JLSleather

That's a great video! About a jillion "video makers" could take some lessons in short time. Andrews spends 12 1/2 minutes clearly showing and detailing what some can't seem to spit out in over an hour, or in multiple videos. The video is presented free of charge. Sam isn't selling you anything. No music playing that isn't his (no copyright infringement). Sam reiterates that "you can always work on the artistic part once you have the proportions down" (function before form). Perhaps worth noting, the very simple principle is the same one presented (also free of charge) by Jim Simmons here on this forum. Get Jim's pdf - good read even if you're not making that exact holster. This is without question the best "holster making" video available. Now, somebody tell Sam it isn't 1976 any more, and you can get heavy paper in reams now -- no need to cut up manila folders any more.

the person "who has a very good chance of getting in a fight or a wrestling match" doesn't need a retention device.. they need to practice pulling the rig and pulling the trigger FASTER

Exactly what I was thinking. OR.. since it doesn't happen when he cranks it without sewing... it may be that the top thread isn't taking the correct path to form the loop and is getting caught in there which - ODDLY, can happen if those two screws are too tight OR too loose.

That thread size not really for holsters. You'll want to use a 207 or better. But here's a couple designs - 5" 1911 and single .45 mag carrier. Just one of many variations, lots of folks liked these. 1911_05old.pdf Mag_1911_single.pdf

Strange, seems like those two parts should be moving TOGETHER. Maybe upload a video the same view as your pic. I'm sure if I don't catch the issue somebody else would.

BTW ....

I'm certainly NOT the guy to ask for sewing machine help, but it may help to let people know WHAT is "hitting". Is the shuttle hitting the NEEDLE, or is it hitting something ELSE? Or is it the THREAD "getting stuck"?

50/50 is the standard COMMON way of making a holster. It's easy. It's fast. 2 pieces, mirror image... seems to mean half the design work to do. Lemme just be clear from the start: I'm not here to tell @chiefjason he's wrong - I agree with him. Just don't like the word "standard" as it suggest that's the "preferred" way to do it. COMMON clarifies that it's just widely done. "The "flat" back absolutely is a better holster, all else equal. It's not thinner (still 2 pieces of leather plus a pistol) but it does ride closer to the hip. We could further debate "flat", but unless the back panel is plywood or similar, the back isn't going to be flat - some contour will happen to it just from tension caused by the front panel. This is good, since if the back were truly flat, you would have air space and no friction. The question is between retention and binding - not the same thing. Ask people who use or make those 50/50 holsters .... they expect that the holster will be tighter when on the belt than when on the table. That's the nature of the design flaw in those holsters. And it is a flaw. This next section is a "footnote" you can read showing some of the absolutely GOOFY talk you'll hear regularly... pay no attention to the color, it's just to separate it. Pass it to stick to the question asked. The "discussion" is compounded by soft people who want to make money talking about holsters, who would prefer to have you pay them for articles about holsters, videos about holsters, and "patterns" for holsters --- so they can avoid actually making holsters. 'They' love to make videos, showing a highly coated holster held upside-down, showing the dummy gun doesn't fall out (a 5 oz plastic gun isn't the same world as a 2-lb loaded pistol, but that's another story for another day). Great - your gun doesn't drop on the floor. But put that on a belt and cinch it a bit (pretend you don't want it to sag with the pistol on it)... and now that holster sticks so that draw is a chore. "Break it in" they tell you. Let's cut the crap - they mean stretch it. To make sure you don't get educated, they never mention that if your 50/50 holster draws smoothly when cinched down on a belt, then it's going to be more loose OFF the belt. "They" will then say that since you aren't wearing it, it doesn't matter. But if that "doesn't matter", then WHY the video showing you shaking it upside-down?#@! Sometimes, just a moment of thinking pokes big holes in some of the BS you'll encounter. "Their" fix for this binding? Move the stitch lines AWAY FROM THE PISTOL by 1/4"... 1/2".... and push the leather down together inside the stitch lines. "They" call this "molding" (I do not), but this isn't going to hold its shape for long. If it isn't at least glued, this will open up in a few days for somebody who uses the holster regularly. That upside down holster they showed you won't do that by next week. Glued will last far longer, but there is no substitute for close-fitting stitching (remember, THEY are the ones with the videos of upside down holsters, so let's not have them say that's not true ). Steering back to the question... even the SIZE and SHAPE of the wearer will affect the fit and comfort of a "pancake" holster. These don't fit the guy with the 46" waist and the guy with the 36" waist the same way. I need to see if I can find my other try-pod... for the old camera. Maybe a 30-second video would show what would take long to discuss. This is what I call an 80/20. Nobody has done that math.... it's just to make the point that it isn't flat, and it isn't '50/50' down the middle. This is what I prefer to use, and what I prefer to make. The retention is virtually the same on or off the belt. CRANKING my belt down doesn't CRUSH the holster. And a year after i make it, you can still hold it upside down if for some reason you cared to do that. The fit is the same on me or on my wife. Size of the waist makes no difference (but remind me to make the video showing when and where it would matter for the 50/50 people). Bottom line, I've owned 50/50 holsters, but after using these, I will never go back (right handed, 4:00-4:30 kind o' guy ). If you can stand the crazy, maybe check out this time this was discussed before ..

