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JLSleather

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Everything posted by JLSleather

  1. No, "durability" would not be a trait I would advertise with acrylics. They adhere to a lot of surfaces and they are largely opaque, so the black underneath wouldn't "show through". But they are ONLY adhering to the surface and are not recommended for articles getting heavy use. For items getting USE, certainly DYES are better than PAINTS. The trade-off is that you won't be able to use DYE on black leather, as the dye will penetrate and the leather will just show the black. This is oversimplified, but that is the result. Having said that, some acrylics are better than others. Never used H.O. bridle, but I have used some very nice stuff from W/C. Again, the benefit of not dyeing it, but the issue of not being able to color beyond acrylic paints (and the longevity issue that creates). Keep in mind that if you make leather goods, then buying leather from a supplier who also makes leather goods is in effect paying your competition.
  2. That belt looks quite nice and the border crease is a nice touch
  3. Well, without a lot of details, I could pay Alex a $60 DHL fee for faster int'l shipping and STILL pay less and get better results than SOME of those I contacted. A tip for Americans -- don't say "we respond in 24 hours" if you don't... sure way to take yourself out of the consideration.
  4. https://am-leathercraft.com/ Alex. Shipping takes a GOOD WHILE, unless you want to pay international express. And while I like the IDEA of "buy American", I don't like it so much that the American can charge me about DOUBLE and NOT give me a better product. There's a lesson there
  5. Look around for a local (or close to local) leather shop where leather is sewn. Guy can probably tell you where to get a GOOD sewing awl, and as long as you aren't "stepping on his toes" by offering the same thing he is, might even be willing to just sew them for you for a fee. Anybody can tell you wonderful pretty stories about what you "should" have, often followed by a sales pitch What you have there can all be cut easily with a strap cutter, and then you would of course need a hole punch for the rivets, a rivet setter. A bag punch or slot punch is handy for buckle slots, though it can be done with your hole punch and a knife (punch hole each end, cut out middle). So, for those: strap cutter utility knife or exacto hole punch sized for rivets awl harness needles and thread paints and brushes snap setter (if that's a snap on the front of the pouch) Since those are clearly acrylic paints, it would save time and space to purchase the leather already dyed black.
  6. Kid looks like he dun that before Still not gittin' the whole "play some unrelated music and pan past a bunch of unrelated tools" thing, but I do like the way that old gal lays a stitch!
  7. Yup, pretty much what I figured on the look. Think this is about as good as it gets in "binary" form without going to an actual 3D embossing plate ... pretty darn reasonably priced too. There's the "proof" this fella sent (click to enlarge). Fortunately, I saved a bunch of time and $$ hiring a "local" design guy ...
  8. Yup, at that price ... so nobody wants ONE really tough on shipping costs -
  9. Hey don't you have some holsters to sew?@! Leather spoken for!
  10. I wouldn't know. I'm straight.
  11. Single shoulders for sale - half off, but I want it cleared before Christmas. This leather is either black Wickett/Craig or natural Herman Oak. All split to about 8 oz give er take a tad. This is $9 and $!0 per foot leather, not off the bargain floor, but not as nice as some I've got in the past either. Expect the usual shoulder fat wrinkles. BUT on the other hand, I'm letting these go at half price to clear out the room. Show some interest in an IM or post here, as I separate them out. Guessing they'll all be about 5-6 feet each, so $30 each or $25 each if you're buying 2 or more. Or make a crazy offer on 5 or 6 pieces (25-30 feet?). I mean SORTA crazy, not batman crazy Shipping is neither free or included NOTE: If you use W/C drum dyed leather, then you know that the "chalky" buffs off easily when wetting or forming. If you are panicked about that, no need to purchase, eh? EDIT: I'm not using this for large holsters, since I don't like wrinkles, even natural ones. But this is an insane deal for a guy who makes exotic-covered holsters, or a sheath maker, or mag pouches, or wrist / ankle cuffs, etc...
  12. well, that's a bit 'white', so maybe actually a bit more like this ..
  13. Oh yeah.. diggin yer heels in -- literally But them edges look pretty good for what appears to be a softer leather.
  14. Well, yes - kinda what I'm saying. Not teh right size. Either is it, or it isn't. And this one isn't. Could be just this ONE mold, though I'm not sure how they could vary that much and I have no intention of buying "dummy" guns in bulk to "pick out" the one that measures correct. If it's off by .010", or even .015", wouldn't matter. OR if it was UNDERSIZED by .06" a guy could easily build it up. Present condition, it might be fine for "training" someone who doesn't know guns not to shoot their foot, but pretty much useless as a holster mold. Well, for leather anyway. I don't do those holsters with a stitch line 1/4" or 1/2" away from the form (seems to be accompanied by a story to the buyer that they must not be doing it right) But again, not end-of-the-world type drama. Worst case, the little boys up the street have a new toy
  15. you must git better tape down there... stuff round here wants to leave a residue .. this looks good though
  16. Hope yer right If the sun shine on it from about 2 0'clock, should look a bit like ..
  17. Thinking more about the height, measured from top of slide to under frame, which on this one is about 39.7, depending on just where you measure. Seems about .060" tall.
  18. Oh, good thing this was here. Otherwise, where do you put this other part about design people? 'Show off" the design? Or "how do I" design? Or, "critique" the design? Or "suppliers" of the design? Seems most of the 'makers" of these are pretty binary... either on or off -- machined away or not. I would have thought 2-axis mills were about obsolete, but apparently not so much. So, ... at least had the benefit of a cheap design guy with a bit of taste! So this one should be about 7/8" x 7/8" And this one should be about 2 3/8" x 1.5" Both "tooled" in the black (white portions RAISED)
  19. Toolin' looks good, and I like the color choices. Maybe git sumthin' under the presser foot to prevent them stitchy marks? Pic too dark to tell, how'dya do the edges?
  20. From the album: Odds

    Well, SHOOT! That new ranger belt didn't end up matchin' that EMP mag holster like.. AT ALL! Oh, well --- least they both for straight.
  21. Looks great! I never cared for all the "adjustable" in this type of thing, but unless the guy gives you a "size" whatya do?@!
  22. Hmmm. The Cobra machine -- suposedly same machine -- would only waste time trying to sew that. Stitches would be far too loose. I really must get something ELSE.
  23. And what model is that cowboy machine? Did ya manage ta stitch that wallet with it?
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