Gregg From Keystone Sewing

A reducer is a pulley system that slows the machine down to a crawl. You can use a reducer with any motor setup.

Why not just call Techsew? They can explain what machine would be best suited for your work. That's what they are there for.

negative, no 206RB-5 were made in Japan. Some may say Japan on the tag, but not Made in Japan. These started arriving in 2002. BTW...we have many,many people who make their living with a Consew 206RB machine. They are very reliable machines.

Pfaff post bed is a very interesting machine for sure. When things come in to our shop that look like this, we have to make some tough decisions as to where we want to go with equipment like this. OK, first things 1st. The machine is about 30 years old, and, if it's working well, should last quite some time more. That's what you get in a Pfaff. If the machine is missing parts, this could be a big problem, but we'll talk about that another time. Good working Pfaff. Check. Now, the motor. You don't like it, I don't like it, but we have to do something about this. 220V Three phase is very difficult to place in a lot of shops these days. Most people don't have it available. Even if you did have this power requirement available, you would still be starting out with a 30 year old plus electronic motor. If that motor breaks, nobody is going to want to fix it for you, and parts are few and far between. That said, if I had 220 three phase, I would use it until it breaks. Who knows how long this, or any setup will last. If you do not have three phase 220, you can get wired within the United States for 220V single or 110V single phase power. In this case, it sounds like we need a new motor if we are going to get this machine to run. This is a common issue with old equipment being swapped around, and has been for a long time now. Now, the third issue; the machine clearly uses pneumatics and solenoids fired off from the motor control box. This can be a good thing, if you want to keep this intact, or a bad thing if you don't want this type of automation. If you don't want it, most often to get the machine back to stock involves replacing parts. Sometimes expensive parts, like Pfaff parts. This could be a problem. The verdict here? If that machine is worth it, we would either rip everything off that's automated and put a standard plain jane knee lifter and standard sew motor. Or, we would put a new motor that has controls to work with the solenoids so that, with compressed air, you can use the machine in the way it was setup and intend for. I guess a third option would be a plain jane mechanical motor, or inexpensive servo with positioner, if you like. Then, use mechanical valves for the foot lifter and the reverse.

I think the phrase 'Don't look a gift horse in the mouth' applies here. I think that looks like a good machine, and a good motor setup. I would not be surprised if this is a machine that Reliable sold before they changed their machines' frame. If that's the case, that's a good machine and a more than fair price. Enjoy, seems like a nice setup.

Yes, don't quote my price, but they are about $16, any dealer USA will have them, part number again 228822.

Machine, as said, for sure, is a -4. Big difference between the Consew 206RB-4 with the "TH" serial number prefix and the Consew 206RB-4 with the "SH" serial number prefix. Take up lever guard is like ten dollars, no problem there. Clutch motor has large pulley, over 3" from the pic, this machine will be hard to control at low speeds, unless your real good working the clutch. It's been done before.

I want to tread lightly here, but what, potentially is counterfeit about this machine? It was never stated up front that it was a genuine Juki DNU-1541S made in Japan. Are you inferring that this machine is not a genuine Reliable Corp. machine? What I'm saying is that this may well be the same machine from the same factory as the Reliable that is of course different the Japan made Juki DNU-1541S. And, by both appearance and even model number, I would think that it would only be assumed that this is a copy of the Juki original. Pics?

This appears to be a direct replacement, available new. This is an old style Singer foot pedal that appeared on a 269W tacker. Spring loaded return, holes seem to be the same placement as the one in the pic. Part # 228822

Here is where there may be some confusion; the pic below, index letter C, is pointing the the large thumb adjusting screw used to regulate the presser foot pressure. This is standard issue new from Singer. A lot of new and rebuilt machines of this type have a screw with no thumb screw, but a recessed flat head screw you would need to use a flat head screw driver to make this adjustment. In this case, with the machine in question, the screw here for the presser foot pressure adjustment is incorrect. This is why some may be confused. With that, I wouldn't change a thing, but just turn the hex head with a wrench until you get the presser foot pressure you want. It may bee excessive, as in some cases, the pressure spring may be best off with less pressure, where this large nut is in the way and may limit you from backing off on the spring pressure. Maybe not. Depends on your work, and your spring.

