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Northmount

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Everything posted by Northmount

  1. Can also stitch the fold lines to make it a little stiffer. But won't make floppy leather stiff. Tom
  2. Ask UPS, or talk to a brokerage agent. If you learn the ins and outs, you can clear your own stuff from UPS instead of paying their exhobitant fees. FedEx does same as UPS. If you clear your own stuff, takes time and travel. Can tie you up 3 or 4 hours depending on the day. Lots of info on the web. Including instructions and forms. Tom
  3. Nail polish remover is now acetone. If you use much, it's cheaper to buy at paint and hardware stores. Also used to cleanup tools after using fibreglass resin. So is also available at automotive and boat shops/stores. EPA doesn't and California haven't classed acetone as a smog producing volatile organic compound, so it is being used in paints and finishes now. That doesn't mean it's not a harsh chemical. Don't breathe too much of it! Tom
  4. Moderators watch and delete double and triple posts when they see them. Welcome to the forum Tom
  5. That is right. If you want to have parts of this thread edited, you can PM me with the edits you want. Or compile them into a PDF that we can post (I have PDF software I can use). I'll make the offer for this thread, but not for all threads. Have other stuff I should be doing! PM me and let me know, I'll provide my email for larger files. Tom
  6. Maybe Wizcrafts can chime in here, or Trox or Constabulary. I don't know the old machines that well, only know that I can get a much better quality machine for that price, even some real nice antiques if that was what I was looking for. Tom
  7. Did you try Longview Leather? http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=54135&p=346649 Tandy in Calgary often has saddle skirting, haven't looked at its quality. There is a place in Edmonton I came across on google as well sometime ago. Tom
  8. Keep your knife perpendicular to the leather. Just a slight lean could put you off a mm. Tom
  9. Nice! The old bag is pretty good, and has developed character. Tom
  10. If you give your machine make and model number, someone will be able to help you. Tom
  11. Looks like a very high price for unknown condition, poor looking machines, and by the description, 3 phase power. Tom
  12. Bound buttonholes are used on higher end coats, jackets. The long sides of the buttonholes have extra material added to give a rolled edge. I have a really nice leather coat with this style. I remember my mom doing coat buttonholes many years ago. And of course, for the most part, they are done by hand. http://rhondabuss.blogspot.ca/2012/10/bound-button-holes.html http://www.sewalongs.com/anise/anise-tutorial-bound-buttonholes http://www.uniquepatterns.com/education/sewing-insider/71 http://sewaholic.net/bound-buttonholes-my-favourite-method/ Tom
  13. Probably part of the reaction between iron and the tannin in the leather - helped along by your humid climate. Like vinegaroon. Do black/dark blue/grey spots form on the surface of the leather inside the sheath against the steel blade? If so, I wonder if chrome tanned lining would prevent it. I think you have the opportunity here for a few experiments. Let us know what you learn. Tom
  14. Moved to "Suppliers" and pinned. Looks like a good resource list for the UK. Tom
  15. Apple IOS knows the orientation of the camera from the XIF data stored with the picture. MS and some other OSs don't pay any attention to the camera orientation data so photos could be any orientation. IOS users need to determine which way is up for their device so other operating systems can display it correctly. Alternatively, MS could get some smarts and use the XIF data to help their displays. But that is probably too much to expect out of MS. And yes, that's a fine animal! Tom
  16. The raw edges of the leather need to be burnished in my opinion. Take a look at this thread. Again, good start for just getting back to leather. Tom
  17. Doin alright for just getting back into it. For the lacing, I would either use wider lace, or reduce the distance form the holes to the edge. Tom
  18. Moisten (water) the leather before you do tight folds. That should avoid the cracking. Looks pretty good to me. Tom
  19. Look for used books on the web. I have one that I bought in the 60s that is great for someone starting out, and would be a help to others with a medium level of experience. General Leathercraft by Raymond Cherry (1955). I have seen copies available on Amazon and at ABEBooks.com. Just had a look and there are a number of 1945-46 printings. Also look at FO Baird's books, especially for patterns. Watch Tandy's sales for Leather Secrets Tandy has promoted Al Stohlman's books so we see more of them. I have several and refer to them frequently. Tom
  20. There are lots of leather machines around. You need to know the manufacture and the model number for anyone to be able to answer your question. Tell him you need the name and model and to provide photos of the front and back of the machine. Old Singers (domestic) are frequently listed on eBay and such as industrial strength capable of sewing 1/4" of leather. They are not. Industrial machines have the motor under the table, not on the back of the machine or inside the housing. Those that are "leather machines" have been modified to handle leather without damaging the surface of the leather. They are walking foot machines, so have two feet that operate in sequence with the needle to move the leather as it is being stitched. Tom Edit: See the banner ads at the top of the screen for various sewing machine dealers that support this site and provide excellent service to the community. Each time you refresh the page, you will see a new set of ads. Look at their machines and descriptions to see what a "leather machine" looks like.
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