Northmount

http://www.amazon.com/Duck-240225-Repair-Aluminum-1-88-Inch/dp/B0000DI82JThere are various types/manufactures. Search aluminum foil tape Tom

3 Fords, 3 failed transmissions requiring complete rebuilds. 1 tranny took 3 rebuilds before I could drive 100 miles without problems. All the reusable parts tolerances all added up in the same direction, so they had to replace all hard parts. Multiple GM versions of cars, no transmission problems. Tom

Cut a strip with and without contamination and test it. Then you will know how much you need to use to cover it. Have you tried deglazer? It might work, again you need to test it. Different dyes (manufacturers) may respond differently too, so one person's experience might not work for another with a different source. Tom

Try http://www.leightons.ca located south of Edmonton, new and reconditioned used machines. Tom

Yes, there are several posts. If you've found only one, continue your search and you will find them. "apartment" might be one of the words to search for. And welcome to the forum. Tom

The point I was making is that water is a solvent, so a solvent based finish doesn't tell much about the type of finish. For your edification here are a couple links you can look up. https://water.usgs.gov/edu/solvent.html http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_solvent You could do a Google search and find many more if you are so inclined. Our purpose here is to help members and visitors learn and develop their craft and abilities. Think about it, then review your comment. I think we all know that there is no universal solvent that will dissolve all types of materials. If there was, what container would you keep it in? From my limited experience, acetone doesn't contain water, but will still lift water based dyes. Tom

Water is the universal solvent. So describing a finish as solvent based does not say what the solvent is. A lacquer type finish uses acetone or similar petrochemical solvents. A water based finish uses water as the solvent. Most petrochemical solvents will soften or dissolve many water based dyes and finishes. Before applying a finish, water based or petrochemical based solvents, make sure the dye has properly dried and buff the surface until no more pigment lifts off. Then apply your finish. Avoid too much scrubbing action, or you may lift some dye back to the surface and spread it around. Water based finish on water based dyes don't usually lift too easily. But lacquer types will lift water based dyes quite easily. So air brushing light coats rather than a scrubbing action is less likely to get you into trouble. Air brushing or sheep skin applicators or brushes work. They all take some practice to work out the best method for your type of work. So do some experimentation, develop what works for you, then stick with it. Tom

One thing to consider with an axe sheath, how long is the axe handle? I don't like having to feed 3 feet of handle through the sheath to put the sheath on or take it off. So for this case, I prefer a welt at the sharp edge of the blade, and a flap that folds over the head. Instead of a flap, can use a strap angled to run across the handle, just behind the head. For a short handled axe (read hatchet), handle length is not as much of a factor. Tom

There is a type of aluminum foil used for sealing joints in furnace and other ducting. It comes with self-stick glue and tear off strip. Typically 2" wide rolls. So could easily be used to line pockets. Tom

Welcome to the forum and hopefully, the addiction. What type of work are you interested in doing? Lots of avenues to pursue. Tom

People might like to know your location so they will know a little more about what to expect with shipping, communication, etc. Tom

Just reminded from another post here, be consistent with the direction the thread pulls off the bobbin and passes through the tension spring. If it was originally installed to double back, and you flipped it over, it would now have less tension. Tom

If that is where you started from, did you hold onto the threads when you started? +1 on waiting until the needle is rising and the hook has caught the loop before going to reverse. Tom

Aspen here in the NW North America is pretty soft/weak. I'd trust Douglas Fir a lot farther than aspen. Tom

First off, take the bobbin and basket out and make sure there are no bits of thread, or needle tip etc. down there. If it was working well before with your bobbin tension setting, it should now too. Tom

I think this is the best one yet. I think, at least for me, the shallow embossing works better. You are really having too much fun now. Tom

Looks like Baltic Birch would be a good substitute for the plywood (laminated) parts. Likely Fir plywood would suffice, but wouldn't look as nice, also a little weaker. Tom

If your software gives you a choice, resize to 800 pixels wide or file size about 150 kB. This one is too small to see any detail. Tom

I hope you have been paid for the bag. If so, I would offer to make a new bag, preferably full cost, maybe add a discount coupon he could use for a future purchase. Don't take a loss. He can resell or dispose of the first bag himself. I like the idea above about making a matching bag as Twin Oaks suggests. If you haven't been paid for the bag, drop it and cut your losses now. Turn the bill over to a collection agency so you get at least 25 to 50% back. Tom

I would recommend you do a search here for more information for dog collars. I recall a number of posts dealing with problems including dye rub off, stretching, loosing definition, etc. Especially for dogs that go swimming! Tom

Too many "professional speakers" have a very inflated opinion of themselves. They should realize that others need a paying wage as well. Many of them are delivering the same canned speech at every appearance for a year before they come up with a new one. Seems a lot of people go for the entertainment with their funny stories. I could say more, but ... Tom

Let it dry another day and then go at it again and see if you are still getting never-ending rub off. Tom

Try Bruce Johnson Tom

Looks like maybe that one stitch was pulled up too tight, and if so will likely cut through the leather. I actually cut a short piece of paper clip and stuck under one stitch some time ago to repair it. Looks okay unless someone inspects it to closely. But won't pull through or loosen up. Tom

Have you used two colours of dye? Looks darker in the pic in a couple places. If this is not two-tone, then I would guess that you have too much NF oil in the dark areas and it is probably lifting the dye as it bleeds out. NF oil should be applied sparingly, and wait 8 hours or more to see that it levels/spreads out evenly. I see from other posts that some oil the leather lightly before applying dye, and others oil after the dye has dried to replace some of the natural oils that are lost during the dye process. Helps to make the leather more supple again. If you have too much oil, the leather also goes mushy. Bury it in cornstarch or kitty litter for a week to absorb the excess if this is what has happened. Tom