camano ridge

THe idea of a properly placed thumb gripis so that as youget your hand into a gripping position around the grip the thumb is intuitively placed and breaks the snap all in one motion. That is not likely to happen with that one. I think the maker of that holster was going for maximum retention and not ease of draw. I agree with chiefjason, odd ball.

Now that is more like it. That is a nice harmonica case. Thanks for reposting the pictures.

I thought maybe it was one of those The Emperors New Clothing things. Oh yea thats a really nice hamonica case.

I must need new glasses. Chris can evidently see them but I can't.

I can see a new work space in the future and an oriental rug for the dinning room. On my bench I have a piec of styrafoam with a hole the size of the dye bottle cut init. WHen I have an open bottle of dy it sits in the block of styrafoam. Very dificult to knock over.

What are your coin holders listed under? I looked on your site and even did a search for coin holders on your site could not find them.

Double Daddy, Eddie 1968, Pounder and Josh thank you very much for the kind words they are appriciated. It was a fun set to build.

Jazzman, looks like Zuludog has given you a good bit of information to get you going with. Here are a few more tidbits that may be of help to you. THere are a couple of prolific video makers that have made may videos on leatherwork from the basics of stitching to detailed videos on making advanced projects. Two of the most notable are Niegel Armitage and Ian Atkinson Leodis Leather. They both have many videos on you tube. Here is Ians sight with a list of his videos. http://ianatkinson.net/leather/videos.htm below is one Niegels many videos. . Another supplier I did not see in zuludogs posts is Abbey of England http://www.abbeyengland.com/ Also if you do a search on these forums for UK suppliers you will find several listed as well as a number of people on these forums from the UK.

A lot of the Makers Mark , makers (say that three times fast) have stock styles however most do custom work also. Two that you could contact would be Studio - N or blackriverlaser.com both are members on these forum. If you are just looking for something to identify it as made by you but not really promoting a business you could use your initials or brerakdown builder of stuff into initials. For something unique something shaped like a head knife with the initials in the blade area would be cool. For examples search these forums for makers mark also if you go over to cascity.com to the Leathershop then find the FAQ how to's I believe there is a thread showing many of the makers marks for makers on those forums.

What is the name of your business, waht are you trying to convey with you makers stamp? The makers stamp should conect to your business some how represent you. The purpose of a makers stamp is so that people can look at something and know who made it and have anme to contact. Some people are now putting there .com on their makers stamp.

It does not sound like it is ruined you used it on a holster and said it worked fine. I always use resolene cut 50/50 with water. So just thin it with water to the thickness you prefer.

They are called copper rivets and burrs. They are available just about any place that sells leather supplies including Tandy. Many harware suppliers also carry them. They are also commonly refered to as belt rivets. They are available in differet sizes with #9 - #12 being most common in leatherworking.

This is what I use, it is free and easy. http://www.shrinkpictures.com/ Step one choose file from your photos, step 2 click on 50% leave the other steps as they are click on shrink and wait. Depending on the size of the picture it might take a minute or two. once your picture shows up click on download and save where you want it. THen wha you want to upload a picture here click on more reply options then choose file.

CUstomer wanted a mares leg scabbard and a scabbard for a Mossberg Tactical Lever Action 30-30. He wanted them so that they could be interchangablyworn on a bandolier.He wanted the bandolier so that he could wear the scabbards eother in front with the stocke across the right chest or across the back with the stock behind the left shoulder for a right hand over the left shoulder draw. I made the Mares leg so that it could also be worn on the belt with a leg strap if desired. He wanted the rifle scabbard to have cartridge holders. THere are two cartridge holders 6 rounds each. I trimmed the scabbard with shark skin for a Tacti-cool look. The bandolier has several strap slots on the back so either scabbard can be put on and allows height adjustment. The bottom corner of the bandolier is set up with some adjustment to allow for wearing heavier coat in winter etc.

Check the threads on this forum, there are several that discuss models that can be used for other models.

As RiverCity said Veg tanned is full grain. Here is a chart that may help you understand the grading. That is not to say everyone strictly follows it. However it will give you a guide.

Roy Baker is generaly credited with designing the pancake holster about 40 years ago and patented it in the early 70's. Roy Baker is commonly called the Father of the Pancake Holster, also Roy Baker the Pancake Maker. Sadly he is no longer with us. I still have the Guns and Ammo magazine (1974) that has one of the first articles on Roy Baker and the Pancake hoslter. After I read that article. I ran out to tandy bought a chunk of leather and made my first holster. It literally looked like a pancake with a bite out of it. I still have that holster hanging on the wall in my shop. Almost every holster maker since the early 70's has made a pancake holster in one form or another. I see that as a tribute to Roy Baker.

If you can list what you have I don't think you will have trouble getting rid of most of it. I would like to know what you have.

Pounder sent you a PM

If you come up with a completely new holster design that is functional. Let me know so I can make one similar to it. If you look on this site for holsters, pancake avenger etc. You will find that for the most part they all share some similairities. THe projects you have posted so far look like a pretty good begining.

You might want to repost this up in the sewing machine forum. THere are many knowledgable people (in regard to sewing machines) that frequest that forum.

I would reccomend practice dying on some scrap if you have some. Many times the dye right out of the bottle will be very dark. You can cut it with alcahol until you get the shade you want. I have a hard time getting a good even dye job with a swab. THis is my personal way and it works for me, others mialage may vary. I use a sponge. I prefer the closed cell kind and cut them into about 2" squares. dab the sponge in your dye mix then lightly folded paper towel to distribute the dye more evenly and soak up an excess. I oil after dying. This helps to put nutrient back into the leather that were lost during the dying process. Again I reccomend practicing before you do it on your project to make sure the process works for you. Below are a few pictures of items I have dyed using my method. Again there are many methods including dip dye, spray guns etc.

Good, it will be easier to give you some ideas if we can see exactly what it is you are dealing with.

Can you show us a picture of it? You might want to re post this with picture in the saddle and tack forum.

I was in Tandy a week ago and the manager told me I needed really good leather and I should start buying his Herman Oak. They only carry two thicknesses of sides no shoulders. I told him I do buy Herman Oak but at a better price. He said I can't get a better price because Tandy is only selling A and B grade and that Tandy is the only one getting that grade everyone else including Springfield leather is only getting Tannery run. I looked at what he had just for the heck of it I found nothing that looked like A grade most of it had brands and blemishes.