JLSleather

Maybe. Guess we'll have to wait on teh reply from the guy doing it

That's a very broad question. As a rule, the size of the job sets the need for the brush. Most of us don't need to spray 4-6" wide paths (though we may spray 6" surfaces, just not in one pass). And most of us dont need to spray hair-thin detail lines. This probably rules out the highest precision and the least precision brushes. Most brushes widely available can spray a range of like 1/64" wide to 2" wide just by adjusting the distance from the work, thickness of the color, and air pressure. In fact most of that is easily done with one finger without stopping. I like a dual-action, siphon feed brush. For general information from people who REALLY DO know the difference, check this: http://www.airbrushguru.com/choosing-the-right-airbrush.html

I'm gonna dare say there are quite a few who would be interested in a machine that reliably stitches big bold thread in light material.

Hmmm.. is that not as popular a little gun as it used to be, or is it just downloads in general getting slower? Only 26 downloads in almost 24 hours Maybe they just down overall? Only 219 downloaded holster patterns in last 30 days!

OH, so its a commercial venture thing. Now I'm with ya. Up until that, I was wondering why not simply laser the letters on the leather and paint em

Well, that took too long. Better late than never, maybe? Here's one more.. don't be scared to post pics of what you do with it! LCR holster pattern download

Then try this download ... for the LCR revolver. I put it on the site, so you won't accidentally download it and be bored by the content. The pocket is what you need .. the rest you can alter / adjust to suit your taste. LCR pattern

Oh, not that it matters, perhaps, but this is not how I do it. Still, I thought it was a very clear idea, clearly presented. Having said that, it's Christmas, right? So lemme 'purdy up' yet another pattern for the folks in general - up shortly

TO begin, lemme say I have no idea how these are constructed or the materials used. Just knowing a bit about wood and leather and thread, it seems to me that 1/2" thick wood is excessive and #69 thread is insufficient.

Sorry, Jason. Maybe able ta help ya next time. I think Sam's voice is distinctive - seems some folks really like it. Part of it I think is the size of that building changes it too. But, I was just "funnin" about that -- the important thing is the CONTENT of the video, which is actually quite good by comparison to many others. Those boys could sound like little girls, and the fact that they deliver usable content in quick time STILL git my vote SO THEN: Lemme tell this joke about the way forums sometimes go, and then maybe we just "flush" this and reset it from scratch .. Folks doin' research, trying to invent drugs to aid the elderly with memory. So the pill is given to a group of older people for a period. Then they're asked some questions, recorded to check the results of the meds. First guy is asked 'what's 2+2" and he answers '9'. Strike 1. Second guy gits same question, and he says that 2 + 2 is "tuesday". Strike 2. Third guy is asked, and answers that 2+2 is "4". Yes, that's correct - how did you come up with that answer? And the guy says 'its simple - you just subtract 9 from tuesday and there ya go" ALRIGHTEY THEN .... Hey, leather crafters - particularly holster makers! There's a video with useful information which may help you, or perhaps you'll simply enjoy hearing. Catch it on demand at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PdKDmcmu8k

Not about that. I thought about this, but now that Sam dun covered it, kinda pointless to make another one says the same thing (there's enuf o that goin on already). But I did do a quick one about that "fade" that some leather guy "invents" every other year or so (Gibson guitars called it "sunburst" about 70 years ago, but that doesn't stop folks from "coming up with it" agin!). But while it's been done forever, didn't seem like anybody was showing it done. In fact, it seemed more often than not, folks was trying to make it seem like it was some very difficult thing to "aspire" to do "someday" So the video rather quickly shows how to do it, and pokes a bit of fun at those people, at the same time See it at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OMVHrTPf1AQ Disclaimer, though: If you wade through the intro and the outro (?) you could end up blowin' off like a full SIX MINS

I sometimes get what i want the first time. Usually, 2nd time the charm ... often find some small something that I want to adjust. It has happened that I liked the first result and kept it as is. It has also happened that I (once) made the same holster four times before I was happy with it - but don't tell the others ... that's 'tween you 'n' me

Bump the feed speed! You boys way ahead o' me! I'm just a simple country boy... just watch half 'n' it But realistically, if it were necessary to make a video on this I likely would. But as long as Sam can make the point without dragging out a bunch of other "stuff", I'll just refer you to his. Other side of the coin, I actually saw one (I had to FF thru, couldn't sit it out) where a guy was going to cover the same territory - make a stitch pattern for a 2-piece holster. Video was over an hour (if you watched it without FF) and it was around 15 minute mark when the guy actually got around to drawing the first line on the paper

ANd there's the thing right there. If it's flat, yer good, no worries. Change directions, turn a corner, make a bend.... now yer spacing changes. Gotta keep in mind that 'inside radius' thing ..

