Northmount

All very well done. The desert scene really catches my attention! Tom

Looked nice from what I could see. Pictures wouldn't load for me. Dogs will do that. Kids have to learn to keep their wallet safe. One of my kids did the same thing around 1982. I wasn't too happy after the work I had put into it. Wallet was nicely tooled. I was able to cut the damaged corner off, make a skived join, and re-lace the damaged section. Hardly shows. He is still using it. If they don't learn to keep it safe, in their pocket, they'll loose it and what ever is in it one day. Tom

Two steps to uploading pictures, assuming you found the button "More reply options". First step is to choose the photos, then to attach the files to the post. Photos will be inserted wherever your cursor is in the text box. Tom

You can grind out the front toe so you can see the needle as it approaches the leather. Get a couple extra feet and modify to suit your sewing preferences. Tom

Jimdad, You have people interested in helping you. Let us know if you are still interested.

Hand or machine stitching? Tom

Company names and logos are trademarks and are normally registered by the owner. There are interesting cases like Apple and Apple Corp. Apple had to license the use of Apple Corp's logo that they use. Copyright is different than registered trademarks. But you can get in trouble for misappropriation of either. Tom

The first pic is the backside or more commonly called the flesh side. It's against the muscle/meat of the animal. The top side is the second pic. Commonly called the grain or hair or finished side. The show side normally, but depends on what appearance is wanted. The smooth grain or finished side needs to be roughened up to give the cement something to stick to. Coarse sandpaper works well. For glueing almost any material together, smooth surfaces need to be roughened up. Tom

The adjustment for the middle foot is the one you were pointing to in your photo. It is vertically above middle presser foot shaft. Maybe it has the wrong spring. Could cut part of it off. Seems to me there was another thread here somewhere about different lengths of springs. You could check with Gregg from Keystone. Tom

Take it back and get a refund Tom

There are separate adjustments for the inside and outside foot. Determine which one is marking the leather first. Tom

Needs to be the same size as the leather or larger. 3/4" plywood likely has enough weight by itself. You don't want to squash your tooling. Yes it takes longer to dry, you can change the towel or paper towel every couple hours to help hurry it up, and inspect how it is drying. Tom

Was the super shene frozen, or old? All water based finishes and paints are damaged when frozen. Tom

Rubbing alcohol has some other stuff in it. It may not be a problem. If you do a search for alcohol here, you will find many threads that give lots of info on the types available, including suitable types from the local liquor store if others are hard to find. Ethanol is good, Methyl Hydrate works for me. Denatured alcohol is ethanol with junk added to it to make it un-drinkable. Ethanol is what is in booze. You can always experiment on scrap pieces and see what works best for your case. You learn more by trying and seeing the first hand results. Tom

Nice job. Would be very tempted to have you make a pair for me, but we are too far away! Tom

Too thick a first coat, so it can't dry. Try a test piece. Cut the shene 50% with water before applying. Apply in light coats, allow at least 8 hours between. You may have to use a stronger solvent in order to remove the mess. Try alcohol or acetone. Test on a small area or other piece of scrap to see how it behaves. May remove some of your dye, or spread it around. Tom

I have placed the tooled leather on a flat clean surface, face down. Then covered it with a towel, or paper towel and placed a weight on top. The surface you place it on must be smooth, else it will transfer the irregularities to the leather. People have laid it on paper towel and then wondered where the funny pattern came from. You'll have to remove your backing material first as it needs to dry from the back. Tom

Try this manual http://www.keysew.com/Webpages/DemoImages/TN-422Bowners.pdf Tom

Would be helpful to know your location/country. Tom

Reduce your top tension first, before you play with the bobbin tension. Make sure the top thread path is not getting caught or hung up on anything. Tom

Here is one http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=39103&st=0&p=243024&hl=+servo%20+manual%20+error&fromsearch=1entry243024 It may help to tell what make and model your motor is. Lots of servos out there. Tom

Looks like autocorrect gotcha! Super glue Tom

It's a great machine. My only problems have been my own making, like many users. Takes me a bit to get the correct tension when I switch threads between 60 and 138. But that's not the machine's problem. That is to be expected. Drop down edge guide is a great addition. I added mine later. Order a bunch of leather point needles with the machine. Then you won't have to re-order later and wait for them. Tom

ahimsacowgirl see above post.She hasn't been online since April 2013, so hopefully this quote will get to her email. Tom

I have built the completer binder of leather with a stiffener between the outside and the lining leather. Then added the rings taken from a new binder. Trashed the vinyl cover completely. Then you can do all your sewing without the rings getting in the way. Here is another 3 ring binder thread. Tom PS, by the way I use a Techsew 2700. Had to add a speed reducer to it to go slow enough for me around the corners and stuff like that. I think a needle positioning system would work ok because you can go 1 stitch at a time when you need to. You can also hand-wheel to place the needle where you want it for stitch length adjustments for corners or such, then go from there.