camano ridge

That style is frequently called Bushcraft style sheath. To protect the stitching put in a welt. A welt is a strip of leather that goes betwen the front and back panels of the sheath.

NOt sure if this is what you want and you did not say what size. So here is a large and a small either one can be enlarged or shrunk to the size you need. On the large make sure printer is set to actual size and not fit to frame. It takes a full page.

Thanks, ec. Yes it is already getting a nice look to it. Customer requested natural. It is finnished with three coats of Skidmores.

Sheath looks very nice and will look even better on that belt.

Big Lew, what style are you looking for pancake, avenger, shoulder ect.

COntact cement. I use weldwood contact cement. I use the green label. It has a lot less odor then the red label. WIth contact cement let it dry about thirty minutes. When you go to put the pieces together make sure they are aligned before pushing them down. Once stuck, they are stuck. Then let the project set a few hours so the glue cures. you should not have any gumming when poking holes or stitching.

Customer wanted a snapcake for his Taraus Judge. I made my pattern more or less based on the Axiom. Customer requested the two tone ranger star.

Dwight gace you some good info on scabbards. There are some how to's on youtube as well that would be worth your while to look at. I will give some answers to your other questions. As to if oil dyes or water based dyes are better. THat is kind of a loaded questions, on the order of what is better a 9 mm or a .45. YOu will find people that will choose one over the other. I use both depending on what I am doing. Mainly because there are colors available in one that are not available in the other. As to water based I use the Eco FLo Proffessional when I do use water based. It seems to have far less rub off then the oil based. As to vinegaroon I have used it for many years as have others on here. If you neutralize it with a quick dunk in a water baking soda bath then give a quick rinse with clean water the roon should do no harm to the leather. THere are several threads on these forums on binegaroon and if you go over to cascity.com forums click on leahtershoop then FAQ's How to's find the old time dyes thread you will find a lot of info on vinegaroon. If you look in the Gun holster, Rifle Sling, Knife Sheath forum on here you will find a post by Brushopper of some of his scabbards he has made, he is from UK as well.

Beautiful work as always.

JLS sent you a PM

Samar, good to see you back again. The bags are very nice. Your craftsmanship is excellent as always.

Does it have to be cast aluminium. The only manufacture of aluminum replicas at present that I know of is Duncans. They have a Red Hawk in their inventory but I do not believe they have a Blackhawk. Bunkhouse tool company has a resin Blackhawk holster mold. http://www.shop.bunkhousetools.com/Blackhawk-6-1-2-910.htm. Also check their ebay site duckcreektraders frequently they have the same items listed but a few dollars cheaper.

Glue or clamps will work. I glue all my main seams on holsters, sheaths etc. using contact cement. I use an awl and hand stitch everything I make. If you don't wait for the glue to cure you probably would end up with it being a bit gummy. I have never had that problem. My awl comes out clean. Overall the quiver came out pretty decent.

A couple of ways to get noticed. Contact Jeff Quinn at http://www.gunblast.com/ it is an online blog. He reviews guns, holsters etc. Check his site out. He has a pretty good following. If you contact him see if he will do a review of your belt if you send him one (pretty cheap advertising). Do the same thing with a couple of magazines. A good one would be Concealed carry . https://www.concealedcarrymagazine.com/

)5, there are two ways that I would use. The first one would be to dye the entire holster tan. Let dry at least 24 hours. Take a small model paint brush and brush the black on to the background and any area you wnat to accent with blak. Let dry completely. Then use a rag and rub the heck out of it until you get no more rub off. With USMC black you will tend to get a fair amount of rub off initialy. once everythiing is dry you should not get any bleeding when you wet the holster to put through the skirt loops. The other way to do it is to dye the entire holster tan. Then use Fiebings black antique gel. You wipe on a good dose covering the holster then use a clean rug or papper towel and wipe of the antique. Making sure not to get down into the deppressions. The only downside is that it may darken the tan a little. Try it on scrap first to see if you get the desired effect. You can use a resist such as resolene ect. to keep the antique off of areas you do not want effected by the antique.

Snubby, the Pink Lady is the same as a Charter Arms Undercover Lite only pink. I have made holsters for the Unercover using a J frame. The only difference is the undercover or Pink Lady have a shroud around the ejector rod.

The difference between the 19, 23 and 32 are calibers the outside of the gun dimensions are the same. The difference betwee 19/23/32 and the 17/22/31 is barrel length. If you have a 19 you can do a holster for a 19 23 or a 32 and if you take into consideration the barrel length you can do one for a 17, 22, 0r 31. I have a 17 and a 19 so with just those two I can make a holster for all of the above listed models. with out consideration for barrel length.

