camano ridge

I think you will find that it will vary in different parts of the country. Some area have more anvils then others. Here in Western side of Washington state $3 - 4.00 a pound for an anvil in decent shape seems to be average. Having said that i just looked on Craigslist and seen a 105lb anvil for $650.00. You might look on craigslist for your area and see what they are going for on there.

Red, I don't click but you might get a hold of Chirs Andre Makers Leather Supply (aka Slickbald) He sells clicked out blanks of his Western holster patterns. He might give you some insight. One thing I have learned, you don't really want to try to glue together two pieces exactly the same size. You would be better off to click one piece then glue to your side or shoulder and cut out. THe piece you clicked is exactly your pattern so using it as a cutting guide should give you a pretty good finished product. If you have two pieces cut exactly to the same size and try to glue them together it is difficult to get all edges to line up exactly, especially if you are using contact cement like Weldwood.

Good chance the op has improved since this was posted in 2010

Is this the S&W40VE if so multi molds has the S&W9VE they aree the same. http://www.multiholsters.com/Molds.htm scroll down to list. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smith_%26_Wesson_SD_VE

Grumpy, nice sheaths TN, those look like Blade-TechMolles you can order from Blade-Tech however I think you get a better price from Index Fastners http://www.ifithermoplastics.com/products/blade-tech-accessories/molle-lok-large-w-hardware . knifekits.com also sell similar ones.

Here is a link to where he previously posted the pattern http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=52018

Accrylic will help. resolene cut 50/50 with water, some use Mop n Glo floor wax cut 50/50 with water.

I use both clear and black snap protectors depending on the holster I am making.

Natural gut is a little different then sinew. Gut comes from the fibers found in animal intestines. Sinew comes from the for legs and back strap of animals such as deer, elk, horse etc. Gut is still used in stringing high end tennis rackets, hafting, sewing buckskin etc. They have it listed for hafting and sewing. I am no expert and do not know what your sewing application is. I would reccomend calling Moscow Hide and Fur and telling them what you want to use it for. They are knowledgable people and can probably tell you if it will be suitable for your application or point you in the direction of something that will be suitable for your application.

Knife sheaths, flap for a beaver tail possibles bag.

I pre punch my holes with a diamond awl chucked in an unplugged drill press. I do not like drilling holes with a drill bit, essentialy you are burnishing the holes as you drill and it does not heal up. As to rub off on your thread I usually use a little bit longer piece of thread and figiure the first 10 -12" on each end will be waste as that is where most of the dye will bepicked up the rest of the thread should be clean. As you stitch and near the end of your thread and the thread that is left is looking dingy or discolored from the dye rub off cut it off and finish stitching with a new piece of thread repeat as needed.

You will find that working with natural sinew can be a bit of work and sometimes a PITA. Here is a link with good information from Chuck Burrows, it also has a tutorial on using sinew. Scroll down to post #9 http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/320852-Natural-Sinew Crazy crow sells deer sinew, Moscow Hide and Fur hideandfur.com sells deer, elk horse. THe back strap will give you the longest pieces 16 - 20"s or so. You will not buy a roll of it like synthetic sinew. Real sinew is usually in a color they call natural kind of a tan or straw color. You can find some done in white ofr black. That is about the limit of the colors I have seen in real sinew. Many colors available in synthetic sinew. Hope this helps

I checked suppliers I use could not find star of David concho. However you might consider using something like this and JB weld a Chicago screw to the back to make a concho. http://www.madaboutmolds.com/Cultural%20and%20Ethnic%20Molds.htm#!/~/product/category=1156496&id=5857004

Not sure if this is the one you are looking for http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=36992&hl=%2Bawl+%2Bhaft There is also another thread started by Rawcustom I think it was deciding to make my own awl.

You can get reversible belt buckles, they simply swivel around to the otherside. Here is a link http://www.thebeltwholesale.com/wholesale_pin_buckle_reversible_buckle_lot-c-1_123.html the second and third listing are reversible buckles. If you do a search for reversible belt buckles you will find more.

Page 25 http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=52017 the 1863 holoster is there also a post or two down

No problem Jim. I am cheap labor "Will work for patterns"

He posted it on Aug 17 2014 as 1863 civilwar holster on the Gun holster, Rifle slig, Knife sheath forum. Here is the link, http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=57758 Post 1 is the patter post 2 are the instructions you will want to down load both PDFs.

bemavu go to the Holster Sling Knife sheath forum he posted the pattern there as a downloadable PDF

Tossik, all of my belts are hand sewn and I have made many. I havea awl blade chucked in an unplugged drill press, i lay out my stitch line with a stitching groover and mark my stitches with an overstitch wheel then punch all of the stitch holes with hte drill press. When done find a comfortable chair and start stitching. You don't have to stitch 500 holes in one sitting, however once you get pas tthe half way point you will be surprised at your desire to keep going just to get it done. I have never used a machine on my belts and some of them I even do the gunfighter stitch on ( decorative stitching).

Anyone able to give me meaurements on a magazine for a Ruger SR9c? I have the blue gun but not a mag. Intend to make a couple of wood forms. Customer is on a backcountry pack trip can't get a hold of him to get measurements (forgot to ask him earlier).

I use a similar mix, most of the time I use my fingers to rub it in. On larger surfaces lik rifle scabbards I us a cotton terry wax applicator from local auto parts store. You can get the applicatorsat Wal-Mart etc. Even a terry cloth towel should be pretty lint free.

Any lintless cloth. Some people use shearling. What type of "wax" are you using? Are you waxing products that you have made or waxing store bought products?

This company is on these forums and advertises in the above banner. I believe if you talk to them they can provide what you want. Here is their link http://lwleathers.com/products/leather-embossing Look at the picture top left hand. it does not show the whole tool, however I think it is similar to what you are looking for.

Take a piece of scrap leather and put a little sno seal on it and see for your self. You will be the best judge as to if it darkens too much for you. I live in the Pacific northwest our hunting season is definitely dap if not down right soggy. I use Skidmores Bees wax waterproofing.