camano ridge

There is a member of these forums goes by Jared has a company called Deffensive Carry Concepts he and his partner started makinbg some as they were able to get guns. I have bought a couple from him. Not sure what their process is but what I have gotten from them has been high quality. I know he said the material to make them is not cheap. You might try contacting him and see if he will share info. Like Dwight I have made several out of wood. What brand and model are you trying to do?

First thing we need to carify what dye you are using. Eco Flo is Tandy's water based dye. Yes you can use a coarse cloth with alchol, you will only lighten the color you will not remove it completely. You could also try oxalic acid it will bleach leather and again will probably only lighten the color not remove it completely. You are not going to be able to go from dark brown to light tan type of change. What color did you dye it and what color do you want to change to. One thing in using dyes does not matter if it is Fiebings or Eco FLo I thin my dyes and then apply light coats until I get the look I want.

Cleanview, what brand and model light is it?

SInpac, that turned out great. Good looking Slim Jim.

You should be good, the M1 is 4" barrel 9mm the M2 is 4.2" barrel .40 cal

JLS, if you are asking if the Blue gun is a PPQ M1 or and M2, the picture of the blue gun is of an M1. THe primary differences are that the slide on the M2 is slightly longer then the M1. If you look at the M@ the front of the slide below the barrel angles back slightly toward the trigger guard. THe font of the M! is squared off. The really noticable difference is that the M1 has the amadextrious european mag release on the triger guard. THe M2 has the more traditional mag release button on th grip behind the trigger guard. THe picture of the blue gun does not show the button it appears to be the european style. Which would be the M1

If you are just doing the wet sponge on the face of the leather once you get the leather wet you wait until the color has prety much returned to normal put the leather feels cool against the face. On the other hand if you want to do a real thorough job casing the leather read this thread it has a lot of excellent information. I am doing a large project like a belt or holster stc. I wet my leather put it in a zip loc freezer bag put it in the refrigerator over night take it outof the bag and lay it out wait until it starts to return to normal color then begin tooling.

Sinpac did you see the ones Jim Simmons poster the other day. On the following thread http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=60953 post # 17 it is a pdf file with a couple of slim Jim floral patterns. I think I have a couple drawn up down in the shop I will see what I can find tomorrow.

Check with this guy, formely Timco www.sxindustries.com Of course it goes without saying that if you are ordering custom you should plan on ordering quantity and there may be a set up fee. They do custom work

Rohn, your ox blood looks good. When ever I try ox blood it always ends up looking pink.

JLeigh, welcome to the forums. Look forward to seeing your first project. I don't know how familiar you are with leather suppliers in your area, thought I would mention besides Tandy which for you is going to be Shoreline or Tacoma/Parkland. There is also MacPehrsons Leather in Seattle .519 12th ave S off Yesler.

Do you mean using a pattern to make an item and then selling that item? If so the answer is yest. people buy patterns and make items from that pattern to sell all the time. The problem you run into with patterns is when you make an exact copy of that pattern and try to sell that pattern or give it away. Most copywrights say cannot be sold or ditributed, if you are giving it away you are distributing it.

Contact Bruce Johnson. http://brucejohnsonleather.com/leather-tools-sale/knives-and-handled-cutting-tools-sale/ The knife you get from him is sharp and ready to use.

Dragonhawke it is the Items for sale section under books/patterns http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=61095

SOunds like your not quite ready yet. put a little olive oil or neatsfoot on it and see if it darkens up more for you. Also how long did you leave the leather in the roon? Also different leathers react differently.. Some take longer to color. Some need extra tannins to develop a good black. Dipping leather in a strong tea first can help get the rich color you want. THe tea puts more tannins in the leather, it is the tannins that react with the roon to give the black.

Bruno they turned out great.

Rooster the idea is not to pancake them as you put it initialy. You want to put the holster together with the tension screw so that there is not a lot of pressure on the rubber initialy. THis leaves you a range in which you can tighten the tension screw down to give desired tension. Some people make so initialy the rubber is compressed about halfway. This leaves you adjustment either way if you want to lighten the tension or tighten the tension.

Glockinator here is a IWB pancake that I made so it could also be worn as an OWB. The principle for cross draw would be the same just adjusting the belt slots to get the apropriate angle for a cross draw. Your challenge is going to that it is a smaller holster and won't give you as much realestate to play with.

Like TwinOaks said when it stops disolving steelwool and whenthe vinegar odor is gone or minimal you are probably there. Don't worry about the color I have seen from blackish to amber to brown. As long as it works color of the solution is not important. THe best test is to dip a piece of leather in it for a few minutes if you get color changes your pretty much there.

I have been asked to mak mags on the holster as well, I never see much reason in it. For concealed carry I guess the reason to carry an extra mag is if you get in a fire fight and are a bad aim you can put in a new mag. However you have to switch the gun to the weak side hand to complete the mag change. Hopefully the other guy has to change mags at the same time. I was taught to shoot back when six rounds was the max unless you had a 1911. I was taught that if you have not hit what your aming at in six rounds and they have not hit you in six rounds you might as well just throw the guns at each other.

Josh as always your craftsmanship is great and the holster look good. However they look pretty bulky for concealed carry.

Welcome from just south of the border from you. Pick out a few starter projects you want to do and we can guide you in tool selection etc. It is easy to buy stuff you don't need. Start out with the basics and build as you identify your needs.

Your welcome. Sorry we could not help you on a more positive note.

You can buy the kits from old Faithful holsters, however its alot cheaper to by the pieces your self. Here is a picture of all you need. You can buy a lot of it at local hardware, Big box or auto parts store. THe cup washers are also called finish washers. It is cheaper and easier to buty a piece of hose from an auto supply place you can cut your own pieces to the length you want. There are many place on line to buy what you need. Here is one supplier http://www.ifithermoplastics.com/category/fasteners

Here is a video on beveling. THere are many bevelers available. I you are just starting you can pick up one at Tandy. If you go to Tandy web site and go to the leathercraft library there are many free videos that will show you the basics.