JLSleather

Maybe move this to the 'ads' section?

That's actually why I STOPPED doing that curve in the belt. True, the inside can get "wrinkly" from gluing it flat and then bending it, but worse is gluing it on a curve can cause wrinkles in the top when it's straightened.

So that's like 13 oz leather? That sounds heavy for that size, but I do like the design.

If I "make" a zipper, it's usually a #5 zipper - which is a "size" - and metal teeth. Zipper "tape" & pulls are sold as "#5" and should match - the stops should be pretty standard.

Really? Comin' up on the first 100 downloads, and no pics at all?

Other way around. Printed, THEN embossed. Simple stuff IF the right equipment. In the "old days" (25-30 years back) that's how multi-color pages were made, maybe in some garage somewhere it still is ... print one color, then line it up ("register" it) and print next color ....

Ordinarily, I hate wrinkles. I do not like them in a box, or with a fox, or with a goat. But ya pulled it off and made it work well on that notebook

Ya needa butter yer flapjacks. By that I mean smooth out them there wrinkles. Modeling tool and them wrinkles come out of W/C leather just like butterin' yer toast (which may explain the price?). Wrinkles not okay, even on the back. I don't think it looks all that bad, though I do wonder if that angle isn't a bit steep once it's on the belt. Well, for my wrists anyway.

No way I'd sit there trying to line up all the holes in multiple layers. Better to use your punch to mark the holes, then sew with an awl. You can still "prepunch" the holes - if you want - with the awl instead of with the punch. Something also been done... mark your holes, then punch with a sewing machine needle chucked in a drill press.

Your girl is half kiwi She is indeed. No kayaking just yet ...

You would NOT want a "soft" hammer. Don't want to hit steel tools with a steel hammer - not good for the steel or particularly any plating on them. Jillion years ago, somebody "invented" the rawhide mallet, which works really really well. Been done for a long time. But I actually like your idea for a brass hammer ... should be just fine! I already have rawhide mallets that I'm used to , so I stick with that. But I've used brass hammers on a lot of things with good results - enough force delivered to do the job without damage to the stamp/punch/etc. If you're comfortable with the weight and the way it swings, carry on!

I don't know what the "count" is, but I got better part of a hunnert of 'em here, and there are a bunch I haven't picked up as yet.

Yup. Less up front money if you don't want to buy sides, long enough for belts (generally), less waste (percentage) than single shoulders, good cut for holsters and other small goods. Yup, I like the idea of a dbl shoulder. Maybe not like "git on my knees in front of it in the parking lot" like it, but like it mostly. Still, give that Darnell fella an attaboy for always in teachin' mode ...

Thanks fellas -- we'll see how well python holds up against 10 year old girls

Couple times I wondered why they don't sell double shoulders... maybe not cost effective to booger the process, or maybe just part of not being like "everybody else". Holster makers might well be interested in something like this.

A bit of left-over python skin from something .. can't remember. Daughter found it in a drawer and decided that should be bracelets for her and her friend. Hounded me for over a week.. when ya gonna.. when ya gonna .... I didn't even get a picture of the finished goods with snaps.. when it was done that little girl was GONE with the goods

What did you do to keep the snake from flaking?

Yeah, see that's what I'm talkin' bout. Wanna make the 3.5" and the gun too far away? Chop off a bit of a commander mold. Or, if somebody make a mold that's correct, then buy and use that. But you have to have some way of knowing it's correct. And if you buy a mold, turns out to be OVERSIZE, then maybe you don't use that one and you let others know that the mold is OVERSIZE. Some will care, some won't ANybody make those holsters that stitch 1/4"-1/2" away from the gun and rely on the (temporary) stiffness of the leather and the customer not knowing better, then a "close-ish" mold is prolly "good enuf". But I don't do "good enuf" - and I thought I'd mention that the only 3.5" mold I've seen is OVERSIZE. If that isn't something that matters to you, just disregard what I said - no problem on my end. The same thing happens when purchasing leather. Or sewing machines. Or hand tools. You'll have some folks recommending this or that -- and best you can say is the recommendation may or may not be worth the time to hear it. Some folks lie. Others are sincere enough, but don't really know what they're talking about. And of course, some just like to comment in a thread whether they have any actual information or not. So in the end, I have to check for myself. Good reason to get some calipers

Already well beyond the 7-day processing time, so.. no pressure.

No? Well, at least we know how to end an endless discussion

I don't "fix" molds (though I have been known to add .020" build up to make one fit less snug). So, then -- anybody got one of these they aren't currently using? I wanna BORROW it, check it. No desire to spend $60, $60, $60 ..... only to find out that none of them measures correctly. https://www.knifekits.com/vcom/cooks-molds-holster-molding-prop-for-sig-sauer-1911-42in-rail-natural-p-13500.html Loan me the gun, get back the gun and the pattern ... Trying to give Cook's a bit of optimism here ... benefit of doubt as they say. Hoping they aren't another one that sells you a piece of steel, calls it a "knife", but says YOU should sharpen it (the nature of being a "knife", it should arrive ready to cut what it is meant to cut). If they're all oversize, I'd like to know that.

Haven't made one o them in a good while, but here's sorta how I do zippers (with a gusset).

"with a flower" is exactly right -- exactly ONE flower on that little pistol Looks good - as usual. "Lefty" or "inny"?