JLSleather

Yep, educated guess says that was designed for the 27 - agreed. But, as that chubby girl says -- a 5-gallon pail will hold your pistol, but that doesnt mean it FITS. Red .. wasn't the 57 a .41 cal?

Etsy is a strange place. I did a search earlier today and found a couple of people selling very basic, very simple projects that cost $3 to make for $50 range. And selling HUNDREDS of them. You couldn't GIVE me one of those things (thank you anyway). And right next to their listings, someone else with the SAME item, in the same (pathetic) color, done the same way -- none sold. No accounting for it that I can see, but then - not really my concern. Make what you like to make. Try to keep in mind that over there, you're dealing with people who are often shopping for cheap plastic jewelery. It's almost nonsensical to even list anything leather over there (though I know a chubby girl who does).

Actually, I have a piece of plywood I've been meaning to put some brad nails in to hang these things. Meaning to - as in haven't as yet I got some on the bottom shelf, which is officially where they would "belong". And some on the dye / finish shelf because they needed to move for a minute when I wanted to cut up that side. And a few on the desk because I've been re-working some patterns. And two on the table next to the bench, since those patterns have been re-worked and I want to test them in cut leather (theoretically soon-ish). Yeah, it's that bad.

That's a tough one to call. The frame size is close, and they're both .357M, with the underlug. Problem is, different makers will uses different 'fits'. With "mass produced" holsters, often made with a loose (ish) fit, so they can be used with more models. Bianchi used to make a leather holster that was stamped on teh back for S/W "K" models and Colt "I" models, which I assure you are NOT the same. Where did you get the pattern for the 686? It's like this... You and I both make a holster from that pattern. You are in the habit of stitchin' 1/8" in from the edge, and only up the edge. Your 686 drops in. But I do mine stiched 3/16" in from that edge, and I stitch the top (mouth), preventing stretch. That 686 will go, but not a 'drop in', and perhaps the Ruger doesn't go at all (I've never held a GP100, so I'm taking Jeff's word at this point that the ruger may be a bit larger). One point to make that may help with this. There is ALWAYS somebody recommending Stohlman's "how to make holsters" book (including me). In that book, there is a pattern for a carved western style holster for a ".357 magnum Smith & Wesson". I've made that holster, and I can tell you it fits the 686 nicely. But, when that book came out, the 686 didn't exist yet. You'll see this a LOT .. people advertising holsters for a ".357" or "fits a S/W .38" which - of course - means nothing if you have any idea how many models that covers. BEST thing, if you don't have the guns or dummies, maybe measure the thing with a caliper. If they measure the same, then they'll work the same. Perhaps Rob over at blueguns.com can tell you, or if you have one someone could probably give you specs on the other.

Your machine will sew 1/4" thick material fairly easily, though I wouldn't put it through much heavier than that. Pretty sure you can go up to #23 needle and 207 thread.

PURdy Did you dye those edges at all, or just burnished? Either way, this is a good-lookin piece o' cow!

There are a lot more people making holsters these days than there was even a couple of years ago. You can watch them line up. You'll have a few loyal people who will likely want to come back to you when they need another rig. And some will buy it because they don't see a reason not to buy that one, and hate to shop, thus they buy the one they're looking at right then. But as a rule, something should make it stand out. If we all get some HO leather, dip it, and stitch it with 277 thread, then there's nothing there the next 100 guys can't do just as well. What's the difference? It becomes then, largely a price war. Oh, and can't forget the occasional fool (as in "fool and his money") who buys occasionally because they want to buy something - does't really matter what it is. But, that's hardly consi

For the barrette and bracelet type thing, I don't know why that should be a problem. I buy backs in the heavier weights, because I don't have much use for small pieces of anything over about 6 oz leather. But, I do buy sides in 3/4 (and occasionally 2/3), as I can use the lighter leathers pretty much. Bellies certainly have more stretch than the higher portions of the hide. Still, this leather is fine for items that aren't extensively tooled, and don't receive a lot of stress. Doing the math, in US dollars, a 25' side at $7.15 is $180. The back from the same hide is $150-ish, assuming the back is about 18 feet. So, that belly is costing you $30 (or, about 4.50/ft). So, if you have use for it, might as well take it. Any lining that is glued in, it's fine. It makes a nice piece to set stitching machine tensions. Test your dye color before throwing it on the 'real' project. Even after using bellies for all that, I still have a box of "scrap" that never goes empty. But, it's cheap, so ...

