what was wrong. It was almost like a hard plastic. It looked to me like it was rawhide but I'm no expert. Maybe someone with a larger knowedge base than mine can chime in.

I use a black sharpie on mine. A year and a half of regular use and hasn't rubbed off yet.

Very cool. I like the pattern on your stuff- a map? never would have thought of that. good lokkin work, please share more.

Nice job Tim, I would have to agree about trying to pad the case some. But other than that outstanding, I like the pattern you used and everything looks smooth. Thanks for sharing. Will

That is a great find ray. Im a sucker for old equipment like that. When I had my woodworking shop I was always finding cool old tools to play with, makes me sad the old shop is gone looking at your find.

Thats very cool and nice! way to go

I too bought a set back when I knew less than I do now. They just sit in a drawer. They really don't do well on leather and not the best quality. I would rather spend the money on a quality set of punches than spend the time it would take to make those serviceable. Unless I need a half punch then they get the grinder.

That is a very nice job storm. Do you hang it off of anything or do you lay them in a drawer or something?

Thanks rayban. That was my whole intention, to make it match and blend in like it belonged there. The only other thing I wanted to do was to stamp to match. I dont have that stamp yet and wife wanted it done "now". I think it turned out pretty good for a rush job.

Jim, Thank you for sharing these with us. They do look like fun to make and to use. Ill Bet if a guy used one he'd be all the talk around the fire Will

Troy, that is beautiful work, You have inspired me to dig out the one sitting in the back of my shop and give it a try. Keep up the nice work and hope to see more of it in the future Will

Thanks again Bruce. I too like the idea of going with the smaller shops. I will probably give willards a call and start with them and work my way up to the big boys. I also have nothing against nrs and smith as my wife and I both have dealt with them on several occations and have no complaints. I just like to help out the smaller shops.