JLSleather

HEY I like it! Very much the same type of thing I'm doing, only the buttons look different in that software. I'm gonna hafta read it again, even though what you're doing is very similar to what I'm doing. It's a bit embarrassing that it never occurred to me to use the guide lines for that (I do use them for other things, so can't say I didn't know they were there!). Just for pointing that out I'm gonna whine about something really petty --- you threw me off when you said "flesh out" ... my brain auto went to flipping the leather, turning the "flesh (side) out", AND you misspelled "alternatively". So there. Now I'm better That software looks more recognizable than I thought it would. Though, I'm not familiar with "outset" (I do get "offset"). Bruce G told me other day that Adobe suite is just over $600/year, translating to about $1.75 per day. So I guess I need to decide if I re-up the Adobe stuff or scratch my head for a while. I'm at least as cheap as you, but I don't like it even when the "copy" button gets moved from 3rd down to 5th down! For those who haven't already committed to learning PS or IL, Inkscape looks like a clear choice. Does it open and work with PSD and/or AI files? Hate to see it not use the files I already created! Is there a "stroke" command, or something comparable? I sometimes use that to portray the leather thickness (just for me - it doesn't come out in the patterns to keep them clear). Have to go over it again after the first coffee is down, but I do like the way you photo-ed and scaled the firearm for your "original" layer. I never did it that way (I'll try it now, though) but I like that better than the old (and not very reliable) "trace it with a pencil" routine (which ends up with some built-in "offset" due to teh thickness of the pencil, operator error and parallax. 'Preciatecha puttin' the time in here -- I'll pop in to check (and perhaps comment) as others chime in. OH-- what did you make the pdf with? Wondering why it wouldn't reduce to a Pdf (the "P" is for "portable" - )

See, that's what I was thinking, but he said he "did" the timing. In this video, the position of the bobbin / shuttle is clearly not the same as the OP's pic. Compare position of the shuttle ...

Sold. Them other folk dont' know what they missed QUICK and easy belt I just made for one of my boys yesterday - celtic design and contrasting stitch, lined suede. I've made them all tooled belts now and then, but the boogers outgrow 'em pretty quick. This particular boy may be done growing for a while now.

Well, that's sorta what I was talking about. Maybe start with taking it out and making sure there's nothing behind it "shimming" it out and into the path.

Make that FIVE. I came across one a tad shorter like 46"? long, celtic design already dyed black, 1 1/2" wide with 1/4" borders. Throwing it in just for ease. All 5 $50.

Yeah, I'm with this. I do custom work, and it's generally the OTHER person(s) who don't like to use the phone. Maybe they see the phone number, maybe not. I have on occasion pointed out a phone number they can call. And I've offered to call THEM if they're concerned about the cost of the call - just let me know the number and a good time to call. Even when they want custom, and have all that information, some STILL prefer to type it. Guess it's the text generation (the ones on the phone are often the over 30 (or 40) crowd. Now, I did once have a guy and his grandson come walking up my sidewalk with a pistol in hand (he called and found I don't have a Buckmark to mold with). This is also NOT recommended

Me too. WIth a solid color "plain" belt, doesn't matter if I trim a tad. But a carved belt, trimming really takes away from the look -- especially if there are carved or stamped borders.

If on the other hand, you prefer to have less contour in the back, most or all of teh molding on the outside, then you would split the leather more like this. Which would then look a bit like this. Since the distance AROUND the cylinder is unchanged, what you add to one side should be subtracted from the other side. So in the discussion of "how to" make these 2-piece models ( http://www.jlsleather.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/Holster_Theory.pdf ) if for example you wanted your holster fully flat in the back, all the 'form' in the outside, then (Height) + ( LEFT / 2) +( RIGHT / 2)+ (Leather)+( Leather) for each piece becomes instead (Height) + ( LEFT ) +( RIGHT )+ (Leather)+( Leather) for the outside, and (Height) + (Leather)+( Leather) for the inside. This is oversimplified, but enough for this conversation.Where most people "booger" it is often under the trigger guard, which should be treated the same way (and sometimes isn't). You can, of course, do like MANY others and make holsters WITHOUT ANY pattern at all - it's done all day every day. This, though, leaves you molding, allowing to dry, THEN stitching, which limits how close you can stitch (often "fixed" with a story to the buyer that it's somehow their responsibility). Oh, I assume tha's a G17 in a G19 holster - looks about right for that. I don't know how you got that color, but I rather like it.

I back stitch - I DO think the lock-in is better. Some "over" stitch. To do both likely is a bit much.. probably drawing attention to the thread more than the leather.

Skipping all other factors for the time, assume the gun is a cylinder (circle on the ends). So think of the holster around it as a split bushing. Which on a 50/50 split would look like this.

