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Northmount

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Everything posted by Northmount

  1. Show us some of your new work! Tom
  2. Nice looking bag and Oak Leaf. Tandy sells "Craftaids" with all sorts of carving/tooling patterns. Tom
  3. As mentioned in one of the posts, observe what the needle and hook are doing so you can decide what action you need to take. I try to make turns either as the needle is entering the leather or just before it exits. Also not to lift the presser foot too high and lose the top tension. Tom
  4. Located near Autin Tx according to the IP Address. Tom
  5. From the OP's IP Address, he is likely located in Southern California. Tom
  6. See Kevin King's tutorial making a wallet. Comments call it a rolled edge, french roll, bound edge. I think that french roll is the correct name. Here is another rolled edge. Single layer, not bound. Tom
  7. And you are located where?
  8. I read a post some time ago where the poster stopped the lining just before the end of the buckle flap. Couldn't find it with my searches though. This will give you the same, or nearly the same thickness for the whole belt, and reduces the bulk around the buckle and keeper. Tom
  9. Be careful with linseed oil. Raw linseed oil never dries, stays sticky and gummy. Boiled linseed oil has driers or other chemicals added to it so it will dry. Tom
  10. A little info here Also look at this page http://www.montanapitchblend.com/our-story.html Tom
  11. Coat both ends with something (like tar or similar product) to stop the ends drying out before the rest dries. Moisture wicks up the grain to the ends. Stop that and it dries slower and less risk of cracking and splitting. I have a neighbor that does a lot of woodturning. He puts the logs (cut to lengths he uses) into a box full of sawdust and wood shavings. Slows down and equalizes the drying process. Needs to be stirred up every few days to get rid of some moisture and to bring some fresh air in. Tom
  12. I pass through Claresholm every now and then. Sunday and Monday this week. There are a number of members in the Calgary area. Show us some of your work. We're always interested in photos. Tom
  13. Where in Alberta? And welcome to the forum Tom
  14. If you tell people where you are located, you might find some interest or help near by. Tom
  15. FYI, Via post to my profile, he is located in Lindsay, Ontario. Tom
  16. Welcome to the forum and addiction. Hope to see some of your work soon. What type of work are you interested in doing? What part of the world are you from? Tom
  17. Here are some links about copyright and fair use I came across this morning. They contain good information and "lots of opinion". Helps to define fair use, derivative works, transformation, etc. After reading them, it appears we should give credit to the originator even though our work may be very transformative. For example, it we take someone's photograph, convert it to a line drawing, use that as a tracing pattern to tool a piece of leather, we should give credit to the originator, even though there is really no copyright infringement due to the transformative nature of our work. It is good etiquette. Further, the originator should be asked for their permission, again as good etiquette. http://blogs.scientificamerican.com/compound-eye/infringement-or-fair-use-have-a-look/ http://blogs.scientificamerican.com/compound-eye/infringement-or-fair-use-part-ii-the-opinioning/ http://bizarrocomics.com/2013/07/21/fly-by-drawing/ Tom
  18. Nice job. Red purses really stand out. Tom
  19. Check the links listed in the OP. They state cost, date and location. Tom
  20. They are a reaction between iron and the tannins in the leather. Just like vinegaroon used to make vegtan leather black. You can use oxalic acid or lemon juice to bleach it out. Cause is little specs, filings of iron on the surface of your wood or dropped on the leather. Keep all filings etc. away from your leather working area. Tom
  21. If the leather is lifting with the needle, and pulling up the presser foot, you need more pressure on the presser foot to keep it down. A different batch of harder leather could have done this to you. Also, a larger needle can do it too. Don't leave any plier marks on the needle or anything in the thread path, else it will snag and damage the thread leading to what appears to be tension problems, and birds nests under the feed dogs and plate. As above posts mention, pull all the thread out and clean up around the bobbin and hook, then rethread carefully to make sure it is done right. Tom
  22. Edit is only available for a short time after posting. So if it has timed out, continue with a new post. If there is something you really need it edited, ask a moderator. Tom
  23. There are lots of threads here about stitching clams, and horses. Including clams with cam lock. Try a search and I'm sure you'll find all you want to know very quickly. Tom
  24. I would think the old singer would do what you want better than a seamstress/dress making machine will. I have a techsew 2700 and a 1975 singer industrial 20-33 dress making machine. For light weight flat stuff (2 or 3 layers of 1mm each of pigskin, etc. for wallet liners), the singer does okay. The 2700 cylinder arm does better for most stuff, especially for purses where you need to be able to reach inside. I use the 2700 more than the singer. When you get a machine, get leather point needles too. They help the backside look a lot better. Call Ron at Techsew and see if he has any used machines. Tom
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