Gregg From Keystone Sewing

Timing on a 7-33 is 5/32" needle rise from hook point to center needle with the needle bar starting at the bottom most point. The machine's timing, from the factory, and from anybody for that matter, is pinned with taper pins. Going from the handwheel, the top shaft has a U in it, that drives the main connecting rod, that drives the large forked crank with slide block lower in the machine arm. The slide block is connected to the crank that is pinned onto the hook driving shaft. On the opposite side of the hook driving shaft is the hook driver, that is also pinned onto the hook driving shaft. Both crank and driver have a set screw, but they are really only for setting the parts, the pins are doing the work. So...I would check that one of the pins are not broken. You can put a mark from the driver and crank onto the shaft, and see if they move independently, this would show if that one of the pins are broken. Other than that, the needle bar height is what you have to adjust here.

I'm only trying to help, but what is it either it's a 144W302 or it's something else. W stands for Wheeler & Wilson factory in Bridgeport, Connecticut. SV stands for Special Variety; to the very best of my understanding, this means one of two things; the machine was modified for a special application, and or the machine was made during war time where some items were substituted. I'm sure of the 1st one, not confirmed on the send part. I think this does nothing to help your situation, but your asking, I have a Ford F-150, but it could be a Ford Escort, but I'm not quite sure. This is probably why your not getting a straight answer. If you can, upload some pics, so we can see what you are looking at, this would give us all a starting point.

Excellent, glad to help.

If this is a Consew 'Premier II' 3/4 HP clutch motor, I know EXACTLY the problem, and it's not what many would think; they had some damn heavy grease/glue, new out of the box, that was, well, wrong with the clutch sleeve. It would stick like glue and not allow the clutch arm to return properly. I'll get right into it, since I have done dozens of these, follow by the numbers, hope this helps. Click image to enlarge. I feel your pain, and it took me a bit of head scratching to finally figure out what was going on. This was about five years or maybe a bit more these motors were new out of the box with these problems. Hope this helps, I am pretty sure you be up and running after this fix.

I certainly don't speak for Robert at Camatron, but I know he would tell you the same thing (because Robert and I have had discussions about these machines, the Singer 269W specifically); LK-980 and certainly Singer 269W machines are dead as a door nail as far as new conversions go. Nobody USA is going to convert a 269W or Juki LK-980 from one cam to another; if you have for example a bar tacker or converted machine to do the specific application, or one that you can at least use, your in the clear, and even with that, I would not spend more than a few hundred bucks. Parts and service could be a tall order as well. Hope this helps.

Basically, your asking someone for their opinion, so I'll try to offer mine; nobody ever complains about the quality or workmanship of the German made Durkopp Adler machines. The Durkopp Adler machines made in the Czech Republic, from what I have seen are nothing but top quality as well, especially by today's standards. As far as I know, the 205 series from Durkopp Adler was never made outside of Germany or the Czech Republic. Again, this is only my opinion, but I would be happy with either 205 model, but some here may have a different opinion on this matter.

Automation direct is one of my secret weapons; they have great products, services, and ship fast. I've spent $,1,000s of dollars with them over the past few years.

I can help a bit here; The original 267s were all made in Germany, and, to the best of my knowledge, all were grey or hammer grey paint. These have been discontinued for some time now. The white ones, again, to the best of my knowledge, came from China at first. These were 267-373 models. This factory that made this model is,again, no longer. We called to restock, and were told that the factory was flattened in China. They didn't have any 267 models for a good number of years after this. Now, currently , today, Durkopp Adler has another made in China 267-373. They use the same model number, but this machine does differ from previous models in that the reverse lever is push down instead of lift up for reverse. See image of this new model DA 267-373 below; As for the full function underbed trimmer model, make sure you have the required power, often it can be 3 phase 220V, and many folks don't have this available.

