camano ridge

Bunkhouse Tool Co. the site Paul gives the link to above has an ebay store under duckcreektraders they list there stuff lower then their on line store. Currently they have the Blackhawk listed at $28.50. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blackhawk-6-1-2-Holster-Mold-Cast-Resin-Polymer-/221500533656?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item339275eb98

What Style are you looking for, old schools vertical carry, horizontal carry etc.? What gun?

I am a little confused you ask for a diamond shaped punch and show a diamond how ever the punch you are showing is a star. Tandy has a punch set that has interchangable tips in a veriety of shapes including a diamond, oval star etc. Not 3/4" in size. 3/8" is largest I found it is shipped from Hong Kong https://www.etsy.com/listing/182306247/10mm-diamond-shape-hole-punch-craft?ref=market

Very nice.

You will have trouble getting anything but veg tan to hold the molded shape. If it is already oiled and waxed you will have a difficult time getting the leather to absorb water. I fyou can't get it wet your not going to mold it. The best thing is for you to take a scrap piece try to get it as wet as you can then fold it or shape it around something let it dry and see if it will hold shape. Again your challenge will be getting it wet enough to mold. If it is what they call hot stuffed leather, hot oil and wax impregnates the leather filling the pours. You will not get it to mold.

Military buckles or web military style buckles. http://www.baronbelts.com/display/buckles.html On another thread on these forums is a list of suppliers in UK check them. Also check webbing suppliers in UK. See list of suppliers for UK in this thread http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=57101#entry366968 If there are any military surpluss check them as well.

There are several ways of making incised patterns. Use a swivel knife to cut the lines then use the tip of a modeling spoon to widen or open the lines up. For the wider lines use a free hand groover. I am sure other people have techniques they would use.

Red here is what I have.

Here is another one that may have some of interest to you , look also under their belt accessories heading http://www.wulflund.com/leather-products/belt-accessories/celtic-knot-saddlery-decorative-concho.html/

Red, I have a can of Barkeepers Friend on the back label toward the bottom where it says Caution: contains Oxalic Acid

Here is one to look at http://www.ravenswoodleather.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=98&pg=1 , Search under celtic, viking, midevil, or reniassance I found possabiilities under all of those searches.

As Northmount said there are lots of machines people call leather machines. There is nothing I no of that is branded "leather machine". There is the Leather Machine Company they sell Cobra. You will want to get more information. I would be suspect if he is just going to throw it in just because you are buying two Juki's unless you are paying a substantial price.

I use a diamond awl blade chucked in a drill press (not turned on) The awl blade passes through very thick leather fairly easily alll you have to do is turn the handle on the drill press does not take much effort. Keep waxing the awl blade to make it easier to pass through the thick leather.

I dye first then apply neatsfoot oil. The dye as you stated will dry the leather it draws out some of the nutrients. THe idea with the oil is put soe back into the leather. I do finger tip applications. if you do get blochiness wait a couple of days. It takes time for the oil to migrate through the leather, if you get a lot in one area it will take longer for it to even out. If you do oil first give at least 24 hour for the oil to migrate before dying.

On the 1911 you did not state barrel length. Just an FYI Bunkhouse tools has 1911 5" for $36.00.

If you want to pay for one I will be happy to make it and ship it to you. It looks like a 2x6 or 2x8 with 4 or 5 different sized slots cut in it. Those slots or kerfs can be cut with an adjustable dado blade on a table saw or with a router. Sand every thing smotth slap some sealer/finish on it if desired and your good to go. You could have various depths as well to accomodate different widths of belts.

Red I can't really giv you a time frame it depends on the individual leather your concentration etc. Like Northmount said try it on some scrap to get a feel for it. It is mot originally made for leather it is a cleanser. when you read the label it will menion all types of surfaces., and yes it is used for bleaching wood and works for leather as well. As Northmount mentioned just a quick water rinse is all I do. I do reccomend wearing gloves the label says prolonged skin contact can cause skin irritation, remember your skin is untanned leather

If I got paid that much for making something like that I would be Happy Everyday.

Red, not sure what toxic liquid you are refering to. You might try Oxalic acid. You can find it at Home Depot etc. You can find it labled Oxalic acid or Barkeepers Friend. It is in crystal form mixed with water. Apply to the area it will basicaly bleach it, don't leave it on to long you can get a pinkish look. No guarantee it will work for your problem but it may.

Measurements have been obtained. Thanks guys.

Snap on or snap around is a little slower but your only talking seconds. My opinion is that the sanp on is more secure. I have made and used both types and have found that the belt clip type when sitting down can get pushed up on to the belt or even off of the belt (some of that will be dependent on size of gun and or body style). Also there is a wide variance in quality of belt clips. If you go the belt clip route spend the few extra cents on good quality clips. I have nt notice a problem with clothing on either type however the belt clip style can chew up the edge of your belt. Another alternative you might look at if you are primarily concerned with ease of donning and doffing wouldbe the paddle holster.

Here is an excerpt from Fashion 101 on Hermes leather craftsman. Hermès does not hire just anyone to work in the ateliers. Most of the artisans come from a school in Paris called the École Grégoire-Ferrandi, which specialises in saddle-making and other traditional leather skills. Students are deliberately assigned the toughest leather–box calf, which is hard and easily scratched. They train on the saddle stitch, which is used on all Hermès bags, and must maintain good posture while working. The course can last 18 months. If they are hired by Hermès, they spend up to two years in one of the company’s own schools, working on small leather pieces like watch straps and handles. They may also learn to cut skins. After working on these smaller pieces, the artisan can begin on the bag itself, but must have solid experience (up to five years) before they can work with crocodile skin. Hermès’s primary atelier is in Pantin, a suburb in Paris, where more than 300 workers are spread over 15 workshops. The artisans wear white coats and aprons, and some of them listen to their iPods while they work, but the room is completely silent except for the occasional bang of a hammer or buzzing machinery. Although wages for a leather worker at Hermes might be above average i doubt that they would be in 100k euro. Average monthly wage is $4,500, Executive/management is 7,000. http://www.salaryexplorer.com/salary-survey.php?loc=74&loctype=1

I am not a fan of SOBs espescially IWB SOB, however these might help you. The second one is a tutorial on how to make a OWb SOB however it can be modified to become a IWB SOB ttp://www.pinterest.com/search/pins/?q=small%20of%20the%20back%20holster http://glocktalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1420933

Mike I think that last one is a Leather Kydex hybrid. Instead of riveting the kydex he stitched it. The gun will be held in place by the molded Kydex.

Anyone have a Henry .22 Mares Leg they would be willing to give me some measurements from. I havea Denix Mares leg replica I know it is several inches shorter then the Henry, however I want to compare height and width for comparison. Thanks