camano ridge

Don left you an answer over on cascity.com

Welcome, glad you are finding the information helpful. As to your edges if you have not yet read this thread http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18101 it is well woth the time it will take you to read it.

If you are refeirng to something like pictured below. It is just a tee nut or chicago screw base, a screw, a cup or finish washer and a piece of rubber gas line hose or similar hose. As you tighten the screw it compresses the hose. The Tee nut will work best as the Chicago screw may rotate when you try to tighten the tension. They are used a lot on kydex holsters. However with a leather holster if they are tightly stitched and properly molded you really don't need a tension screw. Unless you are trying to make a generic holster to fit a couple different gun models or brands.

Are you trying to resist Antiques or are you trying to resist dyes?

Can you post a picture of what you are dealing with.

Tallbald, you have come along way. Nice job.

Alright childeren go to your rooms and behave yourselves before a modeator closes this thread. The OP asked for individual opinions on his situation only not for us to brow beat each other.

The only blue guns that I know of that has caused much problem is some of the GLocks. Your blue gun should not be a problem I have over 100 dummy guns and have had very few problems with any of them. As long as the gun seats fully it is okay if it is tight it will loosen up as it breaks in. If it is to tight after the holster has dried puit the gun or the dummy in a zip loc freezer bag then put the gun bag and all into the holster seat it and let it sit overnight. Remove the gun from the bag and re insert into the holster it should feel better. What you don't want is for the gun to sit loosely in the holster even with a thumb break. Who did you order your S&W Ve 9 from. The only one that I found that currently makes a mold for the Ve 9 is Multimolds. If you did get a multi mold be aware they are made primarily for kydex molding. For leather depending on how detailed molding you want to do. You may want to remove the sight chanel and open the ejection port a little.

If you go to the patterns forum and search for Doctors bag pattern there is a thread a guy has a pattern he will share. To bad you didn't know before you took the one apart. Heres the thread just incase you want the pattern PM butch he will get it to you. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=14948&page=8

While your at it you can tell them where you want a gift certificate for.

ChiefStealth are you going to the Tacome store?

Very Nice. Is the wolf laser cut?

I have a 1911 5" holster mold from Bunkhouse tools and it works just fine for most 1911 5". However there are some such as Sigs and Kimbers that have there own quircks. However most of the ones trying to be 1911 look alikes will be close enough to being the same. I have made holsters for Rock Island, STI, Norinco and a couple of others without any problem.

I will look and see if I have a pattern for that one. However a couple of ideas, do you have the gun? You said this is a replacement holster, do you have access to that holster that you can use as a pattern? You said when you apply the pattern to the leather it is tight. If you have the gun or a dummy gun I assume you will wet mold when you make the holster. If so you want the holster tight enough that you have to force the gun into the holster. THe leather will stretch and form around the holster. Someone else on these forums was recently making a holster for this gun.

My feeling is it is your work you have a right to sign it and claim it as your work just like any other artist. I know some people don't like the makers mark on the front where it is plainly visible. Ask yourself why would anyone have a problem with the mark on the back where it won't be seen by anyone unless they are handling the holster. I would just tell him I will be happy to make the holsters for you however nothing leaves my shop without my mark, I will but it in the least conspicuous place possible. See what his response to that is. He will either agree, say no deal or be insistent that it not have the mark. If he insisted strongly that it not have a makers mark I would be very suspiscious and probably walk away.

If you are looking for something like pictured below contact Bruce Johnson http://brucejohnsonleather.com/ (sorry Bruce for borrowing your copyrighted picture, best way to show your wares.)

ChiefStealth, welcome to the forums. We will be looking forward to seeing your first project.

I agree with all the things peter said. It also looks like you cut a slot on both sides of the hole for thestud. The slot should be cut on only one side and it should be the side oposite of where andy tension will be if the strap is pulled against the stud when keeping the knife in place. In this case it should have been cut only on the handle side of the stud. I also think rounding or shaping the end of the retention strap would give a more esteticaly pleasing look. When I fold the belt loop over the front like you did, I have it long enough to come down to meet the the piece I would have between the knife blade and the back of the sheath (to build up the thickness like Peter said. I would also skive down the end of the belt loop so it would lay pretty close to flush. That way you would not have any opportunity for any thing to hang up on the bottom edge of the belt loop. In your case the hilst looks pretty smooth so probably won't be a problem. However a different style knife with a more pronounced ledge on the hilt could be a problem. Looks like CG posted while I was typing. Pretty much the same thing.

Josh, your work looks great as usual. One question, the blood knot on the back of the skirt does that loop through the holster?

I oil most of my items after I dye. The dying process can remove some of the nutrients in the leather and you will notice after dying the leather is stiffer and dryer feeling. I use a little oil. Resolene will work fine on a sling. It helps give a bit of water proofing. Slings if they are used for carrying a rifle for hunting ect. can see some adverse weather conditions.

Are you trying to screw the snap tp a t-nut? If you don't have to have the allen head and phillips will work Tandy and other sources have screws made to fit in the line 24 snap for that purpose. https://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/11383-00.aspx

Looks good Snubby. Looks like it keeps the gun reasonable close into the body.

Harley the Buckle Guy has them http://www.buckleguy.com/loops-and-sliders/ I think I have seen them at Tandy's and I have gotten them at Lowes or Home depot as well.

50/50 by weight. His looks like he uses a little less oil and ends up closer to shoe policsh consistency then rubs it on (you will want to let it set up a little) the buffs it out. Similar products, Skidmores leather cream a mix of oils and beeswax, Montan pitch blend a mix of bees wax oils and pine pitch. As to the finish it is a mellow glow. I use it on gun belts and holsters, espescially where a period correct finish for the 1800's is needed. If you want more shine top coat it with Kiwi neatral shoe polish.

Looks like Bees wax and oil probably neetsfoot oil, however looking at the cap he was using it could even have been olive oil. I usually use neatsfootwhen I make a batch like that. Hardened into the round block. Spread on then buffed by hand