Yeah, that's those "50/50 pancake" holsters so many people make - other words "mirror one side to another". I like 2-piece holsters curved to suit the hip, myself. But there IS cause to lay it out that way, since from there you can make the curved "pancake" holster, or any number of other "models". Must be getting forgetful .. I keep talking about doing an article about how to go about altering these. I did get as far as how to turn that '50/50' into a basic "avenger" and a simple "IWB" model (I guess that 'counts'). The short version of turning those (50/50) into flat or curved back is pretty simple. First, a brief discussion of the problem. Those "mirror one side to another" love to BIND. Traditional ‘pancake’ holsters are tighter on the belt than they are when held in the hand. The ‘retention’ of the holster is not better when worn (it’s the same holster) – they’re simply relying on the flexion of the holster to bind on the gun for retention. This is an inherent flaw in the "mirror" design. MANY "holster makers" simply add room by moving the stitch lines OUT from the pistol, hoping to reduce the binding built into the "50/50" design (and usually offer an added 'story' about the user responsible to "break in" the holster). But moving the lines out, loosening the holster and eliminating the fit, doesn't eliminate the bind. This much has been covered already at http://www.jlsleather.com/holster-design-upgrade/ SO how to adjust so the FIT is the same but the SHAPE is not "mirror one side to another" )50/50)? For the moment, let's agree that: the gun doesn't change, regardless of the holster you're making; and the INSIDE of the holster should be the same size as the OUTSIDE of the weapon. Easiest way to illustrate is with a circle. That discussion coming in a minute ... gotta prepare some cheap down 'n'' dirty graphics.

Got a pic of the back side? Or maybe one looking at it from the front end?

That needle does look low. That was built for clearance. Make sure you are using a 794 needle and that it is fully inserted and it isn't bent. If the needle is correct and straight, make sure teh shuttle assembly doesn't have anything behind it and it's tightened into position. If those are correct, is the needle bar bent or misaligned? Is the lower feed deflecting the needle into the shuttle? Your red arrow is in a bad spot to see right there, and we don't know if this is showing the down stroke or up.

CorelDraw is pretty slick, appears to be efficient to use. The guy who used to do our vinyl logo stuff uses it, sends it right to his cutter. If I didn't already have PS and some knowledge of how to use it, I would likely get CorelDraw. Shoot, I thought that 10 years ago -- could have had it mastered by now!

There may have been a time long ago where fuzzy leather and something to "slick" it with was the norm.But that was then. Just buy leather that is well trimmed on the flesh side, and pocket the money spent on "products" to fix badly trimmed leather. BTW I also don't walk to the leather supply house, nor do I salt hides ... Lots of things are used to burnish edges, including wooden "burnishers", denim, canvas, and more. Try 'em out, use what you prefer. (Thought: If you use an edger to round teh cut edges, perhaps the other end of that same edger is a smoothly finished wooden "burnisher"?) WAIT: IF a fella had a wood-handled edger, couldn't he chuck that edger in a drill press or lathe and spin a groove or two into the handle?@!

Yup, 4 would be pretty light. DOUBLE layer of 4 would work, if the added cost isn't an issue.

Well, by the time you get it, it may already be the FOURTH time Nuthin' out the door that aint tested.

Sorry -- there's 4 of em. Pics in the other thread (double post).

Let's keep this one. The other thread is a misfire.

I usually just measure 'em up and draw 'em in. Takes a bit, though, so I don't get too concerned about the back end TIP: If you know PS and / or IL, guy might could create a new drawing 11" x 8 1/2", transparent background, at 80 px/inch, and makes it fairly easy to draw. Digital graph paper with 1/8" squares. You talented folks likely work in something more like 300 resolution You might recognize this Ruger. Exact position of the safety and/or take down lever not critical, but I do like the port in the right place, and the mag release at least quite close to right.

Shortest is 48 1/2" long, all are 1 1/2" wide. Cleanin' the closet, and suddenly there's these! $50 gits 'em ALL, shippin' is free if you in the U.S. 8 oz leather from W/C

Shortest is 48 1/2" long, all are 1 1/2" wide. Cleanin' the closet, and suddenly there's these! $50 gits 'em ALL, shippin' is free if you in the U.S. 8 oz leather from W/C

Decide what you want to sew. It matters. No ONE machine sews it all. If it was me, I'd determine what you will sew MOST of. Bags can take a LOT of stitches, holsters not so many. Best bet, ask Bob what's in stock (link below).

Let's see what ya got! Issue I have is getting the gun IN the picture. HOW do you get the right size / shape / scale? Pic one I got a pattern for and I'll swap ya ... I don't so much need the PATTERN as maybe something showing us HOW YOU GOT IT IN THERE to begin!

SOlidworks is pretty cool, but she make it sound like I might hurt myself Just not cost effective for me, either.