JLSleather

From H.O. (the way it REALLY is graded, meaning minus the retailer "spin" on it). http://www.hermannoakleather.com/about/grading/grading-20140524202323

I've bought leather from multiple retail locations. After considerable 'research' and at considerable expense, I have concluded what I suspected from the start -- really the only rational place to buy leather is from the tannery. I'd say "i should have known", but truth is I DID know and tried it anyway. By mail order, I have personally killed too much time and effort ordering, getting, returning obviously unacceptable leather. If you're able to physically go to the retail store and pick out the leather, that's a step in the right direction and may produce better results. From my location, were I to travel to shop leather, Hermann Oak tannery is about as close as anybody! These 'retail' places buy the lower grades of H.0. and W/C leathers and jack the price beyond what the tannery charges for the best grades. Just from a standpoint of cost per foot the decision is obvious. But even beyond that... this whole 'politically correct' BS about "customer service" is out of control. If you're selling me lower grades for more money, then a pretty speech about it doesn't make it better. I don't see sending me something OTHER than what you said it was is "service". For the hobby maker, who is not on a schedule and where the final look isn't critical (I myself dont care if my fishin' belt has a tick mark in the leather) some of this crap shoot might be acceptable. But if you're in business, hoping to meet deadlines and / or have satisfied customers - time is money. It should go without saying that if you got bad leather, the retailer should replace it - and replace it without additional cost to you (you shouldn't be paying a penalty, 'restock fee', or even shipping for returning something other than what you asked for). But even if they replace the piece, you're still "out". You took the time to find them, to call or click there, and order what they described. And you waited for it to arrive. All of that is unavoidable. But the viewing of leather that isn't acceptable, the call or click to contact the retailer, the time to package and return to shipper, the wait time for replacement, and any time you had to spend explaining to customers or altering schedules -- WHO PAYS for that? Think that's NOT a legit expense? I bet they're paying that girl you talked to on the phone when you ordered it in the first place. And the person who packaged and shipped it to you. And they're paying the person you talked to about the return. Maybe suggest that they pay YOU the same wage while you organize returning something other than what you were led to believe you were getting. Still wouldn't be "service", but at least would be reimbursing you for your loss they caused. Some of this 'research' I did just because I wanted to be able to answer people who ask - "where should I buy leather?' or "have you ever bought from ...?". So I ordered 4 sides last 2 weeks, one from each of 4 different retailers. I explained that I'm not going to be a "volume" buyer - but I might want a side or two per month from them, to fill in what weight is running low. And they were each asked to send me the piece that shows what I can expect from ordering there. Of the four - ALL advertised as "Hermann Oak, bestestest in the world blahblahblah...". (you know the line) - ONE was acceptable leather. I'm not returning these, going through all of that. But I won't be ordering again - just a few more on the "no fly" list. Worth noting, though -- the prices charged were about 50% higher than you'd pay at the tannery for the same grades. So, FYI - H.O. charges $7.81 per foot for A GRADE sides. That's graded based on percentage of actual clean square footage of leather - NOT "the best of what we happen to have on hand at the moment" as some retailers do. Didnt' catch that? Here's an example: a FOOT is 12" long. You don't take 4 rulers which are 10", 8", 7", and 5", and say the 10" is the longest one we have, so that's a foot. It's not a foot. Calling it a foot doesn't make it a foot. Likewise, taking 3 "C" grade hides and a "D", you can't LEGITIMATELY take the one with the least damage and say that's a "A" (it's not, it's still a "C"). But that's basically what some retailers do. From their web site today, HO pricing is UNDER $8 per foot ($9.25 for backs- no belly leather). Wickett-Craig charges me just over $10/ft for drum dyed skirting leather in backs (no belly leather). My 'testing and research' is over - I have no desire to throw away time and /or money. Just don't say I didn't tell you.

SOunds like a time burner. Probably faster and easier (and likely cleaner) to just use a very sharp knife, cut down between the glued layers. If you get off just a tad, doesn't matter. As long as you don't cut through, it'll glue back together as before, and sew.

Yup Yup.

I don't know. But if you buy me one, I'll make you a holster pattern fer free

Yeah, i aint got too far with that. Registered, added bank account, verified bank account, started to enter "catalog" of items..... then .... nothing. Should finish setting that up one day, but been a bit pressed fer time lately.

Oh, I see makers supply (or something like that) has a set of 4mm chisels (which is 5/32", or so close nobody cares) but $60 for the set, which seem extreme to me. I'm gonna pass for that price, but I mention it here in case somebody else wants to know. Oops.. it's Makers Leather Supply. Knew it was something like that.

Nope, not there. Narrowin' it down, though.. we know where it AINT

And my comment was not so much the copying, as the ridiculousness of copying somebody else and then insisting that others not copy "your" work He or she seems intent on arguing... same thing happened in the other thread (the one that started this). My speech is [mostly] english and generally purdy clear (TOO clear for some). Maybe "over there" the game is just to see how many times they can convince you to reply?

