JLSleather

As of 10/01, 43 of 50 states now collect sales tax whether they are located in your state or not. Are we all complying with fed law?

Tha's what I said. IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does. Uh.. tha's what I said. IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does. What about when they DID copyright it, and then it's reused and redistributed anyway? It's legally the responsibility of the copyright holder to enforce it. What do you suggest the rest of us should do when we see that? [That's rhetorical - thought provoking, but not requiring an actual response] Copyright 'protection' applies to the [re]distribution of the printed work. MOST of us have used Stohlman patterns. I STILL get asked to make some from 1950-something, which is before I was born. What i don't do, is RESELL THE PATTERN, which IS copyrighted (its printed right on the book, and has been renewed since then). Hey, copy my stuff... I won't care. Just don't copy my stuff, then offer to sell me a "how to" or a video explaining my stuff to me _____________________________ Footnote: EricA seems to think I was referring to him. Funny that. I'm guessing we're not going to see much the same way, so discussion probably not profitable 'adventure'.

You shootin' a little wide --- that OTHER thread was about software, and people seemed more intent on killing time than solving issues, so I'm over and on to other things. Don't see any "cad" in that one, though. Looks more like downsized Illustrator - what with .svg files n such.

'Preciatecha Bob! Yer my guy fer sewing machine 'stuff', but since I didn't purchase the machine with you I try not to abuse the privilege. Got any of that black thread layin around..... and I'll burn the town of your choosing I'd be glad to pay for some LL point needles in size #23.

Anybody know how to read that crapra 4 manual? Messin' a bit.. don't usually use the "holster plate", since it's the same outside radius as the "regular" slotted plate, and don't use the "stirrup plate" because I can't be bothered to change the presser foot height and all that for the few projects that would benefit from that plate. BUT... I did give it a shot .. AGAIN. Now, the manual says put the lower feed back in, placing it 1/16" above the plate. Simple and clear. But manual also says put the shim in there (calling it the "inner race") with teh beveled edge "in toward the machine" and says "see below". But "below" doesn't exist, and the pic shown to the right (p 13) shows the OPPOSITE of what the text says (beveled edge is up). And on the opposing page, it shows the assembly with that "race" beveled edge OUT. So, WHICH is it SUPPOSED to be? [Note I ran the machine BOTH ways and did not note any significant difference either way]

That will sit in there better with 7.5 - 8 oz leather.

Crutches isn't ideal, but if you have to use em might as well do it with style Now, some may say you have issues when your crutches match the house siding

MOST of the W/C leather I've purchased has been quite good. The split is always what I asked for and the back needs no treatment at all. But, good to hear somebody admit this, too.. I've done some (I think) really nice projects with leather from Tandy.

My name is Jeff. That has nothing to do with the J in "JLS". Are you .. advancing in years?

Irritating. But I take the stitches out, redo it all.

I don't know WHERE you got the idea that "J" is for Jeff. It isn't, and I have never said that it is. But it does rather support my point about some folks' tendency to speak without knowledge. Like you said, not my site, so also not my responsibility. But this is going nowhere. As I suspected, though I had [erroneously] held hope that I was wrong. I'll just figure that either it isn't as "clear cut" as some claim, or it's some closely guarded secret that people aren't allowed to openly portray. Or, we all share it behind the scenes, but we just don't want to tell JEFF. Whatever. Meh Oh, I get it. I thought we were talking about actual scale, actual size (micrometer not required, but close IS).

Ive used the Paasche VL for years. Every so often it gets a bit of a redesign, and each time I like it a little less. I kept using them because parts are readily available. But, now Hobby Lobby no longer stocks needles and tips for them, so when I need to get replace I'll likely get something ELSE. TIP: Don't rule out "single action" brushes. I've seen some STUNNING art work done with very simple brushes - INCLUDING the Paasche H. Oh.. do you spray your finish? One approach might be to keep the HF brush and use ONLY for finishes? I have one brush that only sprays acrylic top finish.

just over 8 years ago

Must be a EU thing, eh? Repeatedly replying to topics you don't have an answer for? Seriously folks, WHAT IS the point? If you don't know how to do what is asked, there's no crime in just NOT REPLYING in that thread. Wasn't me that said it... but WAY back when .. Dick said he just scans a gun. Which makes a lovely story. And since it's so simple, you HAVE TO wonder why NOBODY actually does it. Or they do it, but it's some "secret" HOW they do it. I don't think somebody can make a digital representation (actual scale) of a pistol in "a few minutes". Nope - don't believe it. If you could, there would be copies of that, for every gun made, all over the internet. This is PROPORTIONED correctly, but not the right SCALE. Go ahead, draw this up in "a few minutes". OR better yet, tell me IF YOU KNOW how to scan an item that isn't flat, has protrusions that cause it to rock. Unless you've built something to stabilize it at 90° to the bed of the scanner - which would be required for an accurate size AND / OR shape. Do you HAVE parallax in the EU? Course, that seems to defeat the purpose. I actually DO have some of the guns in the computer as digital files. Scanning certainly would be FASTER... but, I suspect that is a myth.

SOMEBODY show me how you take a gun (or replica, dummy, etc), put it on a scanner, and end up with a full-scale 2'd drawing of that gun. Or don't - either way. Lots of talk, but I guess Andrews has the closest to rational thought. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PdKDmcmu8k&t=2s Except, it's not digital...

That's a guy selling patterns. This topic is about making your own patterns. (I probably could have left this out, but I couldn't take that guy for long, likely. The accent and apparent condescension - which admittedly could be a wrong perception - coupled with the designs, just not my thing. And, the "copyright' misinterpretation is abrasive. I don't think you can prevent someone from making products with your design, the only thing "copyrighted" is reproduction of the PATTERN - though laws over there may be different).

etsy search doesnt find this at all I'm not getting how we got to that at all. This is about making leather patterns. I drive a car - but I have no desire to learn how to make tires. IF I already have the gun, I don't need a "copy" of it. SOMEBODY show me how you take a gun (or replica, dummy, etc), put it on a scanner, and end up with a full-scale 2'd drawing of that gun. Or don't - either way.

Bob is at the RED link below my posts. → ↓

Two more months gone by. A JILLION more "holster videos".. and NOT ONE of them shows me how to scan a blue gun

Temp is okay, but we got no water! I could wade my favorite fishin' river clean across without gittin 'm belt wet I think - been WAY too dry around here. Had some storms to the north starting to bring it up a bit but more woudn't hurt. Supposed to rain next three days, that might get out out n about ... Bass will bite when it's warm, but when my grill is empty I want pike and walleye - definitely colder water fish. MN the lakes were deeper, guy could git down in there for cold water most of the year. 'Course, there was all them democrats to wade through ...

As a rule, I think you'll have better results applying the oil before the antique. That paste actually leaves a surface that makes it a bit resistant to absorption - not waterproof but resistant. This may leave a bit of the oil on top of that instead of penetrating fully. Off to read gary's test projects...

Looks like you definitely got some mileage outta them there rigs

Sounds like plain good sense really. Meanwhile, I absolutely recommend a flat-ish holster. But ESPECIALLY IN THE CASE of those who really want to know (not just try appear to know) I recommend making BOTH. For the same gun, from the same materials. Then ya know.

Thanks for poppin' in to fill us in. AMAZING how many people come begging free advice, then once their issue is fixed either disappear until next time they want something, or actually set up a web site offering to SELL the same info they got handed FREE.

Actually, I don't stretch the leather. But, whatever