Bob Blea

Yes, I think it leaves sweat stains

I live in the high plains desert and have this problem all the time. I keep all my projects in bags and try to only bring out what I'm currently working on. Also, I've started using plastic wrap to cover areas I'm not working on while they are out of the bag. Also, something I've found that really seems to help is adding glycerine to my casing water. It supposedly helps keep the moisture in the leather. I just finished carving a legal sized notebook that was full floral on the front and basket stamped on the back. It took almost two weeks to complete and other than using a sponge to add moisture along the edges and corners where it was drying out, I only once added moisture to the rest of the carving. It seems to make a big difference adding the glycerine, at least from my experience. Bob

Now that's an office I could live with! Bob

Really great work. I especially love the artwork on that purse, but they are both great! Bob

I don't think the repost would be a problem, and I think they would be the best people here to talk to. Bob

I've never made armor but if you are molding or carving this leather, you will need Veg Tan leather. I don't know how much leather you will need, but I would guess you will need more than a side of leather to cover this much area. Plus, you will probably need some extra leather to work out your process, bugs and techniques before you can make finished products. As far as a good source, Springfield Leather (a sponsor here) would be a good source to work with for any of your needs. Hope this helps, bob

Hello Robert, You are right that I am suggesting to not strike the next tool impression right up against the center bar of the previous one. Because we are human and can't space them perfectly each time, you need a little wiggle room between stamps to allow for variation. If you tried to stamp them right next to each other as close as possible, you would come to a point where you make a slight mistake and stamp one impression a bit off. That forces the next stamp to cut into the center bar of another basket weave because the one before it is slightly off. The problem will compound itself on each row that follows. Since we're all human and can't be perfect, it's better to give yourself some leeway and stamp the next stamp a slight bit over. The key is to make that distance consistent on every stamp, which is easier said than done. Once you do, your basket stamps will line up in neat rows in any direction. I haven't reached that Nirvana yet, so I still have a lot to learn! Bob

Really nice Mike, the eagle came out great and love how the numbers stand out. That's some good control with the dye. Bob

Thanks all, the customer was thrilled with it too.

Yes, a coaster is about the right size. You want something you can easily tool in one sitting and that gets you practice at the basics: cutting, beveling, shading, etc.

Brian, you are motivated and now you have tools, so that's a good place to start. Here's some advice I was given when I was starting off carving. Start with a simple carving pattern and some scrap leather. I was using a craftaid floral corner design. Carve and tool that design, then take a good look at what you've made and decide what you like and don't like. Then, make another of the same thing. Repeat that process five times. You will find your work has improved tremendously by the time you do it the fifth time. Also, in case you haven't run across this recommendation yet, make sure your swivel knife is sharp. If yours is a Tandy knife they don't come from the store as sharp as you need. Good luck and post pictures, we'll be glad to help you out. Bob

Hello Sjohnsone, I think I can describe how to do this, at least how I do it. Measure your book and find it's height, width and thickness. Each cover will be the height and width plus some margin for sewing, lacing, etc, plus the thickness of the leather. Around the top, bottom and side you will want to allow 1/2 inch to (preferably) 3/4 inch on each side for sewing or lacing. Along the spine allow 1/8 inch for the thickness of the leather. This is how you make each side of the cover. To make the spine use the same height as the front and back cover. The spine part width will be the thickness of the book plus 1/8 inch on each side to allow for the thickness of the leather. Add that all together and you have the size of the veg tan cover. The liner pieces will be the same size but if I understand what you are doing, you will make pockets in the front and back to hold your book. Hope this makes sense. I don't have a picture handy of this but could make one if it will help. Bob

Very impressive for a first project! That's jumping off the deep end. My first project was a checkbook, and it didn't look that good. Bob

Nice saddle, I like the border you used on it. Bob

Great looking saddle bags! Bob

Thanks gentlemen!

Thanks Jazznow!

Thank you Benlilly and keplerts, I enjoyed doing it. I'm going to start making other clutch purses, this one went over so well. Bob

Hello all, This was a clutch purse I made for a customer recently. She had a floral belt that she liked and wanted a similar design on the purse. The belt was just a flowing design with leaves done in the Sheridan style, so I came up with a purse design that was the same kind of leaf. The interior is a Tandy kit. She had seen a similar purse my wife had made and wanted that specific interior, so I ended up using the Tandy kit guts with my own leather exterior. I also used round holes for the lacing just to match the ones pre-punched in the interior. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, and my customer was thrilled with it. She was raving about all the detail. Thanks for looking and any comments or critiques are welcome. Bob

Hi Dave, I've never made a seat myself so I am not talking from experience, but I will take a stab at this. I would dye the seat and then buff it until I was not getting any more rub off from the dye. Then I would apply the acrylic paint details, then I would seal it with Resolene. Once you have done all that I don't think you will need to worry about dye rubbing off, but maybe I'm overlooking something. Bob

The most recent issue of the Leather Crafters and Saddlers Journal had an article on resizing cowboy boots, though I'm not sure it will help you with what your after. In that article the boot maker took them apart and made them smaller, I believe. Bob

Those look great! And congratulations on all that business. Having repeat customers is the best sign of success! Bob

Where are you located? In the US, Springfield Leather or Sheridan Leather Outfitters (both sponsors here) can provide whatever you need. Bob

Thomas, I can recommend visiting either of the trade shows put on by the Leather Crafters and Saddlers Journal: http://leathercraftersjournal.com/tradeshows.html I have taken classes the past few years at the Sheridan show and found them very helpful. They have many options for classes on different specialties by some of the best in the business. Bob

Hello Sassy1, and welcome to the forum. I have heard the same thing and I knew I had seen some discussions on here regarding using chrone tanned leathers around metals. I did a little searching and found a couple of discussions in the holser making groups. This one seemed to have a pretty good discussion of the issue. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=14710&hl=+chrome%20+tan%20+lining%20+leather#entry90483 Since you are likely to store a knife in a sheath, sounds like the chrome tanned leather would be a bad choice long term. Bob