JLSleather

That one is 8/9 oz. Sorry, should have said that with the pattern I've been known to add a 2/3 oz liner, but the 1911 is a bit narrow profile, and so it looks more natural to end up with about 8/9, so a fella might use 6/7 and line with 2/3 for a TOTAL of about 9.

Yeah, sad that it's such a chore to get consistent quality in leather these days. Shouldn't be that difficult. "A" grade should be "A" grade (well, really). Some variation in hides is to be expected, but that's WHY leather is graded. If I order a "B", then next time I order a "B" I should get basically the same thing. A scratch in a different spot, or a wrinkle where the last one wasn't .. fine. But one hide that firms up just fine, then a hide that drapes over the edge of the table like a cloth and covered in fat wrinkles? And they're BOTH "B"? Uhm, no. I've said before, I don't mind PAYING premium as long as I'm GETTING premium. But price difference isn't THAT severe (a couple exceptions). Seriously, if a good-looking, quality hide is $8/ft, and the one I DON'T want is $6/ft, what's the point of "saving" money? Not worth it to me to cut around bad spots, weak points, and scars just to 'save' $50 (which, you won't anyway, since throwing out the bad spots increases the price of the usable leather anyway). I don't go to HO and buy 20 sides, because I don't want to have to control the humidity and keep it from drying out before I get to use it.

I actually hadn't considered the sight crossing the stitching row, but you make a valid point!

Me, too, Vaalpens. No cookin here 'cept the beef I'm having when I'm done for the day. Using HO leather, by the time it's thoroughly dry it's quite firm enough. Now, I can see the exception being what Lobo is talkin' about a few back - when you have 50 rigs / week goin through... tough to wait on those to dry. If you do a handful / week, that can be done just like any other project.... carve it, set it over there while you work on something else. Color it, put it over there for a while ... etc. I have a holster for a Glock sitting in front of me right now what's purdy firm, no bakin'. No need to shoot anybody - feller gits outta line I'll just whop 'im with this holster ....

So, you didn't like the FREE one over here? http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=55674&hl= 1911 5" I don't know how many 'clones' it will suit, but I know for a fact it's a nice fit on the Colt, Springfield, and Rock Island Armory with 5" and no rails.

http://www.deepwatertack.co.uk/html/bleed_knots.html

That is correct . for size, men's and womens measured the same way. Over there, perhaps you swap CM for IN, otherwise no difference.

Not so much any more, but 'back in the day' the girls used to thread their belt the other way - like shown in the picture. S'pose the same way their shirt buttons are on the other side. For the measurement, it doesn't make a bit of difference. But, if you have LETTERING on the belt, or a design where the top needs to be the top (not reversed), then which way you thread it will matter. Don't think so? Take anything printed, and flip it 180° ... This is the reason the belts have "men" and "women" right on them. I've been that route .. where somebody wants a name on a belt, but forgets to mention that the girl is wearing it with a trophy rodeo award that needs to be worn in the direction of the "man" belt. Also been there where the guy thinks he should get a new replacement belt because after looking at the pics, he didn't realize it was important that he's left handed and wears his belt the other way (like the "women" one). Even after all this has been discussed, you'll STILL have one here and there who gets it wrong and thinks YOU should 'take care of it"... OH, I didn't say before, so if it matters, I make belts with 5 holes, 3/4" apart, and 6" past the last hole to the tip. Unless requested otherwise...

Chief has it about as "down" as you can get it. We have a picture we attach for how to get your size right. We have been known to mail you a strip with holes, you just tell us which hole suits you. Still, people lie. They have a tape measure, and they got your 'measuring strip', but they send you the size off their jeans anyway. Oddly, I find the guys are worse about this than the girls. Or they like the way THESE jeans fit, so that MUST be the right size. I can tell you, I have "34" jeans that I can't get on any more, AND I have "34" jeans that would fall off if not for a belt. Size on the clothing means nothing. And yes, it needs to include the BUCKLE. The ONLY time we want a measurement that doesn't include the buckle length is if we are replacing a belt you already have and you are re-using that SAME buckle. Here's a picture we send, which you can use or not as you see fit. Often, people call or write with MORE questions, which is fine. When they ask a question about a 'heel bar" buckle,at least we all know what we mean - all talkin' the same language. Long as the question isn't 'we gave you the wrong size .. can we have another belt for free?"

This is good looking stuff, George. As a self-professed pig, I can tell you that this year, you are the only person I have recommended (other than myself or this chubby girl here). Don't know if they purchased or not, but I did send people to view your holsters when I couldn't get to them here. We like your look. That said, I would'a liked to see the brown model colored on the inside (and inside the belt loop) like the other. Personal preference is all. I like the way your reinforcement piece not only allows the stitched channel but ties together like it belongs there (doesn't look like an "add-on"). One question, if you don't mind (no offense taken if you'd rather skip it). Why the retention screw? Customer request, or standard for the gun model? Oh, you might shave. Your avatar changed.

Yeah, s'pose it's just the signs o' the times. Usedta be, feller got old enough he went to work. Even if he didn't 'feel like it'. Nowadays, everybody is 'marketing' and 'networking'. All of it seems a bit "sensitive" to me. Fella I never seen asked me at the saloon one night -- Hey, ya gotta dollar? to which I replied "yes, yes I do. Know why? Cuz I got a JOB". and then left him standin' there alone. My Dad worked. I worked. My boys will work. Anybody wanna ask me what I think YOU should do?

