JLSleather

Crutches isn't ideal, but if you have to use em might as well do it with style Now, some may say you have issues when your crutches match the house siding

MOST of the W/C leather I've purchased has been quite good. The split is always what I asked for and the back needs no treatment at all. But, good to hear somebody admit this, too.. I've done some (I think) really nice projects with leather from Tandy.

My name is Jeff. That has nothing to do with the J in "JLS". Are you .. advancing in years?

Irritating. But I take the stitches out, redo it all.

I don't know WHERE you got the idea that "J" is for Jeff. It isn't, and I have never said that it is. But it does rather support my point about some folks' tendency to speak without knowledge. Like you said, not my site, so also not my responsibility. But this is going nowhere. As I suspected, though I had [erroneously] held hope that I was wrong. I'll just figure that either it isn't as "clear cut" as some claim, or it's some closely guarded secret that people aren't allowed to openly portray. Or, we all share it behind the scenes, but we just don't want to tell JEFF. Whatever. Meh Oh, I get it. I thought we were talking about actual scale, actual size (micrometer not required, but close IS).

Ive used the Paasche VL for years. Every so often it gets a bit of a redesign, and each time I like it a little less. I kept using them because parts are readily available. But, now Hobby Lobby no longer stocks needles and tips for them, so when I need to get replace I'll likely get something ELSE. TIP: Don't rule out "single action" brushes. I've seen some STUNNING art work done with very simple brushes - INCLUDING the Paasche H. Oh.. do you spray your finish? One approach might be to keep the HF brush and use ONLY for finishes? I have one brush that only sprays acrylic top finish.

just over 8 years ago

Must be a EU thing, eh? Repeatedly replying to topics you don't have an answer for? Seriously folks, WHAT IS the point? If you don't know how to do what is asked, there's no crime in just NOT REPLYING in that thread. Wasn't me that said it... but WAY back when .. Dick said he just scans a gun. Which makes a lovely story. And since it's so simple, you HAVE TO wonder why NOBODY actually does it. Or they do it, but it's some "secret" HOW they do it. I don't think somebody can make a digital representation (actual scale) of a pistol in "a few minutes". Nope - don't believe it. If you could, there would be copies of that, for every gun made, all over the internet. This is PROPORTIONED correctly, but not the right SCALE. Go ahead, draw this up in "a few minutes". OR better yet, tell me IF YOU KNOW how to scan an item that isn't flat, has protrusions that cause it to rock. Unless you've built something to stabilize it at 90° to the bed of the scanner - which would be required for an accurate size AND / OR shape. Do you HAVE parallax in the EU? Course, that seems to defeat the purpose. I actually DO have some of the guns in the computer as digital files. Scanning certainly would be FASTER... but, I suspect that is a myth.

SOMEBODY show me how you take a gun (or replica, dummy, etc), put it on a scanner, and end up with a full-scale 2'd drawing of that gun. Or don't - either way. Lots of talk, but I guess Andrews has the closest to rational thought. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PdKDmcmu8k&t=2s Except, it's not digital...

That's a guy selling patterns. This topic is about making your own patterns. (I probably could have left this out, but I couldn't take that guy for long, likely. The accent and apparent condescension - which admittedly could be a wrong perception - coupled with the designs, just not my thing. And, the "copyright' misinterpretation is abrasive. I don't think you can prevent someone from making products with your design, the only thing "copyrighted" is reproduction of the PATTERN - though laws over there may be different).

etsy search doesnt find this at all I'm not getting how we got to that at all. This is about making leather patterns. I drive a car - but I have no desire to learn how to make tires. IF I already have the gun, I don't need a "copy" of it. SOMEBODY show me how you take a gun (or replica, dummy, etc), put it on a scanner, and end up with a full-scale 2'd drawing of that gun. Or don't - either way.

Bob is at the RED link below my posts. → ↓

Two more months gone by. A JILLION more "holster videos".. and NOT ONE of them shows me how to scan a blue gun

Temp is okay, but we got no water! I could wade my favorite fishin' river clean across without gittin 'm belt wet I think - been WAY too dry around here. Had some storms to the north starting to bring it up a bit but more woudn't hurt. Supposed to rain next three days, that might get out out n about ... Bass will bite when it's warm, but when my grill is empty I want pike and walleye - definitely colder water fish. MN the lakes were deeper, guy could git down in there for cold water most of the year. 'Course, there was all them democrats to wade through ...

As a rule, I think you'll have better results applying the oil before the antique. That paste actually leaves a surface that makes it a bit resistant to absorption - not waterproof but resistant. This may leave a bit of the oil on top of that instead of penetrating fully. Off to read gary's test projects...

Looks like you definitely got some mileage outta them there rigs

Sounds like plain good sense really. Meanwhile, I absolutely recommend a flat-ish holster. But ESPECIALLY IN THE CASE of those who really want to know (not just try appear to know) I recommend making BOTH. For the same gun, from the same materials. Then ya know.

Thanks for poppin' in to fill us in. AMAZING how many people come begging free advice, then once their issue is fixed either disappear until next time they want something, or actually set up a web site offering to SELL the same info they got handed FREE.

Actually, I don't stretch the leather. But, whatever

My name isn't JL (or Billy Bob) and that's not what i said (not even close) and a guy I don't know coming at me at that speed will be perceived as a threat and treated as one. Has never happened. Maybe won't ever happen. Wrong. Twice. This shows the FASTEST of them cranking at 4.3 seconds. And that's professional athletes. Most you meet "on the street" would likely drop from coronary disease before they got that far. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nutDiLADWuY BUT.... all this having nothing to do with leatherwork or the guy's orginal question, so let me tie back in by offering this time-honored tip: ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS check to be sure you put the lid on the glue jar. No shame double checking.

Long as we're doing this detraction from the point, here's an interesting video. I didn't go through a bunch of them.. picked this one right off because the guy isn't particularly young or fit. Once he gets done with the promo of his S/W piece, and finally goes to shoot... looks like it takes him about 3 seconds to draw, level, and put 6 rounds in a target at about 10 yards. Skip to the 3:00 mark and watch this ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0dOVZ5TRCUw

10 yards is like 30 feet in english. That's about 6 steps if you're ALREADY AT A FULL OUT RUN... more like 10 steps if the guy is starting at you from a stop. While I'm not nearly in the physical condition I used to be, I'm still fairly quick. In the time it take most guys your size to cross the room (about the distance you're talking about) I'll have a snack and a nap. And BTW, teh Duke woulda left his iron holstered and just "beat the hell out" the guy. Still, I wanted to say thanks for yet another response having nothing to do with the original question-- there isn't nearly enough of that on this site already, right? By way of reminder, THIS was the question.

Okay, I'll be the broken record "dummy" .... before we get adjusting and turning screws and settings ... are we SURE we don't just have that cover plate cocked at an angle causing it to bind on the thread at 11 0'clock position? Those screws look like they're backed out quite a bit.

EVERY BIT as nice as I had expected. You really picked up the hair texture here ... this looks great!

That definitely looks like the thread getting stuck forming the loop. It was tough to see with that color thread and at that speed, but yeah --- your thread is getting trapped, not making it "quite" around. Now, maybe one of the "techie" boys can help... looks like either your shuttle is reversing a bit EARLY (or the thread is coming up late) trapping the thread before the loop pulls up, or it may be wedging in between the race and the cover plate (those two screws do like they are excessively loose). There should be some foreward/backward "slack" in that bobbin carrier, but not really in and out.