Northmount

No reason one way or the other. If you are used to running an electric machine slow enough to go around corners, I'd go electric. They both do the same thing. Tom

Yes, do a few test pieces first to see if your tension needs adjustment, then adjust as needed to place the knot in the middle. Tom

When doubling up the leather to make it thicker or for lining on curved objects, don't lay out flat and glue. Use contact cement, start at one edge and "roll" (form the curve) as you are gluing it together. And yes, the inside circumference is less than the outside circumference, so you have to make adjustments to the length. If it is the inside diameter that is critical, then add more length to the outside layer and vice-versa. Check your dimensions by fitting pieces together dry (no glue) with the final curve or shape in mind. The glued together layers will hold the shape and can tolerate some change in the bend radius without forming wrinkles. Tom

Read post #127, and other subsequent posts. Always a good idea to read the last few posts in a long thread like this. Tom

Take a look at how Nigel does the He has more videos as well.Tom

The only reason I suggested leaving the spots off, was so you would have a nice flat surface to lay your ruler on as a cutting guide. If you are making several of this design you could make a cutting guide to fit with them. I would fully assemble the straps, glued, sewen, etc. before I trimmed the edges, then bevel the edge and do your edge treatment. Tom

Hard spots in the leather, or the dye beginning to soak through from the back. Try leaving a sample in the dye longer to see if it all turns darker more evenly, or pull it out sooner before it has soaked through. These are guesses so you'll have to try another experiment! Tom

Do the trimming before you put the rivets in. Then hold a metal ruler down tight or clamp it and cut both the leather and the lining at the same time. Make your pieces a little larger so you have some space to trim off. Tom

As dirtclod says, leave wide flange and trim off the excess after you have sewen it. Tom

Your friend will really appreciate the foul weather! Really nice job. Tom

Unless asked to, does happen. But the critique section is a better choice ... and I see you are there. Like your watch bands and this test. Tom

One a 1 ton, can do something the size of a Rolodex card with no trouble. So for a 2 ton, you might be stretching a bit. Comparing the length of the cutting edge, 10" is okay for the 1 ton, you would be cutting about 20" with your 6" circle. Probably doable. You need a good solid plate above and below, a suitable cutting board, and enough throat depth. I need to get a couple small dies made for my 1 ton, and a couple lager ones plus plates for my 20 ton shop press. Always more stuff to do! Tom

For me, Firefox works as Wiz says on a PC. On an iPad, if I want to copy some text, I hold my finger on the text (touch and hold) until the IOS selects some text, then adjust the limits of the text selected, touch select, copy, switch to the location I want to copy to, touch and hold the spot until the paste instruction appears, then touch paste. To copy a URL, touch and hold on the URL, when prompted, select all, copy, then go paste. I can't speak to Android yet, but that may not be far off. The last IOS upgrade is trash, and I can't go back. Speed for almost anything, and especially for switching tasks, has hit rock bottom. The screen appearance is awfull, not what I would call an upgrade. The safari browser crashes frequently. Especially if you touch an embedded youtube while scrolling, but many other random times too. Their music player crashes on certain songs as it plays an album, yet will play the same song when picked by name. These problems and Apple's idea of how it organizes photos, mp3 files, etc., not allowing me to organize folders ... has irked me since I got the xxx thing. So after fighting it for 3 years and the added problems, I'm looking for change. Just about bought a BB Playbook, but with BB's problems and no stock, that's out. Tom

Here it is http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=48303&st=15#entry342498 Tom

Depends on the size of the die. Tom

I moved this to leather sewing machines for you as suggested by others. Hope you are okay with the move. Tom

Follow this link. Do a search and you'll find more. Tom

Tight bottom tension pulls the knot to the bottom, and the bottom thread lays on the surface, and you may even be able to pull it right out with little trouble. You need to learn to properly set your sewing machines tension. It should be set so the knot is in the centre of the leather. There are many posts and threads about how to set thread tension here. Do a search and study out how to set it. Tom

Brush type servo motors are analog control. So the adjustment for speed is a potentiometer (adjustable resistance). You turn the knob to set the upper speed range. The others are digital servo control, brushless. They have a little display, use push button switches to make adjustments. I have both. Once you have the max speed set, you aren't likely need to adjust again for sometime. The potentiometer is easier to quickly adjust. The sewpro from Toledo has 3:1 gear reduction built in so has better low end torque. Depending on specific manufacturers, some digital servos have very good low end torque due the the capability of providing precisely controlled pulses and yet be able to maintain precise speed control. They are high end and cost substantially more. Tom

Make custom ones out of Kydex. Works quite nicely. Can be made to fit anything. Rough up the back side of the Kydex and use a good quality contact cement to mount it in the case. Barges works great. Tom

Pictures? What machine, what thickness of leather, what thread and needle? Need more information for people here to be able to diagnose and help resolve the question. Tom

Try these ones http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread.html bonded nylon thread, colours, lubed ... Tom

Rivets or screws will work as long as you keep the standoff or make a new stand off. I had to make new standoffs for one I did. Used a combination of a 1/4" nut and a piece of 1/4" copper tubing. The nut against the leather to provide a larger surface area against the leather, flared the copper tubing and put the flare against the nut. The small end of the tubing fit into the space between the bars up tight against the main part of the mechanism. I used the socket half of a Chicago screw, an 8-32 nickel plated brass oval head screw with the trim washer you often see used with leather or canvass. Used a drop of glue when tightening up the screw so it would come loose later and fall apart. Maybe next time, I'll make a better standoff on the lathe, all one piece with a wide area to place against the leather, and narrow end to fit inside. Tom

Try Toledo, see banner ads at top of the page. Tom

220 in North America residential service is single phase. May be 2 wire or 3 wire, but is still single phase. There is no 220 2 phase. 220 VAC 3 phase is a different animal. Used in commercial and light industrial applications. Usually nominal 208 VAC 3 phase. You need a single phase to 3 phase converter to use that motor. Would be easier to switch motors and use a servo motor. Tom