camano ridge

Jlanning. That is exactly what I thought you wanted. My earlier post has not changed. I would take your piece of leather wrap it around the d ring as in your drawing, then place the cord in between the ends of the piece of leather. However I would put enough cord in between the leather to reach to the D ring. You will then have plenty of cord attached to the leather to give a strong hold. Again glue the ends of the leather together sandwiching the cord between the ends and make sure you get glue on the cord as well. Then stitch. If you use the box with an X in it sewing pattern like Tree reapers picture you will stitch through the cord several times and should end up with a fairly strong attachment. I would use a hammer to flatten the ends of the cord that will be sandwiched in between the ends of the leather this will give more area to stich through.

I have to agree with snubby, you need to get a diamond awl or diamond punch. I usually stitch holsters 5-6 spi. When I am doing PC correct holsters I do 7 spi rarely 10 spi. I punch all my wholes with a diamond awl.

If you are using Red label it should be darn near impossible to seperate the two pieces without tearing the leather. On the label is says to let set 30 - 40 minutes before putting the pieces together. I have used it on goat skin calf skin bull hide and so on. If the surface you are gluing to looks like it has any glaze or sheen to it ruough it up a bit with some sandpaper. I have used Weldwood exclusively for better then 5 years.

If you are using weldwood contact cement either the red or green label, you need to apply the glue then let set before joining the pieces. Apply the glue to one piece or one side then apply glue to the otherside or piece. Let sit at least 30 minutes 0or longer depnding on temperature and humidity the glue should feel dry to the touch, not wet, not tacky DRY. You should not have to add another wet coat. Now put the two pieces together press them tightly together some people use a rolling pin I just press with my fingers or palm of my hand. Now leave it alone go do something else for several hours. I preffer to let mine sit overnight. At this point everything should be well glued together. If you try to take it apart you should have to work like Heck to do so, even to the point of tearing. THe green will not be as tuff to break apart as the red lable how ever either one once properly adheared should be hard to get apart. You should not have to apply a super heavy coat. Just enough to completely cover the surface and it should be a fairly even coating on both sides. I have used weldwood on all kinds of leahter even hot stuffed leather (after ruffing the surface with a little sand paper)and never had a problem getting a good glue up. If you are only letting the glue set up for 5 - 10 minutes you are not letting it set long enough.

If I undersdtand you are saying that you want to make a leather piece that goes around the d ring similar to the picture then you want a loop of nylon or leather similar to the picture. I think the picture is pretty self explanatory. Loop your piece of leather around the D ring Using contac cement glue your loop between the two end of your leather that you have wrapped around the d ring. When the glue has dried. Use a hammer and tap lightly to flatten some. Mark your stich holes punc holes and saddle stitch as normal. You can do a stitch pattern similar to the picture and it should give plenty of strength. If you are using something round (you mentioned nylon rope. Ue a hammer t flatten the ends as much as possible ind now follow the same sequence.

A Rohn said I would bevel the edges and burnish. If not over time they will become pretty ragged looking. Other then that it looks very nice.

25b beat me to it. Those are folding hoof picks. They are fairly in expensive here is one place http://www.theoriginalhorsetackcompany.com/solid-brass-folding-hoof-pick-7647-prd1.htm. Also Weaver has them.

If you wear green shirt, green pant and a green jacket it should blend in nicely. Overall holster looks good.

There are several listed on ebay. Also check Macphearsons leather in Seattle WA. They have some shoe making supplies.

Yes they are still available. THey are Lift the-Dot 4 piece fastners. They are manufactured by the Dot company. THe easiest place to find them is if there is a Marine/boat supply place near you. Ordering on line most require a minimum order of 100 and sell the pieces individualy. I found a place on ebay that sells a five pack of all 4 pieces for $15.00 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lift-The-Dot-Stud-Socket-w-Backing-Plates-Black-Oxide-5-Piece-/221312158480?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item33873b8b10&vxp=mtr The issue holster had them either government Black or brass. Either is period correct.

Are you refering to this style snap?

Oxalic acid is usually used to bleach leather, primarily to remove spots and in some case to lighten the color. I am not sure what you mean by using it to finish edges. It is not a finish. Are you looking to wet the edges with oxalic and then burnish, if so what are you trying to accomplish?

IWB inside the waist band holster. It sits between the inside of the waist band of your pants and your body. OWB is outside the waist band. usually worn on the belt.

mike6642, it is an improvment over the first. The stitch line is much closer to the gun. You should have a bit better retention. The only thing I see that I would question and it may just be the angle of the picture. When you go to get a grip on a firearm to unholster it you want to be able to get a full and complete grip. You should not have to reposition the hand or wrap fingers around after the fact. The clearence between the grip and the top of the holster looks a little close.

i don't know of anyone who stocks acrylic horse tack templates, however if you get a hold of blackriverlaser.com and give them patterns they can make the acrylic templates for you. As to black horse tack here is some http://www.grahamequine.com/catalog.php?item=59 these are stitched but ready to be tooled and or dyed. Springfield leather has a few things . http://springfieldleather.com/381/Hardware-Leather-Shapes/

Yeah, unfortunately the wait time is a fact of life unless some one happens to have the blue gun or multi mold in stock. Multimold sayss hey cast theres when ordered hence the wait time.

JLS, here is the thread you were looking for http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=57976 Multimolds has it for the SD 9/40. THe ony thing about multi molds is that they are set primarily for Kydex molding so they have a site chanel and the ejector port is filled in. You can grind away an indent for the ejector port with a dremel. Neither blue guns or duncans show an SD.

I believe this page will show the types of tools you are reffering to http://goodsjapan.com/leathercraft-knives-blades--sharpeners-28-c.asp If you google Traditional Japanese leather craft you will find some video's showing craftsman using the types of knives and other tools you are refering to.

They probably only sell the kits. However they may be able to order just the shafts. No harm in asking.

I agree with Red the stitch line is way too far from the trigger guard and the retention you have now will definately loosen up. You can still add another stitch line.

To clarify you are looking to by just the shafts and not the kit that includes the handle? If you have not already done so call Springfield and see if they can get you just the shafts.

These work well you get 25 per package http://www.arthritissupplies.com/the-gripper.html around 70 cents a piece.

WIndrider, Ihave been making holsters sheath, phone cases ect. for over 40 years. In my opinion you won't find a better stitch then saddle stitch for hand sewing items like yours. As to the Aussie it should work just fine. I us Skidmores to finish all of my holsters sheaths ect. It is very much like the Aussie leather conditioner. If the metal clip is done right you should not have any problem with it comming off the belt if you used a good quality clip. I have done many holster. mag holders ect. with the clips. However body type can play a roll in how well the clip works.

I have not dealt with shippments to Denmark but I have to other countries. When you say it was scanned on November 6 was that at the post office that recieved it from the states. Did it then go to customs. In dealing with shippments to Canada I have had a few instances where it was scanned recieved in Canada then sent to customs, one shippment was stuck in customs for three weeks before it reentered the Canadian postal system. Have you checked with customs?

I use 8-9oz veg tan on most of my sheaths. Here is a good video on making sheaths it is not the exact type you are making but you will get the basics you need https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FbIvs4PWHAA