Okay, gotta start somewhere, right? If you haven't made a mistake, means you haven't tried. STEP 1: Throw out that BS about "cool to the touch".. that means less than nothing. My shop stays about 74°. Somebody else works in a space about 85°. That guy will feel my leather and think it's "cool to the touch" even if it's completely dry. Maybe go by that if you're tooling outside in Arizona... Next... I usually recommend multiple parallel lines to a beginner. But the design you're using ACTUALLY WOULD DO the same principle, so I won't bore you with that here. Beyond that, it's tough to tell where you placed the tools. Lower left almost looks like you had the beveler turned 90°... instead of having the long end of the slanted face IN THE CUT. So... what leather did you buy, and where are you located?

Now THAS JUST kinda funny. In the midst of the discussion of videos, and content not about leather, we have a video - embedded content - about english or british or whatever accents I used to watch Monte Python... cuz them boys is funny. For half an hour.

Rocky Aussie Didn't say they did. In fact, I made a contrast (whatever you call that over there, when you make a point of comparing two or more things, ONE of which might be acceptable and other(s) which are not). I can't listen to a UK (whatever those are called now) but maybe watch a video by a Queenslander? The wench wife is an imported Kiwi, so I have some knowledge of the dialects though never been there myself (WHY would i go there, they ALL talk like that). I can generally pick up the difference quickly between NZ, AU, South African.... though she can probably tell you which side of town you're from. Any rate, I've seen PARTS of videos by a couple people claiming to be from the UK (I wouldn't know, and they might have lied, though motive escapes me) with "accents" I simply wouldn't care to be subjected to for long. Other hand, some from there would say the same thing about me. When the wife's niece was younger (you know, teenager girls and those raging hormones) she would call when she KNEW we weren't home just so she could hear my "american accent". ANybody else remember answering machines?@! You mean THIS site ?@! 98% of the content here is useless noise (that percentage is a statistic invented just now from thin air solely to make a point - I haven't counted it). Embedded videos scattered through pages that have little to do with that video... etc. I rarely mention a video, but if I do i know how to post the LINK for those who care, rather than embedding so that it plays for your friends on low cap cell plans. I don't post pics in Megs (well, i might have done it once). Just no point. A pic doesn't need to be 2500 px across to make a point. I'm with you actually, I like TEXT. Got something to SAY, then SAY it. BUt these days, people are LAZY. If there isn't a video or a row of pics, they aren't going to get it. And when I do TYPE, I often get people saying they're "visual learners" Course, gotta sometimes wonder why I bother to mention some things at all (admitted my own fault). Those people who love to go on about videos, and often give you the link to those same videos, STILL don't seem to grasp the skill/task described in the video Not sure how that's possible actually. And I've had people thank me, thank me, thank me... for information I presented, which wasn't even mine and was clearly shown in that book they bought at Tandy over a year ago. But the "ads" I was referring to... are mostly those where somebody "helps" leather workers out with yet another video showing the same thing he "showed us" in the last 5 (or 10) he made (I say 'he' because you don't see too many of the gals making them). But my turn is coming. One day soon I WILL make a couple more videos. They'll be LONGER than what I would normally, usually do. They'll have cans of peas lining a shelf somewhere in the room, so that I can say that I'm recording in "1080 peas". And I'll probably git me a pensil 'n' trace around a dummy gun... fer about 5 minutes .. all while refusing to mention that my teacher taught me how to trace around stuff when I was 4 ... Well, no maybe I won't do that. Others already have that covered repeatedly. And that's my bottom line about videos. Making a "how to" video? Then it should show HOW TO do what it says (or you lied). Making a video that you've personally seen 10 other people explain already? Then don't have such a SMALL MAN COMPLEX that you can't just say "to get this part, see this guy's video about that".

For that pistol, even with the laser, guy only need about 1 1/4 - 1 1/2 square feet, assuming you don't have bad spots that need cut out. I'd be for using 7/8 oz, or if you're laminating as some suggested, I'd probably go with 2 layers of 4/5 (I usually use 4/5 outside and 3/4 inside, but assuming you just want to buy ONE weight of leather here). Single shoulder is more economical than a cut piece, both per square foot and by shape. That's still going to be 5-7 feet, which is about 5x what you need to make ONE holster. Doesn't hurt to have a bit in case of mistake (ask me how I know ). If somebody is willing to fix ya up with the piece you need, that's the best buy. Unless you think you might use the rest of a shoulder for something anyway ...

