Northmount

Add a few pictures so people can see what it looks like and form some opinion of its condition. Tom

See this thread for the "The Leather Worker's Manual" by Standage. Tom

The respirator you use should have a cartridge for organic chemicals. Simple filter will take out droplets, but not the fumes themselves. If you can smell the solvent through the filter, it is not working or the charcoal (or other absorbent) is used up. Replace it. Tom

Try reducing both tensions together if the thread is being pulled into/below the surface of the leather. Tom

Help wanted is for hiring help, like classifieds in the newspaper. Moved your post to Leather Sewing Machines. Tom

Not much to skive on 1/64". You likely need 2-3 oz. Tom

Is your presser foot lifting with the leather when running with the motor? That will result in skipped stitches. Try tightening the presser foot spring down some. Tom

See this chart http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html Tom

If you are sewing 8 oz (1/8") and over, up to 3/8", get the speed reduction pulleys as part of the package. Tom

Generally rubber cement (Elmers and others generally found in stationery stores) here is only used for temporary gluing. For permanent gluing, suggest using contact cement. Either hydrocarbon solvent based (often in a red can) or latex water based (often in a green can). A lot depends on your tolerance for strong smelling solvents. There are lots of threads here about contact cement and proper usage. Tom

If the needle is too small, the top tension can't pull the knot up in thick hard leather. Try a larger needle versus your thread size. Also try lubricated thread. Tom

I have a Techsew 2700. Got it about 3 years ago. No problems other than learning to set the tension with changes in leather. That goes for all machines. Tom

A search of these forums using the search function in the upper right of your screen, looking for tangleboss brings up 16 threads. The sixth one down may answer your question. Tom

I should have said 3/32". So just under 1/8". 3/16" is usually too long! Tom

A sharp close up pic of the rivets may help us determine what the problem is. If the rivet is cut too short, there won't be enough material to hold the burr down. If you smash the rivet down hard with a couple blows, it won't look great either. Usually bends the post and doesn't leave enough above the burr to deform over the burr. I use a ball peen hammer to gently deform the post working sort of circular around the post. Gentle taps. I cut the post so it protrudes about 3/16" through the burr. I use a diagonal cutters, or end cutter to nip off the excess. I have used Tandy's rivet setter too (it works okay), but generally go back to the way my dad showed me over 50 years ago. Tom

Help wanted is like the classified ads in the newspaper. So I moved your post to leather sewing machines. Hopefully this will get you the responses you are soliciting. Posts made in help wanted require moderator's approval before they can be seen by the rest of the users. This post will likely inherit the same behaviour. Tom

Old timers have used a lot of different things for bearings. Oak blocks lubricated with tallow. Wood blocks lined with bacon rind. Tom

You can read the amps (current) and the volts from the motor nameplate. As above, you can determine Watts from that. and 746 Watts = 1 hp. For an older motor, use a power factor of 0,6. Newer, use 0.75. The motor nameplate will also tell you if it is 3 phase. If no mention of 3 phase, it is single phase. So all you need to do to compare motors and their wattage or hp, it's a simple substitution of the values into the formulas. That is something like grade 6 or 7 math. You asked a specfic question and I answered with the specifics. I ihave no way of knowing your level of understanding of math or electricity. Tom Hope this helps with the comparisons you are trying to do and understand.

You need to match the needle size to the thread you are using. 23 is lots to big, makes a big hole, so hard for you to get the tension set right. Smaller hole will require more top tension. See this chart You will also find that the needle goes through the leather easier and won't stall out so easily. On some machines, it is common to help get moving by turning the hand wheel. Depends where you are on the stroke to some extent too. Tom

Moved your post to "how do I do that". Help wanted is like help wanted in the newspaper classifieds. Posts started in help wanted require moderator's approval before they can be seen by others. That property may carry over into the new area so replies will likely have to be approved as well. Tom

I moved your post to "how do I do that". Help wanted is more related to hiring someone. It also requires moderator approval for each post. Chances are that this thread will still require approval for each post because of the area it was initially posted in. Tom

Put the knife right on the line, bring the ruler over to it, and parallel to how you see the line. Make sure you have enough light on that edge of the ruler to see clearly, not working in a shadow. If you have on good eye, and one not so good, arrange your work and lighting to take advantage of the good eye. Tom

You can also bury the ends of the thread between the layers of the strap. Tom

You can bury the items in cornstarch or kitty litter or floor-dry and allow it to absorb the excess oil. Might take several days, may have to shake it up to put new absorbent against the leather. Searches here for over oiling, neatsfoot oil, etc. will lead you to similar information. Tom

White PVA is flexible. Yellow PVA used by woodworkers is not. Yellow glue used on leather, you will hear it crack every time you bend the article, until all the possible bend lines have been bent. Then it will be quiet! Tom