Gregg From Keystone Sewing

Massive thumbs up, someone who knows what they are doing, and covering a lot of ground. Very informative video. Thanks for sharing.

Yeah, we test the machines before they go out at full speed, forward and reverse, if they have it. Just make sure to go full reverse as quickly as possible, or the stitch length, forward to backward, may not appear the same length. No issue here if you stop, then reverse. I think the better answer, if you will, is how to make sure the machine does not appear to skip stitches. Normally, we instruct people to turn the machine over until the needle goes all the way down as far as it can go, and then rises up a few mm. From here, you can lift the presser feet, and turn the goods in any direction, and continue stitching, with no appearance of skipped stitches.

I love Juki products, but we feel that there are better options within this price range. BTW, this machine would not be considered a walking foot, but, even as per the Juki book, a 'Top & Bottom Feed'. A true walking foot (also called a compound feed, triple feed, or whatever else) is a machine with top, bottom and needle feed, with alternating presser feet.

See image below, not sure what aspect of the feed timing your looking for, but these two cam eccentrics (YELLOW) should get you where you need to go with some adjusting, and little playing around.

See attached images below. Remove outside screw, also known as an adjusting screw. I think what we are missing is the two handwheel set screws. These are the screws that go through the handwheel, and set onto the to shaft going through the handwheel. See the 9205-10279, times two. These are on the outside of the handwheel on our MA2050, but appear to be on the handwheel inside on the pic. Either way, they will show up, and must use a metric hex key to remove. Often, on heavy sewing capacity machines such as these, these two set screws can mushroom, and expand where the screw bottom hits the shaft, over time. This can make things very difficult to remove the screws, and we often have to drill these out. If you can remove both screws, you should be able to either use a gear puller (see attached), or often you can get two large flat head screw drivers or the like and pry to handsheel away from the machine frame and bushing and out. Again, if you have mushroomed set screws, often the shaft gets buggered up, and can also make the handwheel difficult to remove. The screwdriver setup may not work, but the gear puller can power through most shaft distortions.

I agree with Bob; Consew 255RB-1, made by Seiko Sewing Machine Company, Seiko model LSW-8BL This machine, for sure, is not a 333RB series; 333RB is a needle feed, and this machine has walking foot. 339RB is a walking foot double needle, but this machine has a single thread tensioner. 339RB would have a thread tensioner for two thread. 339RB also has a longer bed, 518mm, 255RB has 477mm. But, I don't think you have to measure anything, as I'm quite sure this is a 255RB.

This is my thought as well; looks like a Consew 206RB-2 (oil system), but I think it's a copy as well. I've seen a number of these at this point, a lot were brought in as an "Eagle" brand. If it is a Seiko/Consew 206RB-2 made in Japan by Seiko, Japan, it would have "SEIKO" embossed up under the bed behind one of the feed bars.

Every 1245 I've seen, by the book, takes a system needle 134-35 (R ). (R ) designates a regular point, that is a sharp, spear, or acute point needle. 134-35(LR) is same needle, same everything, but the LR point cuts the leather to the right at a 45° angle in the direction of sewing. Slight to medium slanted stitch formation, depending on the goods being sewn. The sewn thread is slightly elevated. Stitch holes are easily visible. Suitable for short to medium stitches. These produce decorative seams on soft to med. hard leather. Examples of use are shoes, bags, leather garments.

If your interested, why not call Cobra? BTW the 18 is a good machine.

Well, being in Brooklyn, you have a wide range of sewing machine companies, like us in your area. Even we are only about 90 miles away or so here in Philly. We have people who travel up a lot farther from Delaware and Maryland than that.

If the machine is working properly, as in the tension disks are releasing the thread tension between the two shiny silver disks when you lift the presser foot either with the hand lever or knee lifter, you should have the take up lever, not the needle, at the highest point. From there, pull the work out smoothly back and to the left as described. This will allow you to pull the goods out of the machine freely.

Like I tell a lot of people I speak with, until I put the goods to be sewn into the machine, I would not know either. If I may recommend, send the collars off to someone who can to some testing on these and get back with you to see what, if anything, they can come up with. No other way to know for sure.

Ahhhh, thing break, it's part of life. Steve will get this crank out for sure, and he can help readjust the setting for the walking foot height over the telephone, no problem, for sure. This is what service and standing behind your equipment like Steve does will do for you.

Right, from the pic, I can't really make out if it's brass, leather, oil wick felt, or what.

Wiz, putting in some overtime around here on leatherworker.net!@#. I'm sure people appreciate it, too. Very cool.

Take pics, post them. Also, check and double check that the swing guide, if it came with an adapter, lines up the way you want it to, before drilling any holes. Also check, as best you can, that you are drilling through some meat of the casting, and also not into any of the sewing mechanism. Nothing hard or scientific about it, just make sure everything lines up 1st.

Nothing more I can add to this really, but Consew 207 is still a new, current model machine. And, like said, unless your plan is to mend socks or the such, this machine can not do much else. Here is a link to the information brochure for this model; http://www.consew.com/Files/112347/PDF/207.pdf

See attached image below, this is under side of Seiko LSW-2BL (AKA Consew 255RB). Keep in mind, Maximum stitch length is 6.2mm (1/4"). Here is how to adjust; Set the stitch length dial, or push button for stitch length on the bed, depending on your subclass model, to the longest possible stitch. Loosen the lock nut on the threaded screw that you want to adjust front or back (as seen in image attached). Make sure that the machine is not stitching more than the maximum 6.2mm, or you will not be able to balance the stitches so they are the same front to back. If you want to be as precise as possible with this adjustment, we use a piece of cardboard to run the needle through without thread, and then use a micrometer to measure distance between holes in the cardboard. Once set properly, tighten the lock nut, and make sure the adjusting set screw does not turn while you tighten the lock nut. This should give you the best chance to get things working properly. Hope this helps. Cheers.

I understand the question well...it's really a see, touch, feel kind of thing. Kind of like working with pipe fittings and such; after a while working with them, see, touch, feel, you just know from experience what sizes are what, more or less. Thread can throw you off once in a while, but you just know after a while, more or less.

Like said already, Steve will take care of you. Always call or email him when a problem comes up 1st. If the table top took a hit, the van line insures damage while in transit, and this must be noted at time of delivery. If it's not a problem for you, don't worry about it then. As for the motor, it's possible the speed control lever is stuck in operation mode, and will not start. Or, maybe there is a synchronizer that needs to be installed. Or, maybe the motor was damaged in transit, but who knows without trouble shooting with Steve. He'll hook you up and get you started. Getting a new machine is always going to involve a bit of frustration and a learning curve. And, most problems that can go wrong will go wrong when your new to your setup.

First off, I think a Hollaazzz! is in order. Second, great job, I was thinking some flames, dingo balls, fuzzy dice, ground effects kit...but then I forgot this is a sewing machine. Very cool, thanks for sharing.

I have these in stock, I'll be in touch via email about these.

Yes, tons of variety, some generic are available, but most are genuine only, check the components groups later in the book, http://www.keysew.com/Webpages/Owners&PartsBooks/PartsBooks/867%20parts.pdf

For sure, no doubt 100% correct. A lot of this came about when Japan had that Tsunami a few years back and people were scared that our suppliers were going to be shut down for months/years. None of this came about, but, it did come out how many different suppliers were supporting major brands in Japan; the numbers were into the 1,000s. Like said, nobody makes everything under one roof, and people who think so are kidding themselves.

Juki DNU-241H is a fantastic machine, one of my favorites, as long as it's in good condition and the price is right.