Efka motors are great, and US support is excellent. If you only need 24V foot lift output, you can go with a Ho Hsing MJ motor for about half the price of an Efka. Also, how about a full mechanical foot lifter actuated off of a pitman rod switch when you heel back? How about a pneumatic 'knee lift switch' that will do the same? All of these are valid options, depending on what your needs are, and what you want to spend.

Conew 287RB is a large prewound U bobbin, walking foot with reverse comes to mind, as well as Seiko LCW-8BL-1. Both can be found on their respective brands website.

264510R Feed Dog, Long Slot, Rubberized. This is what you want, should not be too hard to find, will work with your existing throat plate.

This is the one you want, if you can find it; Singer part #237589, machine pulley is 4LBS, and the handwheel belt pully size is 4-1/4, making it also slower, with a tad more torque than a small pulley. This works great on LU-563, 111W155, Consew 225, 226, 227, and many, many others.

The answer is yes, but I don't know what aftermarket handwheels, if any, will be compatable. I do know Pfaff has and sells them, but at what price from Pfaff. I'll be able to poke around and she what works. I can look into it, and I have some 1245s laying around here I can test this on and report back, Again, at running speed, the handwheel, does not do a lot, but the heavier handwheel really shines when you start sewing without a running head start into heavy work. Night and day with heavier applications on these machines.

We used to put these on 111W, LU-563 machines all the time; the heavier hand wheel really helps with starting torque, with that first needle penetration while the machine gets up to speed. Really shines with heavier work. Singer used to make these for similar models that will bolt on directly with no modifications. I'll see if I have any, and report back here ASAP. I'll know by Monday either way.

Just to follow up, carolb and I have continued this through email, and yes, both the -372 and -373 models are the same.

A specific subclass was not mentioned, but most common is an Adler 67-373 (I have other 67- subclass books, too.) Here below is a parts break down for the tension assembly, current Durkopp Adler part number 0099-004790, THREAD TENSION BOLT. Give Universal a call with that number and they can put this on order for you. Cheers

Liked the video, endorsed it, and great shirt! As you can see, I'm an amateur, too; An amateur YouTube critic! Glad to see the video, I knew they would get it up and running, no matter what from the beginning.

I'm not really sure where to go with this one, but really I really had a hard time getting past the cig and bathrobe YouTube video, and think some of the message may have been lost there. Not that I thinks that's bad thing.

This is all I have, and I think all that Seiko put out for this model series. It covers a few Seiko models, and cover is from a Consew 287RB. Consew 287RB = LCW-8BL, one and the same, and the owners book attached does reference the Seiko LCW series in numerous place within the book.Not much, but hope this helps. http://keysew.com/Webpages/DemoImages/227R%20&%20287RB%20Owners.pdf

Consew 206RB / Seiko STH-8B series machines should easily be common enough that they know what foot, feed and plate they need, as well as binding attachment points. This popular machine has been since the 70's. I have Tenn. Att. make up stuff by PO for this model machine.

Yes, I had seen that after I posted the knee lifter setup parts you would need. This image is the same as the 226R, except the chain in this pic goes through the machine pedestal, table top, and down to the foot pedal. Your 226R is identical except that the chain goes from the lifting arm lever, down behind the bed of the machine past through a hole in the table top, then down to the foot pedal. If the lifting lever hammers while sewing, let me know, you may or would need a counter spring for the lifting lever.

Same thing that Bob is saying, here are the parts, from what I can tell from your post and pics what you need, or may need, see attached file that highlights the parts and part numbers. Good luck! http://keysew.com/Webpages/DemoImages/226R-2NkeeLifterParts.pdf 226R-2NkeeLifterParts.pdf

Yeah, the Siger 211 machines had a lot of changes from the 111 series that were not always popular. It's not a bad system for the stitch regulator/safety clutch, but if you don't know exactly what your doing, it's confusing what is going in in there for sure. Especially if it's locked up.