Gregg From Keystone Sewing

See attached, this may be a better book than what you have for this Seiko made machine. Consew757R.pdf

I made a video for a customer who was having the same questions, hope this helps, shows how to thread a seven class from the beginning to the needle. http://youtu.be/zKz-muyWjic

I was told from Efka America that the DC-1250 is not ready yet, and that I was advised to stick with what I was used to, the DC-1550 with AB321 controller. BTW...if you really want to see the differences for yourself between DA and AB per say, the best thing to do is download the available owners and parameter lists and cross reference them. Like said, don't think you'll be at all limited with either or on a general lock stitch or chain stitch setup, but don't quote me or hold me to it.

My suggestions are this; If possible, find a local enough dealer and ask for a demo with your samples and thread. If you can't show up anywhere, at the very least send the samples of materials and thread you want to use to someone who can work with the test samples and send either pics or the sewn samples back to you. Also note, and it's not too hard for a guy who knows a bit about this machine, but this machine ships from the factory setup with a size 14 needle, and the larger size 18 is likely to deflect off the hook point unless moved slightly away. Each machine is going to be different here. Tensions, upper and lower bobbin case tension, would have to be adjusted. Keep in mind max. thread size is V69 as well. Hope this helps, the worst thing that can happen is that you buy a machine that will not do what you want. Clearly, this would be going backwards.

Like said, the out of box setup is key. Eric made mention of an internal bobbin winder with O ring running off of a serrated metal plate. Lots of machines to this, and this is not at all a Highlead exclusive. And, like Eric said, I've seen lots of problems with the internal bobbin winders, but never one on a side table mount running off the motor drive belt.

Singer 8 Needle? I'm not sure what you are referring to. Also, I can't figure it out, but are you referring to Schmetz needle system 1000H? These are def. not the same, or the needle system would be.

What Ho Hsing motor are you referring to? I have setup and continue to work with a variety of functions and programming on Efka, Mitsubishi and Ho Hsing motors that I support and stock. I find the Ho Hsing to be at worst on par with the Ekfa and Mitsu motors, and in some cases, even more easy depending on what I'm doing. Ho Hsing has good support for us in the States as well, and Ho Hsing is very good with support for their equipment. I don't know the going rate for some of these products overseas, but full function motors used on underbed trimmer full function machines are about the same across the board. Mitsubishi nor Efka have low end motors, but Ho Hsing has a few items that are less money, less features, and perfect for a general lockstitch canvas upholstery machines that require low torque and low speed with needle positioning.

MY_1001, Also known as system UY_121 and DVX1, in your case size NM280, was used for Union Special bag closers 3000 class, and for very old 9500D Union Special. Not too common needle at all.

Consew 255RB, RB-1, RB-2 all have max. SPI of 4, and use a push button on the bed of the machine and a turn of the handwheel forward or backward. Same a Singer 111W, Juki LU-563, and many, many other popular models. Consew 255RB-3 has max. SPI of 2 1/2, and is easy to differentiate from the predecessors by the stitch length dial that is on this machine to adjust the stitch length.

Nice machine, Consew's Flag Ship walking foot model, same as 255RB, 255RB-1.

;)Again Mr. Wiz, I must interject...

Just for the record here, Juki DNU-1541 and Juki LU-1508 both have the same presser foot lift of 16mm using the knee lifter.

Singer 31-15 can do some heavy work, if you change feed, plate, needle, heavier than the 95/96 class. Singer 31-15 is an oscillating hook, better for heavy work than the rotating hook of a 95/96. Again, Wiz is correct, unless you are on a real shoestring budget, or are looking to grow into something, a walking foot is better suited for what you are doing.

Here is some more specific information I have on my Keystone file from A & E. Some interesting stuff buried in there. Seam-Engineering-2-5-10.pdf

Like fine artwork, the value is what someone is willing to pay. Check out Ebay or Craigslist, see what they are going for. BTW...there is message board section here for selling used sewing equipment, Marketplace - Items For Sale - Machinery - Sewing and Stitching Good luck!

Roger that. In case some folks care to know more about this, check out this page from Groz-Beckert attached. Groz-Beckert_Needles_Page7_doubleNeedle.pdf

Everything is on point here gottaknow. One more thing I can add, some folks like to use a right twist thread in the left side hook, this should give the same performance as the left twist in the right needle. Not everyone has that stuff laying around, but if the top thread is heavy bonded, it should work well.

First off, check that the vibrating/inside presser foot, when mounted, does not have excessive play side to side. Often, the same inside presser foot will contact the feed dog and get pushed to one side slightly. If that's all good, either swap the feet out for new ones, or grind off the sides until there is enough clearance. It's not that big of a deal, and they will work fine. Just make sure the needle goes straight down the center of the inside foot, so it does not deflect the needle or pinch the thread.

http://www.keysew.com/Webpages/Owners&PartsBooks/Brochures/Juki_LU-562-3_ProductBrochure.pdf I uploaded Juki LU-562/3 and subclass brochure from way back when, specs are listed on the back second page. Two things that nobody may care about at all, but I've found so much information about machines that is not found in their parts or owners books, kind of like here. Also, Abco Sewing Machine Company stamped on the brochure was our previous company name and location between 1977~1980, so I'm sure this brochure is from during that time. Juki_LU-562-3_ProductBrochure.pdf

Perfect timing, no pun intended??! Sorry, I can't help but squeeze some sewing machine humor in here, it's all I got! Really, glad to share, and it's a two way street, I learn a lot from folks here on the leatherworker. You can't replace decades of experience using this equipment that many carry with them here. In addition, I learn what speed bumps and obstacles people have getting up and running with their equipment. Folks that don't anticipate a learning curve with a new machine, new operator, etc., well that's just not realistic.

BTW, if you are making adjustments on any 206RB series, this is the book use here; http://www.keysew.com/Webpages/Owners&PartsBooks/PartsBooks/Consew206RB-5_SeikoSTH-8BLD-3.pdf

Parts book for Consew 206RB-1, as requested; http://keysew.com/webpages/Owners&PartsBooks/PartsBooks/206RB-1.pdf

Right, I just spoke with Don Ullrich at Durkopp Adler America, he is working on pricing for both the H and Eco models of this machine with two different price points and features.

They are a reputable dealer, for sure. Nicosew is their house brand, I'm sure they will setup and service it well for you well. Good luck.

gottaknow was on point with everything he said. Generally speaking, the largest needle you can put into a Consew 206RB style hook is a size 160/23. Any larger, and you'll have to adjust the bobbin case basket's thread guard so that you can get the needle scarf closer to the hook point, without being pushed out of the way by the thread guard 1st. A large needle like this is almost defiantly deflecting off the hook point, unless it was properly adjusted. That said, the machine does come with a size 140/22 from the factory, and a few more needles in the accessories that would have come new with the machine. These are going to be your best starting point, for sure.