Apparently, I'm the dissenting opinion on RJF. Only ordered once, and if this is what they ship - then I wouldn't do it again. Open the package and it didn't look bad, but start to cut it and there's another story. I don't want to go through all that sending it back. I don't want to do a bunch of 'discussing' about it. Not a high-dollar order, so just gonna call that a relatively inexpensive lesson.

The 17 (and assoc) and the 19 (and assoc) are the SAME gun, except the barrel length. As far as molding holsters, the only effective difference is that the 17 is 1/2" longer on the barrel end. A holster molded with the 17 will "snap in" a 19 just fine - just that the 19 will set back 1/2" from the business end...

Swing arm clicker press? ? ?

In case nobody else does, I for one appreciate your integrity. You want to give a good product at a fair price - which is commendable. These days, it's "popular" to jack up the price of basically anything (including 'poo'). Then, instead of actually IMPROVING the product, or maybe PRACTICING the craft, you just get on facsbook or tweetie and spend the time you SHOULD have been perfecting with trying to convince people that poo is wonderful, and your poo is better than someone else's poo, and everybody should buy this poo! After all, my poo COSTS MORE, so it MUST be "better" poo! So, for everyone who actually wants to make a QUALITY product - one worth buying - thank you.

No chubby girl fingerprints on this one (which is good). This pattern is older than we are, and been layin around the shop forever. Finally couldn't take it any more and had to make one, just cuz it was there. No order for this rig, and in fact don't even have the gun to fit it with Oh, that would be the 6" Colt Python. Still, that was kinda fun.

Middle one. Just a color preference, really, though I admit I've never been big on conchos and "spots" (looks a little 'sensitive' to me). Still, nice lookin' rigs

Well, it sounds like a 'non-answer', but the length for the initials would depend on the initials. I generally add 6" to the "tip" end past the "middle" hole. In the book you mentioned, Al suggests this for when using two 'keepers' - I just do it all the time. Also, I add 3.5" on the buckle end past the fold (generally) and use 3 snaps, regardless of how many 'loops'. Makes for pretty simple math -- you need a strap 10" longer than the "size". Now, since you already have that book, then you already know that the buckle length can throw most of that out the window.

Talk about stickin' a foot in yer mouth. On the phone with that gal from the leather store - on about rifle slings. Somewhere in there orderin' stuff, I said that some people want the sling stitched at the ends an some foks jus wanna screw. Uhh... ya know .. . that aint nuthin like what I was tryina say .....

Those your pics? Just wondered if that was yours posted over there at custommade.com ? Google found them pretty quick... http://www.custommade.com/holstersheath-combo/by/alamocustomleather/ http://www.custommade.com/holstersheath-combo-2/by/alamocustomleather/

The problem will be that if you grind enough off the round side to form the diamond shape, it will then be off center on the handle and all of your holes will miss the mark -- like misaligned sights on a gun. Yes, that's a joke. Point is, it's just not that critical.

Been a while since i used the W/C, but the carving leather - my opinion - is a bit 'stiffer' than HO. Either can be softened a bit, but I LIKE the firmness. But, I also like Royal Meadow (about the only thing they carry that I will actually use). I buy most of my 3/4 in this. But, I recently ordered some leather from rjfleather.com that has a similar texture and feel. I haven't carved any as yet, so can't really say if it tools the same. Same feel, though... they have an ad at the top of this site.

For weapons that small, you might check over at the blue gun store. I'm sure they are available other places, too. This style (that loops back) would be a bit hard to accidentally "yank" off of the belt. This would be a concern for me if grabbing a gun that light in a hurry -- some of those little safety-pin looking spring clips can come right off, leaving you holding a holstered gun. And, since you seem to like the trigger covered, that might be bad in a rush situation ... say like two guys running at you with ball bats -- just ferinstance http://bluegunstore.com/metal-holster-clip---lot-of-12---clip6-07-1-1-1.aspx If, on the other hand, these holsters are for wearing at the range, maybe doesn't matter which clip ...

If the TOP thread is "tight" without any pressure on the top tensioning, that sounds like an issue with your BOBBIN tension (pulling the top down hard). Increasing the top tension should LOOSEN the top thread. Ahh.. maybe I'm misunderstanding your issue...

Anybody got some pictures of TOOLED or FORMED leather from RJF? I just received my first order from there this morning. Leather isn't bad looking, and feels fairly firm. Haven't cut into it as yet, so can't speak for the tooling / forming. These are shoulders, so you might expect more wrinkles than in a back or a bend. I ordered 8/9, 6/7, and 3/4, as a 'test' order. The color was a bit darker than I prefer, but I can live with it (I really like that stark contrast in color, as in the pic attached - which was done in HO leather). Still, for the price, this is all usable leather. No significant scars or brands, no holes, the weights are right (this seems like a no-brainer, but I have received hides from other places that was 'okay' leather, but thicker or thinner than what was stated) The back side is clean and smooth (though I'll reserve comments on density until I actually cut / carve it). The ads at the top of this site reflect a price other than the one I was quoted. Perhaps those ads are old? No minimum order I'm aware of.