JLSleather

Not to give the wrong impression ... a brush is not "better" because it's double action. I have seen some art work done with a Paasche model H far beyond anything I've ever seen on this site . Years ago, I knew a guy who used only the H, and i had only the VL. He was no artist by any stretch, but that model H let him spray a "fade" all day long (in fact, it was about all he knew). Really, the difference in using one versus the other is not much. Both siphon feed (sucks the dye up from a cup), both push a button down more or less to vary the air flow amount. Beyond that, the amount of dye is controlled in the VL by pulling the lever back more or less, and controlled in the H by turning a screw more or less (almost like a small hose nozzle). I've seen people use both types very well A word of disclaimer -- I've used these brushes for years, with no trouble. I still use them, because if something gets 'boogered', I can get parts (needles and caps) for them right down town. And in the end, I use them because i know these models. But there are thousands of versions out there, and many are quite good.

Josh makin' saddles, likely can find a use for bellies for lining something, or wrapping something... etc. I have used a bit here and there for belt LINING, small front pocket wallets, things which won't get any hard use or stress.

$10 / foot darn tootin' fer elephant! Pieces that size, we'll be watchin' fer yer new line o handbags

NO NO NO... tell me i aint slower than old n slow!!! Ron.... HELP

I admit it.. I have never held a loaded gun upside down to see if it will fall out. Don't see me doin' that later, neither If you can take your 'dummy" gun, upside down, and give her a good snap of the wrist, yer good. It's not that technical, really. For an OWB holster, I figure if I can step in the truck without it crashing, all is well. Standard practice is to make them just a hair tight, and let the customer decide how tight he / she wants it. I send 'em a folded business card (lengthwise) ... tell 'em just use that as a shim if they want to loosen it. Set it up against the slide, insert both in the holster, wait a bit, pull it.. the holster will be "looser" by about 1/32" (ish). Or, if you really want to hit the sweet spot for each customer, get some rubber hose and screws and make them adjustable.

There are some free ones on my site. 100% money-back guarantee... you don't like it.. full refund.

Just FYI As a rule, I have found about a $30 difference between backs and sides. Since I wouldn't pay $30 for the belly, I don't order it. Plus, if you're shipping 10 or 20 (or for some people 50) sides, that's quite a bit of weight to pay shipping on for leather I don't use. Ironic, maybe -- every time this comes up, I offer to buy sides "next time" if someone wants to buy the bellies AT COST. Never had anybody take that up, though ..

Wickett & Craig makes some nice leather, too. Just sayin'. And you are correct... the best leather is along the spine of the animal, in the butt end. The rest is "downhill" from there, with the belly being the bottom of the totem. Either HO or W/C will sell you "backs".. no belly leather. Even then, I generally cut off and pitch the neck area.

I like the black one better. But then, I'm not a big fan of basket stamped, so ...

Now that's a legitimate, specific question! Nobody? This is a GOOD question which I have never seen addressed in any video. I would think that many people wouldn't mind paying for that video, if it really did explain that. This is the type of video I was referring to.

Unless tha's a mirror, then good looking rig TWICE

Assorted ...

That sounds about right. I often use chrome tanned calf or goat for the 'innards', but some 2/3 (ish) veg will work too. And if you get the hankerin', those chaylor inserts sold at SLC are actually pretty decent. Oh, the checkbook goes the 7 1/4" way... and the extra 1/4' is to allow for the fold and the thickness of the checkbook.

Apparently not digital one Found one I started forever ago, never finished! Yep, you can add pockets. I don't like those big heavy weapons some call a checkbook.. 4/5 oz lined with 4/5 oz.. is a club, not a wallet I can tell you that the outside piece is 7 1/2" x 7 1/4". This will fit a checkbook without being 6" out of the pocket.

This is what I use. Cheap (you can get them cheap at hobby lobby or other places). WOrks good. The glass doesn't get stained (dye doesn't penetrate). They don't tip.. you'd have to want to tip it. And they seal, so once you have your color mixed, just put the lid on and it's ready for next time. Keep in mind, they're glass, so if you knock it off the bench, teh "non-tip" is moot ... http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Paasche-Jar-w-Cover-Gasket-3-oz-H-193-/331228464871?hash=item4d1ec146e7:g:oAEAAOxyEqNTlgRS

De nada Remember to get an empty bottle for mixing the dye and thinner. I use a glass bottle and an eye dropper. SOmething not prone to tipping ...

Well, long as we're commenting (crap, I aint gonna git nuthin done taday )... I don't call that butchered.. I'd call that 'amended' -- looks good! I'm actually not a fan of a "reinforcement panel" on teh front of a 50/50 pancake (it's not doing nearly as much "reinforcing" as people say, unless it wraps around). Still, a guy could do some basket stamp without the panel. This one is stitched at the top and bottom because it's lined (with natural goat). The stamp is used INSTEAD OF teh panel.

Not stain.. DYE. Reduced with .... [drum roll] .. dye REDUCER Like I said, nothing fancy needed (though you will want a good brush, not that junk you often find at leather suppliers). I use a different supplier, but using teh store you mention, yo'd want: https://www.mainelineleather.com/collections/liquids/products/fiebings-leather-dye-4-oz?variant=279098406 https://www.mainelineleather.com/collections/liquids/products/fiebings-dye-reducer-4-oz https://www.mainelineleather.com/collections/liquids/products/fiebings-tan-kote-4-oz And a brush can be had from art or hobby stores. Red sable hair is the classic, but some others may work.

Oh, that was done with chocolate leather dye from Fiebings, with a small brush. Full strength in the background areas, thinned about 30:1 on the floral design (roughly). Then covered with a coat of Tan-Kote when the dye was dry (next day). Oh, and by the way - that's not my design. You can get the pattern for that one in Stohlman's holster book.

I thought it looked like one piece, but tough to be sure without seeing the OTHER side of the pouch. As is, it looks like they stitched down the fold. Looks like Joon typing at the same time. It looks like his design is correct.

Actually, my name isn't JL (it's Jeff). The name on the page is J L S not JL's But which page? Are you looking at teh holsters? If you click on it, it should have a caption telling you what it is.

I use leather dye, and seal with either Tan-Kote or Resolene. That's bout all i use. I have never liked antique. Don't like the look it gives -- messes up perfectly good leather. I've seen some really great carvings basically ruined with it. Common sense question, though -- WHY would I want to buy another product, to prevent or "resist" the antique (meaning 3 products) when I could just use a brush to put the dye where I want it in the first place? Even just using dyes, a bazillion combinations. cut to the short version... on my site are some "examples" of leather I've done - none of it has any antique, "resist", or lacquers. http://www.jlsleather.com/gallery/more-leather/ EDITED TO ADD: I was talking about the antique FINISH so many seem to laud. Sucks I have used the Fiebing's antique STAIN on occasion. And i have tried the antique DYE, but didn't care for it.

Well, I don't think it's 'so bad'. I'm not a fan of basket weave (i think it's way over done) but the color works. When I posted those patterns, I wanted them to be useable as-is -- but i never intended for everybody to make them 'just like that'. Idea is, a new guy can make that holster and gain some experience. And the next guy can use that design as a starting point to make his own design. Just FYI -- a 1/4" thick belt works in a 1/4" wide slot just fine How does the end look? In the pic, it looks like the pistol could have seated a bit deeper (to teh stitch line under it).. maybe the stagger in the stitch line was just a tad early?

What... NOBODY carvin' that in leather yet !@#!@$!

This is sitting in the tree across the road today. Wing span over 4'. My daughter's pups not been in a hurry to go outside