Yeah, see tha's what I'm talkin bout rot cheer, boy 12 min and got more useful info than some folks turn makin a holster into a 5 part mini series

Now you kNOW where that little fella is headed every time he gits a new shootin' iron

Well, I didn't mean to imply that I use tacks 'n' such IN LIEU of glue, more often thats IN ADDITION TO glue (or sometimes rubber cement). When I think gussets, Im thinking large notebooks, handbags, etc.. which I normally would glue first, then apply tacks/nails/brads, etc... as I stick the glue down. Rubber cement means more holders more often. As for the awl, keep the the flat side in line with the direction of the stitch.. Lemme see kin I do a quick graphic... There ya go. Same trapezoid (or is that a rhombus, I fergit), awl holes. arrow is direction of sewing. Clearly the top line is going to weaken the leather more (any time you're cutting or punching, you're weakening) and be more susceptible to teh stitching pulling through - esp with sharp bends and high stress. The bottom is made with the same tool, but the pressure is not in line with the stitch pull (better for now and later). These can be done with or without a groove.

No trouble. Main thing I don't care for is the way those "chisels" or "irons" pull out of the leather... pulling the leather on teh way. With quite thin leather, the effect is minimal, but it gets worse as the leather gets thicker. I get marking the hole locations with your chisel if that's how you prefer to do it. But I dont punch them. Either you punch a HOLE (material is removed) or you punch a slit (material is cut only but not removed) which is better than a hole, but still distorting the work. Having said that, I've seen some work where they guy doing it had become quite proficient with one or more "chisels", and made it look nice. Just seems like a waste of energy to me. BUT, I'm the one who doesn't care for that angled / slanted stitch. Perhaps that floats better in great Britain, along with that accent. No problem with the next guy doing it, no intention of trying to sway anybody one way or the other, but I personally like an awl no bigger than needed to get the job done (usually they're tapered, so just push it in far enough to come out the back side). I even buy machine needles that take that angled look out of it -- very straight lines. I saw a little fella about 5 foot tall roofing a house with a hatchet to drive nails -- and he was doing it as well and as quickly as I've ever seen it done. Wouldn't have been my choice, but he was so comfortable using it was like automatic for him.

I hate punched holes. Mark the OUTSIDE piece (usually with a wheel), assemble, hold temporarily with needles, tacks, or thread pieces, and sew with an awl, removing the temp holders as you go.

I see Sam Andrews did yet another video. I came across it by accident. NOW, he's never gonna be purdy as me, and I couldn't personally listen to that tone for extended periods. BUT, he's got some very concise and to the point demo going on that folks wanting to make their own holster patterns might want to check out. GOOD NEWS (and one of the things I like about Sam) is he doesn't spend an hour getting to the point. This video is 12 minutes 'n' change, and involves more useful info that some spending an hour and a half ... But, Sam - friend - manila folders were big in the 70's ... but now there's 10 places in town that will sell you card stock by the ream https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PdKDmcmu8k

I don't know where YOU should purchase leather, but here are some thoughts I've had at various times, FWIW .. Hermann Oak and W/C both have some great leather. As a rule, an order from HO or W/C will be delayed by 2-4 weeks. Tandy has had some good stuff too - don't count them out, especially if you are close. If you can get something there that works for you, that's a win. Even if it's priced $30-40 higher, you'd spend that on shipping anyway and that way you get to SEE and APPROVE the leather you'll use (a BIG plus these days) plus you don't have the wait time. I have also purchased some good leather from Springfield Leather in MO. I would prefer to be there to see what Im buying, but not cost effective for me to make the trip. Delivery is pretty quick compared to the tanneries, though there is a substantial price markup for the convenience. Like Tandy, there is the advantage of "one-stop shopping", since you can also order your dyes, snaps, etc.. all from one place. Purchasing one order instead of multiple orders will reduce shipping charges, though again-- if you're using dyes there will be a 'hazardous' material charge, which can be considerable. All of which is yet another plus for your local tandy, where the "shipping" charge is the cost of gas in the truck and lunch for that cutie girl at the counter