Northmount

Take a look at the saddle examples here. The first pic shows the stamping done after wet forming. The next 2 show stamping done before wet forming. The third pic shows both stamping done before wet forming, and the makers stamping on the flat with no wet forming so you can see the difference with just this one maker. If you want to maintain the crispness of the stamping, it has to be done after wet forming, while on a solid form. Tom

Crock pots are good. Have seen them posted here before for melting wax and blending NFO. Just don't tell your wife what happened to her crock pot! Tom

Sounds like it should be double boiler. Most recipes melting any kind of wax use a double boiler or equivalent to reduce risk of inflammable vapours and a possible fire. Tom

I assume you are talking about book binding. Is that right, or slip covers for already bound books? You might like to give your location on this planet. Might be someone closer to home that might be interested. Your IP address looks like Fort Worth, TX Tom

Reduce your photos to about 800 X 600 pixels, which is quite adequate for most web viewing here. Then you can post lots of photos! Tom Edit:. You can create a gallery, upload your photos to it, then paste the link in your posts.

I prefer the deadblow hammer. Also stick the punch into some beeswax before punching each hole. Cuts easier and is easier to pull out. Tom

If the leather is soft, it will snag easily and show wear on corners quite quickly. Snagged the sleeve on my nice lambskin jacket going out the door one day. Caught on the screen door handle and ripped it! I would hesitate to use it on case exteriors if it is very soft temper. Tom

Looks like it may be burned in, pyrography, like woodburning. Tom

You can use a clamp or a vise as a press to make nice clear impressions. You can also use a dead-blow hammer to eliminate the bounce that occurs when using a hammer/mallet. Tom PS I'll also move this thread to "How Do I Do That".

Reinforcement tape from Lisa Sorrell sounds great. Another option would be fiberglass window screen, or even aluminum wire screen if you really need additional strength. Either can be cut to whatever width and length you need. Tom

Have you tried replacing the needle since the jamb? May be bent or point damaged. Tom

Welcome to the forum. Whereabouts in Canada? Try this search on Google. "site:leatherworker.net bifold wallet pattern". Drop the quote marks. Tom

Nice work, especially the cat. Tom

Attempted to do some more work a few days ago with the Chinese Skiver / Paring machine. Attempted to skive the edge of some 8/9 oz. Chrome tanned. It just kept digging in deeper. Changed the angle of the knife, but didn't improve. I went back to one that I made modelled on the Scharf Skiver. Works much better. Tom

Fibreglass tape, like used for drywall repairs works too. May need more than one layer depending on the amount of strain. Tom

A piece of garden hose or similar used like a stethoscope works well too. Helps determine direction nose is coming from. Tom

Google has much larger servers and more refined indexing in their search database. Do a Google search specifying site:leatherworker.net followed by your search words. No spaces in site:xxxx. You can limit your search to any site you wish by using the site parameter. Tom

Are you still looking for someone to do this work, or is this a dead end? Tom

Might be a good idea to tell people where on earth you are located! Russia, China, Germany, South Africa? This is a world wide forum. And by the way, welcome to the forum. Tom

Usually more top tension required to pull the knot up. Make sure the thread is between the tension disks, that it hasn't jumped out and riding on top. Try a larger needle size if the top tension is already quite tight. Need a large enough hole to be able to pull the thread up. Tom

Moved to leather sewing machines, so you will likely get more response here. Help wanted is like newspaper classifieds advertising for employment purposes. Tom

Are you looking for a portable package that will be used for vibration data collection route, or stationary use for vibration analysis at a machine location? For a data collection route, are you looking at carrying the package on one arm, or on shoulders with tablet in front of your chest. I have several years experience with vibration data collection routes using various types of data collectors, some integrated with pen tablet PCs. Will need more information about how you want to integrate the system for easy and safe carry working around operating equipment. Often in tight locations in close proximity to other machines and moving parts. PM me and provide your email address so we can discuss the requirements. Tom If PM doesn't work for you, go to https://tomscrafts.com/contact and fill in the contact form. Photo of a recent project.

You could try burying it in cornstarch, or floor dry, or kitty litter and let the oil leach out into it for a week and see if there is any appreciable improvement. Guys that have over oiled leather have been successful in removing some of the oil. Stir it up a couple times each day. Tell us if it works for you. Tom

Likely not enough top tension, or top thread not seated between the tension disks. I don't have a cobra, but from many comments here, the thread is supposed to go around one of the pairs of tension disks one and a half times. You can search the forums here for more comments and problems to clarify the proper threading route. The mess on the bottom is often called a bird's nest, so you could include that in your search parameters. I see you are new here. Welcome to the forum. Lots of great experience and information here. Tom

I just cut up a side of cowhide I was given. The cowhide was sent to a tannery by the ranch owners. Then after it was tanned, it sat for many years and travelled across Canada and back. Then sat in my storage for another year or so. Seemed to absorb water somewhat, but not like vegtan. Could stamp it, but didn't leave good crisp impressions. Had been drum dyed, but centre was blue grey. Also could not wet form the leather. The blue grey colour in the middle clinched it for me. Chrome tanned. If struck through, the other behaviours here may help sort out the type of tannage. Finally used it to make a set of saddle bags and gave them to the fellow that donated the hide to me. He has MS, can still do some riding. When he can't ride anymore, he can through them over the back of his wheelchair, or I can remove the yolk and split them into two separate bags with whatever type of handles he wants. Tom