That is correct. The intent is that that blue gun can mold a holster that will fit either of those three models.

Here is a 4' x 8' you can cut down to 7' $119.00 http://www.hhsignsupply.com/productcart/pc/Cutting-Mat-Printed-48-x-96-648p42031.htm

Like Ray said if you want to dye it the dark chocalate will hide most of the water stain. However if you don't want to dye it. I would use a goood leather conditioner such as Skidmores leather cream, Montana Pitch blend, Aussie leather conditioner ect. It will darken the case slightly and it will hhelp even out the water stains. They will still be there but they will mellow out and be part of the character of the sheath. Anything you do will change the color at least slightly. The important thing is to get some nutrients back into the leather. The oil and or the leather conditioner will do that.

That looks like it turned out well.

You are not comming across like a dimwitt you are comming across like some one new to this and overwhelemed with choices and decisions. Every one here has opinions based on there experiences. IF you had money I would say keep trying different ones until you find what ytou like. However like most of us you don't sound like you have an overabundance of spendable assetts. All I can offer you is my experience of 40 years. I have two mauls I use for most of my tooling needs. I used to use a rawhide mallet and about 4 years ago I talked my self into getting two custom made mauls. I have never looked back and in fact just gave my rawhide mallets away to someone who had need for them. All of my rivetting and snap setting is done with a dead blow hammer. Although it is rubber coated it is not the same as using a rubber mallet. I set snaps and or rivets daily and it is done with a dead blow hammer. Your poly mallet will work for tooling for now until you get more experienced. Again what works for me may not work for others.

What you have pictured there is a dead blow hammer. I find them useful for setting rivets ect. They will work for setting a makers mark or an alphabet stamp. They don't work well for me when tooling particularly when you want to walk a tool like a beveler or backgrounder.

Full-grain leather refers to hides that have not been sanded, buffed, or snuffed (as opposed to top-grain or corrected leather) to remove imperfections (or natural marks) on the surface of the hide. The grain remains allowing the fiber strength and durability. The grain also has breathability, resulting in less moisture from prolonged contact. Rather than wearing out, it will develop a patina over time. High quality leather furniture and footwear are often made from full-grain leather. Full-grain leathers are typically available in three finish types: aniline, semi-aniline and napa leather. Top-grain leather (the most common type used in high-end leather products) is the second-highest quality. It has had the "split" layer separated away, making it thinner and more pliable than full-grain. Its surface has been sanded and a finish coat added to the surface which results in a colder, plastic feel with less breathability, and it will not develop a natural patina. It is typically less expensive and has greater resistance to stains than full-grain leather, so long as the finish remains unbroken. Leather BasicsMost leather today is taken from cows because of their size, availability, and exceptional quality of leather. However, depending on the use, leather is also commonly taken from pigs, sheep, deer, horses, and kangaroos. Additionally, some of the more exotic leathers come from alligators, ostriches, elephants, snakes, frogs, and stingrays. Full-Grain Leather vs. Top-Grain LeatherThe strongest and most durable part of the hide of an animal is just below the hair. The grain pattern in this part of the hide is very tight, and the leather made from here is called "full-grain" leather. Full-grain leather is the strongest and most durable leather. Additionally, since the grain is so tight, it resists moisture very well. Over time, full-grain leather will look nicer and nicer and develop a patina from being handled. The next best—and second strongest—leather is called "top-grain" leather. Top grain leather is similar to full-grain leather, except that the top couple millimeters have been sanded and buffed to take away imperfections. With the top layer removed, the leather will have a more uniform finish, but it won't be as durable—and it will break down much faster. This is more of a "cookie cutter" leather that most leather wallets and handbags are made of, which lends to their generic appearance. Top-grain leather can be good leather, but its strength and durability is not even close to the strength of full-grain leather.

It's what you have and what you could afford at the time. It will work. My persoanl preference are maule. I have a 16oz and a 24 oz. For tooling to get started your 16oz willwork. As you develop your skill you will be better able to determine what you want or need for your style. For setting rivets, snaps ect. I would get a 2 lb dead blow hammer from Harbour Freight they are about $6.00 (whoops just realized your not in the states). FOr now keep that hammer and use what money you have to get a few stamps and other tools. You will need a knife if you have a tool kit look and see if you have a utility knife with interchangable blades. Use it, you don't need fancy head knives ect. to get started.