We usedta call the longer ones "bar snaps" and the shorties were "jiffy snaps". Comes with both parts.

That's actually broken down further than I'm willing to go. With belt leather, I'll take a bend, that I figure costs me about $125. Measurin' across the bend, forget the length (which is likely in the 55-65" range) I measure (example) 25". So, that chunk costs $5 per inch of width. These numbers are picked for easy math, but they're reasonably close. SO THEN: A 1.5" wide belt costs $7.50 of the belt bend. Since it's probably lined, and the veg tanned lining costs about the same, then the veg leather total is $15.] Dye, glue, and snaps MIGHT be a whole $1. Truth is, changing the needle for stitching costs about as much as all of that together so I don't even calculate it. 15 mins in the stitcher. I'll saddle stitch it if requested, but otherwise I'm zippin' it through. Add the thread, and a new needle, so another $1 (which is generous). Oil and finish, because some OCD char will insist this costs money ... $1 (which is EXTREME). Total cost, 1.5" lined belt $18.00

Tough to note the burnishing with a single stamp on dark leather, but ya gotta admit that's a nice crisp impression!

Oh, and don't go out without mentioning the "hagglers". Well , you have this price listed, but I'll give you $________ Seriously, do I look like I need lunch money?

I note a lot of people seem to have difficulty determining what their actual cost is. Personally, I question the original posts 'guestimate'. $100 for the leather? At $10/ft (which should get some VERY nice leather) that's 10 feet. For a pan seat? Well, enough ... Chief is onto something. As the saying goes, "fair market value is what you can get". If the customer is willing to pay it, then that's the price. Personally, I look for quality materials crafted with actual talent. If you're not selling those, then no amount of speeches about how many hours you put in will 'rescue' your sale. Bottom line, if you purchased the materials, they are then YOURS to do with as you see fit. I once sold a belt for $300 to a guy who was tickled pink. Next guy said he would NEVER pay that for a belt. I asked what he would pay, and he said maybe half that. Other "crafter" (I never did think much of his work) said 'you can't do that'. So I sold a belt for $8, just to show that I CAN do that. Rather like the commercial -- crunch all you want, I'll make more

I have the VL too. Well, several of them actually (too lazy to switch tips back and forth). I think sometimes I'll try another model, but not until these are worn out. Darned things just won't STOP! Pretty much indestructible. Been meaning to try spraying finishes with it for years, but still haven't actually done it. Still, they spray spirit dyes jus' fine. Larger bag painted with VL#3, smaller clutch with VL#1.

Works jus fine that way

You're limited on the colors, but if your project is going to be one solid color, and that color is available - then why not use it. Saves time AND labor, so cost difference should be made up just on that. Long as you're getting leather that works. Personally, I don't like to store more than I need to, so I'd have to have an order for a BUNCH of items in that color to make it worth my time (and money). Having said that, I don''t use much (rarely, though I do get some). I don't make much that is one solid color.

That one is 8/9 oz. Sorry, should have said that with the pattern I've been known to add a 2/3 oz liner, but the 1911 is a bit narrow profile, and so it looks more natural to end up with about 8/9, so a fella might use 6/7 and line with 2/3 for a TOTAL of about 9.

