camano ridge

Not sure Tanglefoottraders is still around. THeir phone number is disconected, the web site has been down for a while and there has beeen no posts or responses to posts on their facebook page since 2013. Unless you have more update infpo Sylvia

This company offer personalized logos on their rivets and burrs. You will need to call for pricing. I imagine there would be a set up fee and minimum requirement. http://indexfasteners.com/product/ykk/burrs.htm I have not ordered the rivets and burrs however I have used several of their other products and have been happy with quality and service.

Contact Bruce Johnson. Good chance he will be able to give you info on it. PM him here http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showuser=29 or go to his web site. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showuser=29

I think Mike 516 was refering to the tyles used as a background it looks like a tiled roof. I think you would get more interest if you had pictures that showed the full die and gave measurements. It would be easier to get some idea of what they are for. One of them looks like it could be an arrowhead, however I have no idea how big or small of an arrowhead it will make.

If black is your main color concern make a batch of vinegaroon, it is not a dye it chemicaly changes the leather. You make it using steel wool and vinegar. A large batch is very cheap to make and goes a long way. It does not wear off. After dipping in the vinegaroon you will see your leather almost instantly turn black. Give it a quick dip in a water and baking sode bath then rub on some neatsfoot oil.You will get a very nice black. If you are not familiar with vinegaroon search the forums here there are several threads or go over to cascity.com forums to the leather shop under the FAQ's How to you will find omaking old time dyes. Lots of information there on vinegaroon.

If you are a reseller for Moore why not contact moore and ask them where they get the burrs.

Roy, thanks for the info. I was hoping you had a supplier I didn't know about. It turned out really nice.

Roy, where did you get the brass rivet and burr you used for the holster swivel? Been looking around and found one place where I can get larger copper rivets and burr. but yours looks nicer.

That non existant pattern exists on Tandys leathercraft Library and is downloadable for $3.99. You can download it onto a thumb drive take it to Kinkos, staples etc. and have them print the pattern you want. https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/p-1210-2662-leather-hat-pattern-pak.aspx

To send a PM click on the persons screen name their profile will come up. The top right hand screen you will see send me a message click and follow the prompt.

Here is an explanation of different tanning processes from Weaver. Including Veg Chrome re tan and Chrome Veg re tan. See the box on the right hand side. http://www.weaverleather.com/Supply/InfoandResources/LeatherTanningProcess.aspx

Nice job. The elepant trim is a nice touch and I like the spice.

I make leather holsters as well and use the Pro PT 111 from Duncans for all three models. You will find that the specs for the Pro PT 111 and the Pro PT 145 are the same length 6.125 width 1.125 and height 5.125. There is just a slight variance in the length of the Pro PT 140.

Duncans has the Taurus Milennium Pro PT 111, it is the same gun (specs are the same) as the PT145 except it is in 9 mm instead of 45. I use the PT 111 to mold both for Kydex just fine. The only question is what generation is the PT 145. There were some erginomic chagnges between the 1st and 2 gen that will make some difference in fit. Multi molds http://www.multiholsters.com/Molds.htm also has the Pro PT 111 and Pro PT 140, again they are the same size annd will work for the 145. I believe Rob at the bluegunstore.com also sells the multi molds and has free shipping.

1725rpm is a good speed. If you can adapt it for the madrel it should work. Find Hidepounders tutorial on burnishing edges. It should help you a lot. It is on theses threads. Can't remember exactly where I will have to look for it. Found it http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18101

Bruce johnson does a good job of answering that question in this thread http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=52207&hl=%2Bdifference+%2Bbetween+%2Bhead+%2Bknife+%2Band+%2Bround+%2Bknife

Nice looking pouch. The skull design is very cool.

Cylee, go to the top of the page below the Leatherworker.net logo you will see a menu select subscriptions and I think most of your questions will be answered. If you need more in depth information PM Johanna, Northmount or any other moderator they can give you specific details.

Take the jacket outside (so you don't spread spores in the house. Wearing a dust mask and gloves use a nylon bristle scrub brush to brush of as much of the mold as possible. Using a solution of equal parts water and alcahol wipe down the jacket with a cloth or sponge dipped in the solution, then wipe again with a damp clean cloth hang out of direct sunlight and allow to dry. If mold is still there use a mild anti bacterial soap and wipe again then wipe with damp clean cloth as a rinse. Again let jacket dry completely. I would not go with oil I would go with a leather conditioner such as Feibings Aussie leather conditioner, Picards, or the one I use the most Skidmores Leather Cream.

It would help if you could post a picture of the knife. A little more information would help. Do you want the knife to sit deep in the sheath or do you want the guard above the top edge of the sheath with a retention strap? Are trying for a certain look? Since you call it dagger like , I assume the edge is sharpened on both sides. If so I would reccomend a full welt. You can easily draw out a pattern lying the knife down on paper draw around the blade and handle staying as close into the knife as possible. Now along the line of the blade draw another line 1/4" out all the way around the blade thei will be the welt and now you have the basic shape of the sheath decide how you want the upper portion of the sheath to look and how you want it to attach to a belt you will have your pattern.

If you google How to make gloves you will find quite a bit of information. Here is one site he talks ablout both gauntlet, Elizabeaten style and modern and shows some patterns, makes thread reccomendations etc. He also has a book for sale on glove making. http://www.glove.org/default.php Here is a book on glove making http://www.pdfclassicbooks.com/crafts-hobbies/leatherworking-leathercraft/how-to-make-gloves-illustrated-instructions-on-making-gloves-in-the-home/prod_421.html

I use a simple 1 ton arbor press from harbor freight under $50.00 I have a plate of metal I lay across the base lay down a properly cased piece of leather, place the embosiing plate design side down on the leather place a piece of metal on top of the embosing. Press down with the arbor press and you will have a very nice well defined impression.

Here is the link http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=58414

Holsters look pretty good. Bunkhouse tool company http://www.shop.bunkhousetools.com/searchquick-submit.sc?keywords=US also has US and CS in two different sizes.

If you meant to attach pictures they did not get attached.