Gregg From Keystone Sewing

Eric is very much on point here, and understands more than a bit what sewing service and support people do, if they are any good.

I'm quite sure I'm being overly technical here, and this is just for the historical value of it at this point. Consew 226 series came in three different frame castings. First one used, what I'll call the 'old style' reverse system. This is the original 226, that didn't have the "R" (Consew uses R = Reverse, NOT Seiko). After that, they did in fact have an "R" for all 226 models that followed, 226R, and 226R-1, & 226R-2.

Actually, these are good, basic questions that you should have answered before, not after you purchase equipment.

Correct needle, from the factory, for a Singer 251-21, is system 88X1, also known as needle systems 1128, 88X9, DAX1. I confirmed this from two sources. This is NOT to say that using a 16X257 needle is wrong, but it may not be setup for that needle. Or maybe it is, at this point.

Madmorbius, Don't think I seen your email in my inbox, just in case you think I'm not responding. All the best. Gregg

You may have better luck if you place this thread in the correct location on the message board. Here on leatherworker.net forum there is a message board section sub forum for "Machinery (for sale) -- Sewing and Stitching, New and Refurbished to Like New, Used". You can find this section here: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showforum=83 This is under "Items For Sale Books/Patterns/Periodicals/Videos, Businesses & Estate Sales, Computer Hardware/Software, Hand Tools-Leatherworking Tools, Hand Tools-Stamping/Carving Tools, Knives, Blades, & Things That Cut, Leather and Lace, Machinery -- Cutting/Leatherworking, Machinery -- Sewing and Stitching, Supplies and Hardware, Saddle Trees and Fittings, Miscellaneous/Other" Hope this helps.

Pffffftttt....I could do a better job with my cell phone. LOL...Just kidding. This video is like the Holy Grail of sewing machine historical videos. Awesome, really. I'm most interested, personally in the Wheeler Wilson Singer factory in Bridgeport, Connecticut and Elizibethport factory in New Jersey. This is where the W, dash -, and K machines were made.

First things first; Make sure the parts at least look like they do here. The tension disks are under $10USD, and the tension complete is under $100USD.

This

Why would people question the quality of China over US quality? I'll be some of us may even be posting from an Apple iPad or iPhone. Oh, yeah, also made in China. The big difference today is that when we are accustomed to buying products from Germany, Japan, the United States, you were always getting A+ or A quality products; China offers quality levels at different price points in A+, A, B, C quality and beyond. And I guess the question is are there factories in China that produce good quality sewing machines? I would say yes, for sure.

Wiz, your assuming the reducer with shaft lock came from the factory with correct, proper tolerances. This may not be the case, and maybe has never worked. No amount of Tri-Flow (man I love that stuff!) will free up parts that were not fitted properly. Even if this is the case, fitting the shaft correctly is not that big of a deal, either. As for belt slippage...when you put a reducer onto any machine, your fighting against three different cogs; the fixed handwheel on the machine, and the adjustable motor and belt tensioners. These can be sensitive adjustments on small surface area pulleys, and can even shift while in transit, or with drastic changes in climate. If I have, in contrast a 12" handwheel directly attached to a 4" motor pulley, well there is so much surface area (friction) for the v belt to ride on, you can be so far out of whack with the belt tension either lose or tight, and it will still work fine. Not so much with the small pulleys and reducer. That said, once you have the new belts broken in, and your setup settled in, your belt tensions for a reducer should work for years and years.

Here is a copy I made for someone a few years back, hope this helps. http://keysew.com/Webpages/DemoImages/Juki_LU-563_Instruction_Keyfooter.pdf Juki_LU-563_Instruction_Keyfooter.pdf

Yes, you can. We have ripped off dozens of motors from electronic under bed trimmer machines that were in the 30 year old range. The Juki DDL-555 was always a great model.

Ouch. I can't argue, but it's pretty good for onsite job repairs, one guy who lived in a house boat who didn't have the space for an industrial for small jobs. They do have a place in life, but yes, 100% correct, they are not to be compared to an industrial production quality machine in any way.

See attached, this is from the Singer catalog for the 97 Class. 97ClassSingerCatalog.pdf

Yes, this is correct, Family motors I was getting in with the switch on the face of the motor came in as model FESM-550N. The Family motors with the external switch we have come in with a FESM-550S.

Needles in this system size 22/23 are no problem in a 794 system.

Suz, I'm not sure what you are asking me specifically again?

Typical is a quality machine manufactuer in China, one of, if not, the largest with over 600 employees. http://a489570177.oinsite.yh.mynet.cn/_d273321109.htm

The entire concept of the 500GR is that you don't need a speed reducer...so much for that I guess. BTW...speed reducers work great even with standard cluch motors, and give great low end torque and great low end speed control. And yes, the Family FESM-550S ( "S" is the one with the external, illuminated switch) is a fantastic motor. I'm quite sure this is the one Wiz is talking about.

I don't want to bash anybody who sells the 500GR in any way shape or form. I've had, for a short period of time, a half dozen of these 500GR motors to sell. I, personally had next to zero luck with these motors, and half were returned. If someone has one and likes it, and wishes to hype and promote this motor, rock on. I can tell you I have two in the basement broken that do not work. I love the concept, and really would like for this motor to work, but I would have a very difficult time personally recommending this motor to anybody. I do not currently offer it, either. The level of quality seems to be suspect. Again, these are only my personal experiences setting up and selling this motor, along with customer reports that I received. Just wanted to share.

Only legit reason I've seen is so a machine can appear more 'modern' with the white paint, trying to increase value or interest from a buyer.

BTW...269Ws were never painted white, the gray in the belt cover is the original paint color. Not that this matters in any way shape or form.

Suzelle, I'm only giving the systems, by the book, 'from the factory' specs. Pfaff would never from the factory send any 145, 545, or 1245 with a 135X17 system needle; only either 134-35, or a 190 system, depending on model or subclass. Now, is this the 1st time I've ever heard of someone using a 135X17 in a Pfaff machine? No, it's not. But I would have to say, if I sent out a Pfaff new or reconditioned with a 135X17 needle, I would have a hard time explaining. It's kind of putting the wrong size tires on a car, but the car will still drive anyway. Doesn't make it right, but if it works for your, that's all that matters. You and many others may have been sewing on a 145 with 135X17 needles for 20 years with no problems, so doing things by the book so to speak is not always important. That said, if I wanted to get a Pfaff machine back in order, and I was learning to make adjustments by using thier books, you can believe I would want the correct needle system; it's one less variable I have to worry about or compensate for.

Just to be clear here; From the factory, Tacsew T111-155 takes a 135X17 (not a 135X7, shorter needle, but same shank, the part that goes up into the needle bar. Durkopp Adler 167/267 series take 134-35 (not a 135X17). Pfaff 145/545 take a 134-35, BUT take a 190R system needle for high lift machines, such as a 145-H4, or 545-H4.