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Northmount

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  1. Northmount
    Some related helps http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=56138&p=360338 http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=24009&p=153039 Tom
  2. Northmount
    According to his IP address, his ISP is Bellsouth, registered in Atlanta Ga, so that gives a little info about his general location. SE USA. Tom
  3. Northmount
    I have a Techsew 2700 which is the same as a 227. Does a great job. Added a flat table adapter for doing flat work. If you use 8 oz or thicker, or hard temper, you will want speed reducer pulleys to allow slow stitching and have the torque you want to punch through the leather. Tom
  4. Northmount
    As you have found, you need to hold the tails, both the needle thread and the bobbin thread for 3 or 4 stitches. That is a requirement for most leather sewing machines. Tom
  5. Northmount
    Geek or not, great work, great diagnostics. Much appreciated. Users need to remember to keep enough outer foot pressure to keep the leather from lifting as the needle rises, else you'll be into skipped stitches ... You don't need a lot of extra pressure. It will vary with leather thickness and temper, as well as needle size. Tom
  6. Northmount
    Uploaded file here Singer-Class-111-Instructions.pdf Anytime you need larger files uploaded, < 128 MB, PM me and we'll figure out how to get them to me so I can upload them here. Tom
  7. Northmount
    If you do a search for wood grain, you will find a number of threads with some really neat photos. Tom
  8. Northmount
    Pics are there. All you have to to see if it worked is to refresh the page after you have finished your post.And they look pretty nice! Tom
  9. Northmount
    Try reversing just after the needle has started to rise, so the hook has had a chance to catch the loop. Tom
  10. Northmount
    Really great to have you back. As many of us are finding out, aging is no friend! Take care. Tom
  11. Northmount
    I am carrying a wallet laced with goat lace. 1/8" in 3/32" slits. Has been in my back pocket everyday for over 20 years. Lace still looks great. And when the corners start to wear out, I'll re-lace it, If I'm still around! Tom
  12. Northmount
    Copper and brass both corode when in a moist environment and don't have a protective coating. Called verdigris. There is another thread here about the process if you want to do a search for it. Also look at copper roofs. I have some old harness where some of the copper rivets are green and others that are just dull. Depends on the amount of moisture each is subject to. Tom
  13. Northmount
    The type of leather you use should be determined by its application. Not by your sewing machine. "I" would get a replacement middle presser foot spring and try it. If little or no improvement, then I would take one of the springs and cut a 1/4" off of it and try again. Keep removing a 1/4" until you get the adjustment range that you want. Make it work for you. Tom
  14. Northmount
    See this post Tom
  15. Northmount
    Always used to wear a wool knitted mitten inside my leather mitts. Can take them out to clean or dry if necessary. Tom
  16. Northmount
    Since it has too much oil, try burying it in either cornstarch, or kitty litter, or floor-dry to absorb the oil. Mix it up a couple times a day and see what happens after a week. It may or may not work to reduce the color, but will absorb oil. Tom
  17. Northmount
    Ordinary white PVA glue. It remains flexible. If you use yellow glue, it doesn't stay flexible, and every time you flex the item, you will hear it crack. Still holds, but the cracking is annoying and may bother your clients. Tom
  18. Northmount
    No. That is the inside foot spring. The outside foot is about half way along the arm towards the back. It contacts a flat spring that is the spring for the outside foot. You can see the spring from the back of the machine. If you follow it, you will see it connects to the linkage for the outside presser foot. You really need to get the manuals for this machine so you can see what the parts are, and how they are used or adjusted. I downloaded the manuals from keystone some time in the past, but can't find them on his site anymore. Consew used to have a good site too, but I looked there as well, but didn't find the right link. Gregg's is a clean copy, easier to read than the others I've found. Tom
  19. Northmount
    Ask Gregg at Keystone for a link to his parts list and manual. Both are identified in the parts list. Tom
  20. Northmount
    Does it dim the lights only on one circuit, or in the whole house? If the whole house, you have a problem with your electrical supply from your breaker panel out to the utility. If it is only one one circuit, you may have too many items on that circuit, even though running less than 15 A. Though another possibility is a poor connection anywhere from your breaker (either side of it) to your receptacle you are plugged into. I have seen poor connections on the breaker to the bus bar it is attached to. I have also seen loose connections/terminals in receptacles in the string between the one you are using and the breaker. Fun to trace when you can't see the cabling! Another possibility is aluminum wiring improperly installed, or mismatched with the receptacle terminal screws or the breaker terminal screw. Sometime you will hear buzzing or a crackling sound. The poor quality joint heats up and may cause a fire. I was wondering about the motor capacitor, but the motor runs so may be is okay. Tom
  21. Northmount
    I think you will have less mess or fewer accidents if you do one join at a time. You won't be rushing and mis-position one or the other. Plus, I'm not a fan of having wet glue (if you are using contact cement) on both sides of the stiffener at the same time. Where to you lay it to set to a slight tack with cement on both sides. If you can do things in steps, without rushing, you will do a better overall job. Tom
  22. Northmount
    Pull both threads through to the back. If the back is normally not visible, I put a drop of super glue on it, and cut close. Some tie the thread on the back, some melt it with a hot iron, or a lighter flame. I've started leaving the threads long at the start and finish, then using the saddle stitch to back stitch. Works a little nicer IMO. Also nice if you can hide the threads between layers. Tom
  23. Northmount
    Thanks for the repost. I'm sure many people appreciate it. Now I can see the work, must say it is very good. Tom
  24. Northmount
    Picture 3 loads, the others just have the busy loading icon, forever. Even on a 30 Mbps connection. Server connection must be too slow when I try it. 800 x 600 resolution is adequate resolution for LW. Helps out people on slow connections, especially out in the fringes. Tom
  25. Northmount
    Dye doesn't soak right through in most cases. Most of the pigment is in the surface. Do all your cutting and trimming before you dye it, else go back and touch it up after. In most cases, the touch up will not be a perfect match. Tom
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