If they have it, they don't list it. But thanks anyway

https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/product/1110/how-to-lace

It's a RECTANGLE. You are correct - no copyright. That IS my point. But the holster pattern IS COPYRIGHTED (says so on every copy of that book). Not sure what you're not keeping up with here. You don't get to "slightly modify" it and make it "yours". I'm going to guess that since Tandy just made that book freely available to everybody about a month ago, they basically can't be bothered to pursue those who infringed it previously. At least, not the ones so small that suing them would cost more than it would profit. So.. to clarify.... lemme separate it for those who may need that: the one WITHOUT copyright protection (mine) i distribute. the ones WITH copyright protection, I DO NOT distribute (you can buy that holster done that way, but you cant by the pattern from me).

Looking for WHITE LEATHER BUCKSTITCH LACE. COW OR KANGA... either works. But no mylar (which is for balloons) or plastic (which is for bafoons). NOT a test.. see if you can NOT reply if you DON"T know Oh, yeah -- and if'n ya know who has QUALITY 5/32" chisels, that would be good ta know. Could be a finder's fee ...

short of a better picture, that woulda been my guess tha's why I suggested the "K" dummy gun... maybe a bit less "buffin" on the finish. But, perhaps the SP101 will let it ride a bit higher and result in less wear? Closer inspection comes up with info that may or may not matter (we could be talking 6 er half dozen here) Cylinder diameters (note this is from internet search, NOT from actual physical measurements taken): Ruger SP101 1.350" Colt "D" ........ 1.400" S/W "K" ...... 1.446" EDIT: Cylinder diameter / length does not take into account FRAME height and thickness and should not be construed as medical advice.

Yeah, the black sorta 'works'. Only RELIABLE way I've seen to do yellow and/or white is acrylics, and I tend to avoid acrylics on "flexy" articles that will see use. I might have carved the thing 'inverted'to avoid excessive matting of the "halo". Would have given a "beveled edge" look to the shield, which would work nicely since it's bordered. Just think-out-loud noise.. pay no attention

Not twisting your words. Those are your words.

The question there is not USING a stohlman pattern (Al and Tandy intended you use them) the issue would be SELLING the pattern. Printed on every copy of that How To Make Holsters book -- copyright info. I've had THOUSANDS of people use my holster designs. No worries - that's what I INTENDED them to be used for. I'll go even further -- if you can find somebody SLOW enough to PAY YOU for what I gave away for free.. go ahead and sell it! Just don't be upset when I'm talking to the guy and tell him he could have had that FREE. Yup, that's basically it right there. Base reasons NOT to "enforce" your IP "right"? 1) it's going to be expensive, time and money 2) if may not do any good. I have a judgment for a civil matter. After 20 years, I have never seen a dime. That guy spent YEARS only working where he could work for cash so his wages weren't 'garnished', but didn't do ME any good at all. And in another case, lawyers told me I COULD sue, but should think about it, since it would cost at least $5k to file and follow, and in the end I would probably get a percentage of the NOTHING those people own. So basically throwing away another 5 grand on top of what i had already lost. So, if you go by the idea that you are "small" and "probably" won't be sued, that may actually end up being TRUE. But, have some self-respect (if you are able) -- do you REALLY want to be the "hundred-aire" who only makes the hundreds by piggy-backing on somebody else's income source?@! There are words for "that guy". They are not nice words. Oh -- you are free to distribute any information I provided as you see fit? You can - if you like - set up a site and a bank account and sell patterns and comments I've offered - wherever I offered them. Just remember I'm pretty "vocal", and if somebody asks me about it, I WILL tell 'em how and where you got "your" info. So, HOW to NOT violate copyright rules (and maybe use a Stohlman pattern too)? I made and sell this. I sketched all those rectangles myself and priced them accordingly https://www.etsy.com/listing/385969090/leather-notebook-pattern-field-notes And I also made (and still make) these. https://www.etsy.com/listing/220872475/tooled-leather-revolver-gun-holster?ref=shop_home_active_5&frs=1 But I do not sell the pattern, I do not pretend, insinuate, or suggest or imply that the pattern is my creation.

What you mean by "will work"? Wet forming, I'd want the Colt. But if you're making the 'traditonal" taco-style rig, use the K. The J and Ruger will be too small, and the N too big. Easy enough to verify if he has a caliper, have him measure the frame height in front of the cylinder, and the barrel diameter. If I remember right, there's less than a 1/16" diff in the cylinder diameters (k is just slightly larger than the D).

Looks like he made a small change to the page -- fixed by going back to his init page (in case he changes again). Thanks for the heads up - I know he'll appreciate it.

'Preciatecha Afore it was over, that one end up lookin' a bit like this. Color was just a tad LIGHTER than shown ... that shiny buckle really messes with a camera lens! (click to enlarge)

Thanks Alex is pretty good .. that's pretty good detail for a stamp that's just under 1" x 1" (he also made me a larger one that's quite nice). Link below (A&M)

Hermann Oak makes a nice piece of leather, and Alex makes a darn fine "maker" stamp. (Click to enlarge)

Fascinating! I still think I can teach a MONKEY to tool leather, but that braiding is an ART. VERY nice.

I ALWAYS have these. I use them myself, but if the new guy wants to find out what leather is really supposed to look like, or the not so new guy needs a bit but doesn't need a side of that weight, I'll have them here.