Actually, I might be in on watch 1 er 2 o that @RA thing... we don't agree on everything but i think he got some good ideas. But most "leather" videos is some du ... well, what I was going to say wasn't really flattering to anybody so maybe I'll just let that go. Maybe I'll try Aussie's video er 2 if he puts em up. I really kaint take that british accent much, but maybe down under be okay? BUT, I still check on occasion, cuz COULD HAPPEN somebody actually post something worthwhile, beyond the standard [and genuinely pathetic] "hey look at me!. Now, I did just watch part of one by Don Gonzalez. Did NOT contain the information I thought it might (I've seen a few of his, and only once did I not agree with the way he was doing what he was doing). SO THEN, since I agree with Don... a bit pointless to spend MUCH time watching somebody do what I already do! But at least the guy HAS A POINT. And I don't doubt that the video was of some help to more than one OTHER person. The BANNER under my posts (if you prefer that terminology) looks like a total of 59kb. That's K's, not M's. IF somebody's "bandwidth" or cell plan or age limit or IQ is less than that, then they probably didn't make it past the log in anyway And pretty much ANY ONE of the pics you see on this site is 5x that, minimum. And they likely aren't watching ANY videos. But the point is... if we've had that conversation before.. no need to PM and wait on a resonse... fella might just remember we talked about that.. and find ANY ONE of my posts for the link.

Welcome - no charge And you can get to Sandy by clicking the BLUE (earth) pic under my posts. Take ya right to her site. Nice gal, good work. Agreed. And if you get asked FREQUENTLY, you might post a link that's ongoing, a "running link" of sorts, so when you get asked you just say "click the pic below, take ya where ya needa go" (see example 1 inch up).

Yikes, am I replying here again?@! I did start to look through those videos -- certainly WILLING to find the one NOT selling something. After the first 10 or so, I hadn't found any, so I quit looking. One I ran into accidentally since it came up after one of these (not on the list) actually goes so far as to say "I got this idea from this OTHER guys video, so here's something you can by from my site!" ROFL Pudgy little soft boy, so no surprise there. Makes no difference to me HOW many ads exist.. don't matter to me if they're posted HERE (not my site = not my problem). I simply said... if you're going to have ADS, then why the refusal to CALL it that? Hahn's Atelier said I can download something for free for 5 days (don't know what dates he was referring to) then after that I could buy on etsy. Don Gonzalez (whose work is nice, and who does most things the same way I do) will "teach" me a class. For $125 (online). Paul Zalesak showed me his new CNC lathe, including the coolant system. And offered to sell me some swivel knife blades he makes. Makesupply wanted to wish me well for the new year. And give me a link where I can buy "kits" of precut parts with thread included. And "stock n barrel".. well - I really should just leave THAT one alone That certainly was as much as I could take. So I'm givin them [yet another] mention. Total Jeff investment required = 0. Those who have it figured out are fine. The only ones "sucked in" are the new, or those who don't know any better. They're the only ones I'm talking to anyway - not looking for any "partners". My only regard is that those who don't already know better might think that some bad leather and cheap parlor tricks is the way leather is SUPPOSED to go As for the "signature".. those ARE referrals. I get asked fairly frequently ON THIS SITE where to get a "maker mark" made, or what kind of sewing machine..., or where to have dies made. Since I'm not the sewing machine guy (I get by, and that's about all) best advice I can give them is "call Bob". And Alex (AM Leathercraft) is the one I trusted to make MY logo stamps and he proved I was right to do so. And Sandy makes nice, accurate, sturdy clicker dies. Are they the ONLY ones - hardly. But they are quite good at what they do. But I don't get anything from those referrals other than the knowledge that I sent people who were interested to people who were capable. Im not selling anything there. But if I WAS selling something I would SAY that. I turned down the signature a bit. If any or all of those suppliers would prefer to be removed, just a message away - no problem.

Wait... so you're going to have a block that runs 12" across a 30" table? Have you never seen an apron sink? Wait.. is the block right at 3" high? Build your SOLID table, 2x4's on edge at 16" centers where the rock is (24" be fine for the rest) 3" shorter than you want. Place stone on table. Build up rest of table to meet the rock. Nope, nope. I SIT to tool leather, and I SURE don't want a rock that size in my lap because it was HANGING from something

Hey, guys... I'm SO excited about this new opportunity I just had to make this video to 'share it' with y'all ... How'sat go about 'protesting" too much? Advertise: verb (used with object), ad·ver·tised, ad·ver·tis·ing. to announce or praise (a product, service, etc.) in some public medium of communication in order to induce people to buy or use it:to advertise a new brand of toothpaste. to give information to the public about; announce publicly in a newspaper, on radio or television, etc.:to advertise a reward.

$12+ for IMPORT GRADE ?@#!@!

The question I would have is more about dimensional accuracy than "purdy" shapes and colors. They don't seem to be in any particular order.

Angelus makes great stuff. Fiebings makes great stuff. Mixing the two is NOT resulting in great stuff. There will be a couple here shortly to tell you it's the same thing. Lemme just call BULL right now. Not the same, and not great together.

I'm... uhhh.. no - nevermind.

Got thread with the right "twist"?

Yeah, definitely take it off the buckle end. OR, my buddy lose 7 inches, I'll GIVE him a belt as an AWARD

Might be just the angle of the photo, but that looks heavier than 6 oz, don't it? But, I DO like well placed stitch lines. I like the gun to be in the same place every time, and at the same angle i put it. A good x-acto will clean up the slots quick 'n' easy.