JLSleather

You will absolutely find that these "maker mark" things are important only to the mind of the maker. Customer really doesn't care about that at all. I'm in the middle... use a mark, don't use a mark, whatever - no matter to me either way. Just don't get the cart before the horse - I've seen SO many "makers" with a shiny "maker stamp" who really don't do so well with the leather. $50 for a "maker mark" and $4 leather just isnt' the way to go... put teh leather first and you'll do fine. Personally, I put the 'mark' NOT at the top of the list of things to do to my leather. Sometimes, projects get out the door without it. And if somebody were to request there NOT be one, not a problem here. More important to make the GOODS memorable (if they aren't , you don't want your name on there anyway, right?)

Sew it together inside out, then turn it out. The seams will lay flat so you can stitch and the edges will end up inside the bag - no burnishing. Might need to enlarge you pattern enough to have some "meat" outside the stitch lines.

I did custom work for YEARS without a "mark". I do have a couple here, but I think it's mostly just an ego problem. Much like the small guy often feels the need to be loudest. If you're in it to sell goods, and you are selling goods, I dont see a problem.

It will work, in some ways BETTER than dye after tooling.

Sting ray leather belts are $250 in Thailand, which is covered with stingray (and cobra snakes). Not sure if those are "seemless" belts, though. My supplier would be pressed to find a good skin long enough to make a '40' belt.

Afternoon drive might save you money AND aggravation. Tell Bob that Jeff sent ya. Bob will say "who?" but at least you'll be talking to the right guy

Uh.... HOW FAR are you from Toledo? Have you met Bob (link in red below)?@!

Maybe I should have posted in "help wanted"? If you can basically do a FILIGREE in HEAVY LEATHER... I have a gal wants a NAME in CURSIVE FONT. It "could" be tooled and painted, or tooled and filigreed traditionally with a knife, or .... laser cut would likely be the cleanest method. So, WHO cuts a NAME in CURSIVE FONT in "heavy" leather (8 oz) for a fee? Need it MORE clear? I'm wiling to PAY to have it done. But NOT looking for somebody to "partner with"; it's a one-time 'gig' IF the time frame and terms are acceptable. SO FAR, looking on line, I have found a couple places that do that, but not a word about pricing or time frame. I understand "custom", but surely you can give a ballpark figure, like "$x per inch" or something like that - the CUTTING isn't custom... you input a graphic file and hit the "go" button. Most want us to sign up, or register, or some other means of then spamming us to no end for the next decade.

Any can do a sort-of filigree in fairly heavy leather? Probably a laser job, though a plotter may be able to do it. "Could" take a job needing a script font name cut out of leather about 7/8 oz, and probably be done in bridle leather (or harness if it's purdy). Anybody doing that? References? I could do a few of these on occasion, but certainly won't be doing enough to warrant equipment purchase. Prefer to hire someone already has that skill if possible. Disclaimer: This topic for information gathering; i.e. not an offer of employment.

I didn't see prices or descriptions. Is that caiman, or gator? Is that waterbuffalo, elephant, or maybe a cowhide print?

Weird ... the price of raw (blue) hides has dropped by 75% .... but my price for the finished leather has gone UP. Hmmm.

Would be easier to use if it was HIGHER.. standing makes me bend over a bit to see in there well. But it's not very stable base... I'm guessing raising it would make it even more 'wobbly'.

Okay, I took as much of that video as I could. Kaint say I didnt' try. Mr. Darnell has a point about getting "crust" leather -- you get to color it the way you want it. Good call. Otherwise.... Skip the "ant-streak". That stuff is aimed at SPEED and EASE... but not at anything else. It does give some CONTRAST, but it's a crap way to do it really. Always reminds me of the "splotches" left behind when the rain dries up - you know, the dirt piles where the puddles formed ... And it's an acrylic, so WHERE do you think it goes when the leather gets pulled and flexed?@! (hint: burying it in "sealer" or "finish" is not an acceptable 'fix'). Anyway, take a closer look at something where that stuff was used -- tell me it doesn't look like puddles after the rain ... (disclaimer: I did use antique paste once this year. Gal specifically asked for it - no doubt some confused soul told her you should have that -- and agreed to admit to everyone she meets that she asked for that). There are a few guys used this stuff to some benefit (to THEM). I've seen Don Gonzalez do a piece using it, and that looked okay IN SPITE OF the antique - not because of the antique - and it would have looked better without it. Don - nice carvin' (honest) but I just kaint git with ya on the antique (or the turquoise paint - the guys I know like girls ). I probably didn't quite understand what you meant here, but I don't think I've ever 'grooved' before I've tooled, and I've certainly never burnished before carving.

Pretty sure that's talking about overall width.. including the grips Yeah, see now yer gittin what I'm talkin about. So WHEN did the change happen, and how would you have a customer identify that .. one who doesn't use a caliper or mic ...