Yeah, sad that it's such a chore to get consistent quality in leather these days. Shouldn't be that difficult. "A" grade should be "A" grade (well, really). Some variation in hides is to be expected, but that's WHY leather is graded. If I order a "B", then next time I order a "B" I should get basically the same thing. A scratch in a different spot, or a wrinkle where the last one wasn't .. fine. But one hide that firms up just fine, then a hide that drapes over the edge of the table like a cloth and covered in fat wrinkles? And they're BOTH "B"? Uhm, no. I've said before, I don't mind PAYING premium as long as I'm GETTING premium. But price difference isn't THAT severe (a couple exceptions). Seriously, if a good-looking, quality hide is $8/ft, and the one I DON'T want is $6/ft, what's the point of "saving" money? Not worth it to me to cut around bad spots, weak points, and scars just to 'save' $50 (which, you won't anyway, since throwing out the bad spots increases the price of the usable leather anyway). I don't go to HO and buy 20 sides, because I don't want to have to control the humidity and keep it from drying out before I get to use it.

I actually hadn't considered the sight crossing the stitching row, but you make a valid point!

Me, too, Vaalpens. No cookin here 'cept the beef I'm having when I'm done for the day. Using HO leather, by the time it's thoroughly dry it's quite firm enough. Now, I can see the exception being what Lobo is talkin' about a few back - when you have 50 rigs / week goin through... tough to wait on those to dry. If you do a handful / week, that can be done just like any other project.... carve it, set it over there while you work on something else. Color it, put it over there for a while ... etc. I have a holster for a Glock sitting in front of me right now what's purdy firm, no bakin'. No need to shoot anybody - feller gits outta line I'll just whop 'im with this holster ....

So, you didn't like the FREE one over here? http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=55674&hl= 1911 5" I don't know how many 'clones' it will suit, but I know for a fact it's a nice fit on the Colt, Springfield, and Rock Island Armory with 5" and no rails.

http://www.deepwatertack.co.uk/html/bleed_knots.html

That is correct . for size, men's and womens measured the same way. Over there, perhaps you swap CM for IN, otherwise no difference.

Not so much any more, but 'back in the day' the girls used to thread their belt the other way - like shown in the picture. S'pose the same way their shirt buttons are on the other side. For the measurement, it doesn't make a bit of difference. But, if you have LETTERING on the belt, or a design where the top needs to be the top (not reversed), then which way you thread it will matter. Don't think so? Take anything printed, and flip it 180° ... This is the reason the belts have "men" and "women" right on them. I've been that route .. where somebody wants a name on a belt, but forgets to mention that the girl is wearing it with a trophy rodeo award that needs to be worn in the direction of the "man" belt. Also been there where the guy thinks he should get a new replacement belt because after looking at the pics, he didn't realize it was important that he's left handed and wears his belt the other way (like the "women" one). Even after all this has been discussed, you'll STILL have one here and there who gets it wrong and thinks YOU should 'take care of it"... OH, I didn't say before, so if it matters, I make belts with 5 holes, 3/4" apart, and 6" past the last hole to the tip. Unless requested otherwise...

Chief has it about as "down" as you can get it. We have a picture we attach for how to get your size right. We have been known to mail you a strip with holes, you just tell us which hole suits you. Still, people lie. They have a tape measure, and they got your 'measuring strip', but they send you the size off their jeans anyway. Oddly, I find the guys are worse about this than the girls. Or they like the way THESE jeans fit, so that MUST be the right size. I can tell you, I have "34" jeans that I can't get on any more, AND I have "34" jeans that would fall off if not for a belt. Size on the clothing means nothing. And yes, it needs to include the BUCKLE. The ONLY time we want a measurement that doesn't include the buckle length is if we are replacing a belt you already have and you are re-using that SAME buckle. Here's a picture we send, which you can use or not as you see fit. Often, people call or write with MORE questions, which is fine. When they ask a question about a 'heel bar" buckle,at least we all know what we mean - all talkin' the same language. Long as the question isn't 'we gave you the wrong size .. can we have another belt for free?"