camano ridge

When you say skeleton holster if you are refering to something like pictured below, except for a semi auto. The last spring clips I bought were from River Junction Trade Company. Try them if they no longer carry them. I will look and see if I still haev any around.

Her is another tid bit of advice. WHen he gets the completed holster if it does fit a little snug. Have him put the gun in a Freezer zip loc bag then insert the gun and bag into the holster fullly seating it and leaving it in the holster overnight. Then remove the gun from the bag and re insert the gun into the holster. The fit should be better. Looking forward to seeing it when your done.

When you do your next holster if you have the glock rely on it more then the blue gun for fitting. Glocks are one area where the blue gun has been frequently under sized (depending on the model) and has caused firt problems. We will be looking forward to seeing the next one.

The holsters look good. Both the front and back stitches look very good.

I think you will find that the Austin double shoulders will not wet mold well because of the oils and finish already on them. They are more for belts and straps. You can make messanger cases and similar items with them but they do not mold or tool well. You would be better off using veg tanned then finishing it with a water proofing either of your own mix or something line Sno Seal or Skidmores Bees Wax Waterproofing. I make all of my slings, rifle scabbards and so on out of veg tanned and they hold up well.

Bennelson, since you have not done any leather work and have no tools I would suggest getting a kit or two from Tandy to start with. Although I don't particularly like tandy kits, all of the holes are pre punched and usually to larege. However it will give you a basic idea of how things go together and you can learn the basics of saddle stitching, using two needles and one piece of thread. THe reason for this is you will get an idea if this is the course you want to persue before you throw a lot of money into it. WHen you goto get the tools and leather you need to do your projects that you want to do you are going to have sticker shock. A side of veg tanned leather is going to be $200.00-$300.00, jus the basics for saddle stitching, overstitch wheel/stitch marker, stitch groover, and diamond awl will be $ 50.00 to $70.00+, you will also need needle and thread. If you go the pricking iron route you will easily spend a hundred dollars or more for a set of pricking irons. Take a look at some of the you tube videos by Ian Atkins and Niegel Armitage, also look at the free videos on the Tandy leathercraft library. They will give you an idea of what you are in for. Not trying to discourage you just trying to prepare you.

You do not say if you have any experience at all, if yo have done anyt projects or what tools you currently have. I would reccomend starting with a wallet then the journal. It will give you an idea of the basics and if this is the way you want to go. You don't say how many pieces of luggage you will be making. It might be quite an undertaking to get them done in three months if you are doing this on the side. I would reccomend getting the Stohlman books on making cases. The patterns are dated however the techniques and information will be applicable to what you want to do. Search these forums for patterns for your duffles backpacks and so on. WIll you be machine stitching or hand stitching?

Samar, as always the details in your carving are outstanding.

Double Tap, I have been doing leather work for over 40 years for most of that 40 I used a rawhide mallet. About 7 years ago I decided to switch to a maul. I picked up a used tandy maul. Then a few years ago i bought two custom made mauls from Bearman Mauls. My mallets have laid around collecting dust since then. A few months ago someone needed mallets for a boyscout group so I went through my shop, collected and sent to him evey rawhide or poly mallet I could find. The only thing I have onmy bench besides my mauls is a dead blow hammer. I believe they are better for most things. Some people shy away from them because they think there is a learning curve. I found there use to be pretty much intuitive. However as mentioned above it is a personal preference and if possible you shouldtry out straight wall, tapered maul, and other mallets and compare for yourself to see what fits you and your style best. I am not saying buy all of them and try them, just check local leather supply stores they should have some you can try out. Also check with other leather artisans in your area to see if you can try what they have.

Do you have any information as to brand? Wht is the maximum thickness of leather that can be run through it?

Cleanview, looks like it came out pretty nice.

I have used veg tanned pig as a liner. Most of the time I just use two piece of leather glued flsh side to fleshside. This gives you a smooth side inside and outside of the holster. It also helps give a good firm holster. You can always dye the inside of the holster what ever color you want.

Looks like the closest Tandy to you is in Herinco VA looks like around 90 miles or so. They have some classes. You started out right by ending up here. Welcome to the forums. You will find patterns on these forums for the things you mentioned you want to make. Ones you decide on a first project we can help you out with a list of what you will need to get started. It is best to start with what you need for a first project then build from there as you identify your needs.

Shooter, very nice collection of exotics. They all look great.

Not telling you not to it is your choice. However I never line my holsters with suede. The reason being is that suede is some what like a sponge, It will soak up any oils from the gun and collect powder residue from the gun as well as other grit and grime. It can become like sand paper and harm the finish of the gun over time.

What length are you using now? WHen I need to put snaps in leather and don't have snaps with long enough shafts I use a forstner bit in my drill press. I use a bit just a hair larger then the slap base. I punch a hole as normal where i want the snap thenwith the leather flesh side up I line up the center point of the forstner bit with the center of the [punched hole. I gently lower the bit down on the leather making sure I have a good hold on the leather gently lower the bit into the leather monitoring the depth. Check the depth until you have enough room to use the snaps that you have.

JLS, looking good so far can't wait to see it completed.

This video shows all sides and angles of the case. Gives a pretty good idea how to build your own.

WIld Bill, thank you for your over kind words. It was a fun build.

Thanks for the link. Pricy little guys they want $390.00 for that one.

Not a problem. May I ask where that picture came from, I would like to see a larger version of it?

Are you looking for just the sling or the case also? The sling looks like just an adjustable strap you can put any kind of snap hooks on. If you are refering to the case, easy enought to make your own pattern to fit your camera. Ste your camera down on a file folder or poster board draw the outline of the camera then draw the shap of the bottom/back of case drawing the shape you. In the picture it looks like theback or bottom of the case is double thickness leather glued and sewen together with loops for D rings. For the top part of the case just sit the camera on the bottom piece then take a piec of file folder or what ever you are using and wrap it around the camera lens and body until it touches the bottom piece on each side draw lines to cut the pattern to the shape of the camera as in the picture. You now have the patternfor the two primary pieces of the case place straps where you want them. It looks like the part covering the lens is closed at the end. By leaving it open you can use different length lenses. Hope this helps. I don't have a pattern but that is how I would make one. looking at the picture I just might have to make a pattern and a case for my camera.

The points on my marking wheels are a bit sharper looking then the ones on your wheel. The type of leather you are trying to mark can play a roll in how distinct the marks come out. Try dampening the leather a bit and see if it makes a difference for you if you dampen the leather evenly it won't hurt anything..

I will normaly dampen my leather just a little before I use my stitch marker, however even on dry leather it usualy leaves enough of a mark to see. Can you post a picture of what you are using?

Very creative. There is nothing for size comparison, how tall are the bears?