TomG, There are lots of edge guides available, but someone would have to know what type you would like. Are you asking about a swing down guide? A T-edge guide? Roller guide on plate also? The swing guide is not going to be a direct bolt on item on Singer 111W155, and screws would have to be tapped where the guide would attach to the machine.

I had to save the original picture, open it in Photoshop, and lighten the image to see what is going on. Here is the pulley type with Singer part numbers. You should be able to find them pretty easily.

Standard foot set for Consew 225 is smooth bottom, should be easy enough to find. Consew 225 parts book lists the inside and outside feet with the correct part numbers your looking for.

That hook, for sure, has a lot of play, and may effect the sewing of the machine, for sure. If that were a repair, we would replace the hook, and we don't take that lightly, as these replacement hooks are not inexpensive.

We usually call them feed around the arm, or feed up the arm. This helps keep confusion down. Not many, as this type of machine is an odd duck to begin with. New are quite expensive. I have a few 11 class machines around here collecting dust that I have been walking by for the past 15 years.

Common needles are system 135X17, common canvas needle sizes are say 20~22, depending on thickness and density of work.

Well, IMHO anything is an improvement, I've never recommended the CS-550 to anybody for anything. Again, I like other Consew motors the sell, and a variety of others as well.

Yeah, saw this, too. Impressive looking machine, but 1st thing I though like many here "OK, what's the price?"

I think the time has come around these parts to just pin a topic "All things Singer 29 class and clones click here".

Consew 206RB-2 is made by Seiko Sewing Machine Company, Japan. Sold under the Sieko brand, model is STH-8B. 206RB-2 is a very good machine. Reverse, as said, is lift up, with the stitch length on a ratchet ring on the lever. Stitch length is 3 Stitches per inch, presser foot lift at the knee lifter is slightly less than Consew 206RB-5, but only because of the knee lifter bell crank that is different. New style that appears on -3, -4, & -5 with roller provide additional lift at the knee lifter on any model. Consew 206RB-5 has the press down reverse, and uses a stitch length dial. Max. stitch length is 2-1/2 Stitches per inch. Presser foot lift when set correctly is 9/16".

That has been my experience with the Consew CSM-550, it has the control of a light switch. It's not just your motor. Consew has better motors than this one for sure, CS-1000 comes to mind.

I'm a little late now, but did you buy the -2?

http://www.consew.com/Files/112347/InstructionManuals/205RB-1.pdf Check out the beginging of page 11, this book should be correct for all adjustments of your machine.

Warms my heart, thanks. I had a Bernina 217 commercial zig zag, a Consew 206RB-1 (until I had to bring it back to the shop for a sale) and now the 211A reg. bobbin walking foot with reverse. Like I tell folks, I sell the paint brushes, but I'm no Picasso. I do simple repairs and patches on Judo/Jui-Jujitsu gi and kimonos, patches, and hemming pants for the most part. I always find things to sew up, and used the machine last at home a few days ago actually. My next thing I want to do is work more with the embroidery machine line that we sell, so I can learn more about it, doing it, and teaching embroidery. This means I better have some kind of a handle on the equipment and software, and I'm on the path. Just need more time, and people will be able to see shirts, towels, duffle bags, you name it, with embroidery at my home.

If anyone cares, I have a 211A at home that I use.

I'll jump on this. The best way to know what model machine is best for your sewn goods, I always tell people to stick what is to be sewn, and see how it works. No other real substitute. Now, for somewhat of a general answer. A cylinder bed tends to be the more common style, and is used for goods such as handbags, wallets, purses, industrial filters (double needle cylinder), luggage, horse saddle and bridle, holsters, and the like. A post bed is a bit more better suited for goods such as doing twin needle french seeming on auto trim, furniture restoration and manufacture, and applying stripes to the sides of pants for uniforms. Single needle is great and for stitching on garments and textiles, such as applying patches. As you can see, there is no one answer to this question, but I do get asked this question quite a bit, so don't feel bad for asking.