Jump to content

Northmount

Moderator
  • Posts

    6,177
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Northmount

  1. Hey, pretty nice! Welcome to the forum and the addiction. Tom
  2. Yup, thinner thread in the same size needle makes it easier to pull the knot up, so would as you found require a decrease in top tension. Lots of playing and practice will go a long ways toward "making the machine" behave. Overcomes the operator error problem. Tom
  3. Needs more top tension, or larger needle, or more pressure on the presser foot to keep it from lifting on the upstroke. Veg tan is harder than chrome tanned. Tom
  4. You should state where you are located. Tom
  5. Be careful you don't spread the mold around. The spores can become airborne and affect other pieces of damp leather. Clean and treat the stuff outside if possible. There are other threads here about mold, cleaning and prevention. Listerine in your casing water is supposed to help prevent mold. Tom
  6. Also make sure you rough up the plastic so you can get a good bond. Most glues don't adhere well to smooth plastic. Tom
  7. 220 vac (North America) is single phase. Only larger loads like stores, shopping centres, factories, etc. use 3 phase. 208 vac 3 phase wye connected provides 120 vac single phase from line to neutral. Tom
  8. Occasionally new people get missed, nothing you said to bother anyone. Welcome to the forum. And welcome to the addiction! We would like to see pics of some of your stuff. Whether you want to post for critiques, or just to show off, either is great. Tom
  9. Here it is. Saddles-Silver Lace.pdf Tom
  10. I have a couple cameras with 4 replaceable AA batteries and a couple with built-in rechargeable batteries. Both have their advantages. If the rechargeable battery runs down when you need it, you are stuck until you can recharge it (unless you have purchased a spare that is kept charged). I have used rechargeable AA as well. They don't last as long as Duracell AA, so need to be replaced/charged more frequently. A new camera is always nice to play with and figure out its nuances. Tom
  11. Look lower right in the box you are posting in and pick more reply options. Tom
  12. Check with member Bruce Johnson. He may be interested in purchasing the tools, then you can apply that to purchase of a machine. Send him a PM. Posting your location may be helpful too. Tom
  13. Can also use site:leatherworker.net as part of the search parameters. Restricts the search to this site. Can do sub searches also the same way. Tom
  14. I assume that is the bottom side you are showing. Loops on the bottom mean not enough tension on the top. You need to adjust the tension so the knot is pulled into the middle of the leather. If it is coming through to the top side, yo have too much top tension. If it is on the bottom side, there is not enough top tension. There are many posts here about how to set the tension. Do a search and read them. Proper threading of the machine makes a huge difference. Make sure it is threaded correctly. That includes how the thread comes off the top of the spool. Any binding as the thread comes off the spool increases the top tension. So until you get the thread stand issue fixed, you won't be fully successful at setting the tension. You can re-arrange the thread stand you have to place the spool platform much lower near the table. Then take a coat hanger and fashion it to fit the pole and form an eye directly over the centre of the spool. Tom
  15. Cut your blank a little narrower so it doesn't rub on the buckle. Skive the buckle end, dampen, then form the belt around the buckle. Then do the painting and finishing. Paint doesn't stretch when the belt is bent sharply. Nice belts! Tom
  16. Don't hit it really hard. You will get a lot farther with soft taps. Hitting it hard will likely produce a bend that messes it all up. Learned this from my Dad when I was about 12 years old. That is a long time ago! Before we had all these fancy tools. Just a cutters and a ball peen hammer. Tom
  17. If it is in a plastic bag, sealed, and kept cool, it shouldn't dry out (where would the moisture go?). Make sure it is cool enough that it doesn't go moldy. Tom
  18. Do an experiment, hold the iPad in different positions to figure out which way makes the photos post right. Apple products and some other cameras store XIF data with the photos and some software reads that and will display the photo the direction you took it. Most webpages ignore the XIF data. And, great note pad cover! Tom
  19. Make sure the leather is cased properly, then apply a little more pressure. Some lines you may want to bevel with a figure carving stamp / beveller like the crafftool F895 (there are smaller and larger versions). Tom
  20. Looks like your adjustment is roughly centred. For the simple math part, draw a sketch to scale and reread the instruction. Tom
  21. Mounting the bobbin winder is the last thing to do. Ignore the bobbin winder when sizing and installing your drive belt. Your belt length should be 2 x the centre to centre distance of the pulleys, plus 1/2 the circumference of the 2 pulleys. Position your motor about halfway in the adjustment range so you have space to install and adjust. The pulley size is the outside diameter of the pulley. Tom
  22. I use Photoshop Elements 10. Has batch processing capabilities. I'm sure there are a lot of others that will do the same. I see that irfanview has watermark capabilities using an overlay. Have used it many times for batch conversions. Tom
  23. A rubber hammer is too soft. Much of the impact is absorbed by the rubber. Need a good solid mallet or maul to use larger punches. A deadblow hammer works even though most have some rubber on the face. Tom
  24. "Canadian Freightways are a bunch of idiots". I had no problems with them. And it was a residential delivery, set on the curb. It probably depends on the "nut" behind the wheel. Tom
  25. I have some that is well over 50 years old. Was stored for years in a shed that was subject to hot summer days and -40 winter days. Still good. Tom
×
×
  • Create New...