The Sig P238 is manufactured in nearly 100 variations (so I'm told). But - not including the HD - basically two slide widths. Question is, how do you identify WHICH slide width the person wanting the holster actually has? Not like you can help anything by saying "skinnier than the one you don't have" (they don't have it, so cant compare it). So... absent a caliper or micrometer... serial number?

At the risk of being the jerk (again).. I'll ask HOW you are running these "burnishers"? If you're using a drill press or lathe, isn't it just as easy to chuck on an oak dowel and MAKE the groove or grooves you want? Total cost... about $2 an travel time to local building materials store (Lowe's, Home Depot, Menards, etc).

Nope, didn't mean to suggest anything deceptive... they freely state that their "python" is a PRINT -- python pattern printed onto another snake, usually cobra (which are numerous). I've seen some "fake" hides that were quite good and would probably take someone VERY familiar with species to tell the difference. But - for me - if I'm selling python, then I'm sending python. If the customer wants that look at considerably less cost, no problem with using that as long as they know what they are getting.

Not all leather is created equal, I'll give ya that

No, but I noticed them once when looking for source for python skins. Turns out they had COBRA skins painted to LOOK like python. Now, I'm not sure that always matters, UNLESS like mine your customer has specifically requested python. While I haven't asked or confirmed, I believe this is the same people who sell on Ebay and Etsy, for what that's worth.

Well, no point spending significant time debating/arguing the point really. But seriously -- measure the length of the belt. Go pull a truck with it for a while. Measure it again. Divide the amount of stretch by the pounds per square inch of tension.... no wait.. that would NOT be accurate, cuz with a belt you want to measure the stretch by PUSHING FROM INSIDE OUT. So just stick with that... show me the guy who can stretch a 1/4" thick belt AT ALL, and I'll let it go TWICE I told people you buy the belt at full price. If it stretches, bring it back and I'll GIVE you one, FREE of charge. I haven't heard from either of those people

Not true, but I agree that's often the story that's told. Want to test the theory? If it takes 3/8" of leather to prevent "blow out" while straining (lifting heavy something), then you should be able to distort an 8 oz [3mm] strap by flexing your abs. Let us know the link to the video showing us how you did..

I've seen some "slings" that can only realistically be used by weight lifters --- 8/9 oz with about 4 oz suede on the back. Weighs as much as the rifle If you're going to suede line, I'd use something more like a 5/6 or 6/7 for the body of the sling. Then about a 4 oz suede wouldn't be quite so obtrusive.

I once got asked if I could make a tooled leather man's belt with his name on it in time for christmas. It was December 18. Even if I had one ready to go out that already said "roger", I wouldn't guarantee delivery in a week during Christmas time. For a "sale", I generally only do that at all on items that are already ready to send out. To have a "christmas sale", you might consider selling gift card, or something similar. They can buy a 'credit' to give their recipient, which that person can then use to purchase from you in the future. See it done all the time.

See, THIS I don't git at all. WHERE would it go? How can it "slip" if you're wearing it?

Ooooo, ... can this be called "revisiting"? Always wanted to "revisit" something ... Had a gal call about a belt.... pro power lifter bikini thing So we were discussing how to make her belt, I had a few "moments" ... making me think a little. Check on line, or any of the big box stores, and you see lifting belts [most often] sold in 10mm or 14mm thickness. WHAT THE ...@?!@! That's HALF AN INCH of leather.. FOR WHAT?@! Exactly WHAT do you think you'll do that will allow you to flex the abs so forcefully that you need that much leather? EVEN IF you could ever find a way to exert that type of force, you'd die anyway. Actually, you'd pass out long before you ever got there, so the conversation is pointless. Did I mention bikini? No, wait.. FOCUS... So I suggested that 1/4" thick is WAY more than enough. She wants smooth, and pretty, and a bit luxurious feel - which is why she called me. Those belts in the stores are likely fine if you need a strap to pull your truck out of the snow or mud. Think more 5'7", 135 lb, bikini, deadlifts. If you can. So - the point? She likes those lever buckles, or at least wants one this time. I had never actually thought of it before - but the prongs on that lever buckle are going to protrude through an 8mm belt. Not much, but enough to catch skin in there. This gal doesn't have much "skin" loose to grab, but I think we'll need to do something there. Sadly, I did a lw search for 'weight lift" and all I got was already me I actually had an ad - I see it's expired now - that says if you want a standard piece of leather, sew some suede on it and make it look "passable", then you should head to Dick's or Scheels instead of calling me. That $30 P.O.P. on the shelf will do what you need just fine. But I don't make that 15 minute "click out another one" stuff (tell the truth, some reading this DO - then they spend 2 hours making a video and call it a 2:15 project. No matter, not my problem).