camano ridge

It looks like it is hot stamped with foil. Theres is probably done by machine.

CYber thrasher, not sure if something happened to her dye. as I use the Ecoflo dye as my exclusive black dye it has no to very little rub off unlike USMC black. My Ecoflo Pro black is liquid not thick or gel like at all. Studawg03 I prefer to use a sponge, just my personal preference. I have more of a problem getting an even coat with a dauber.

I would have to agree with knazim. I have used the ECOflo PRO dyes for over 2 years. They are water based with no acrylic in them. I have been very happy using it. I also have angelus dyes and agree that they are very intense colors and need to be thinned. My questionfor the OP is what part of the hide are your belts being cut from the belly or the backs?

I don't have any right now however Zack White sells them for $1.20 http://www.zackwhite.com/Roller-Buckles_c_62-4-0.html

If you think it will save time I don't believe it will. I just put a little oit on a rag or even my fingers rub a light coat on and your done. With tha air brush you pour it in your resavoir spray it and take about as much time as rubbing it on. Now you have to clean it up. If you don't it may have an affect the next time you spray dye on something.

Have you gone to settings and checked notifications to see if something has changed?

End nippers are what i use. I put the cutters down against the burr and it cuts at just about the right height. They are about 6- 10.00 depending on where you get them Harbor freight does have them. Mine are from home depot. One trick I learned is not to cut them in one cut. I take a partial cut then rotate the nipper around the rivet and take another partial cut rotate again a little and cut through. Only take a few extra seconds. It setsw it up so that it will peen nicely and the stub will be ncely rounded.

Are you refering to the tool marks in the beveled areas?

The Gun sling Kits is that supposed to be the gunsliner holster and belt kits?

There is some one in the forsale section selling Herman Oak scrap for $5.00 per pound. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=51825

Red Cent, it is a duncans. I just checked their inventory list and it shows the S&W M&P Full size. I believe that is the one you want it is the same size and has the thumb safety. You might call or email them and check. I believe that it will work for either the 40 or 9 FUll size with thumb safety.

Red other then the thumb safety on the 9 I don't see any real discernable differences. Width of both is 1.2", Height 5.5" length 7.63". Hope this helps.

I will go down to my shop and compare I have both. Get back to you in just a bit.

Looking pretty good. Put that one next to the first one you showed and see how far you have come.

Don't know exactly what you are looking for here are a couple of ideas. The third picture a customer wnated a bandolier or baldric type shoulder belt andholster for a flintlock that would have the look of late 1700s early 1800s. He wanted a retention strap but did not want snaps. I came up with a antlet tine and sliding antler button.

Take a kook over at the muzzleloading forums search in accroutaments and the craftsman foumsshould be able to find some ideas there. http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/fusionbb.php

Vaalpens, actually most of my holsters are lined. Two layers of leather glued and stitched together. again just give them a dunk then instert holster into loop and then form and do any final molding. Makes no difference for the most part wether they are lined or unlined.

Jared, thanks for the reply. Is that S&W the same as the S&W 1911. Is that one that you make or is that a duncan mold? I checked there most recent inventory and did not see that on there list.

Josh, beat me to it. It would be almost like dealing with a mexican loop. Pre fit your loop around the holster to get a tight fit mark your holes for the rivets on the loop and the strap. Rivet the strap in place. Wet the holster and bend slide into loop just like Josh said then do any final molding.

If you are getting tooling marks from your bevelers (as staed small ones can be a pain). Check to make sure your leather is properly cased and not to wet.If you still get marks go back over the beveled are with modeling spoon it should smooth things out nicely.

I have a fairly large shop and have several benches I bought on of these Harbor Freight benches about 2 years a go and use it more then any of the others.

Cave, that is an improvement over the first one pictured in this post. I can't tell is there a stitch line right above the slide? As chiefjason said you might want to cut away a little leather right behind the trigger guard to uncover the mag release. If you don't depending on the gun there is a chance that in holstering the weapon you could hit the mag release against the holster. Nothing more embarassing then pulling out your pistol and having the mag hit the floor at your feet. Keep working on it, with each one you will see an improvement and as you learn the basics you will become your own worse critic and continue to find things to improve.

Generaly, I say 3 weeks when I am not overly busy, Right now I am telling them at least 5 weeks as I have several orders. On a custom holster you do need to consider pattern making cutting dying oiling, wet molding drying final finish and so on. I generaly tell them three weeks even if I am not real busy, this gives some oops time and if I get it to the customer early they are far more thrilled then if I get it to them a little late.

When You wet mold you wil be able to shape and smooth your curve out. It will work just fine.

If properly cased you leather will look a little darker in the tooled areas. You are compressing the leather in the tooled area and in a way you are somewhat burnishing the leater as you move the tool over the surface of the leather. If you oil and sun tan the leather you will get a little bit more pronounced darkening. To realy get the contrast you would use a resist on the raised or untooled areas and then use a high liter or antique to darken the cuts and depressions then wipe off the excess leaving the untooled or raised areas lighter.