Northmount

Wire colours vary in different countries. In North America, white is neutral, green (or bare copper) is safety ground, and for single phase systems, black is hot, so is red in 110-0-110 (220 volt). 3 phase typical, red, black, and blue are hot. I've seen cord sets here that are blue and brown for power leads, green with yellow stripe for safety ground. Not sure which one is hot. Have to check each time to determine which is which! So it is best for all equipment that you check with someone knowledgeable in your area. Be safe, not sorry. And yes, there are many mistakes made in wiring systems by people that don't know the standards. So check that a circuit is really dead before you touch bare wires. I've seen an electrician get his arm badly burned by a flash over with 3 phase 600 VAC. He didn't check that the load centre power was still off from the previous day. Tripped a 2000 A supply. Tom

This electronics stuff is all smoke and mirrors. When you let the smoke out, it doesn't work anymore! Tom

When the top thread gets too tight because it is caught on something as hook carries it around the bobbin case, then the thread gets damaged or breaks. Start by checking that the tab on the bobbin case is in the correct location under the feed dog plate. Also take a look at this post and this one Then slowly turn the machine by hand and observe the thread as it is picked up and brought over/around the bobbin. See where it is catching. Then you can determine what to fix or adjust. Tom

Here is the link to the pattern. Tom

Looks like your thread is getting caught on the edge of your bobbin basket. On mine, the hook drags it across real smoothly. You need to see why it is getting caught there. Some rough edge, or too much clearance, or ... Hope you get it sorted out. Else PM wizcrafts or gottaknow. They are the experts. I thought they would have seen this thread already, but it must have slipped under the radar. Tom

For thin materials and long stitch length, both top and bottom tensions need to be reduced. Shorter stitches help, but might not be the whole fix. In the middle of the run, you are probably keeping quite a bit of tension on the materials as you guide it through. So that extra tension, stretching the materials stops the gathering, except for the ends where it is difficult to do that. Tom

Great job overall. I like the kickstand. Have thought about a couple ways of trying it, but haven't got to it! Tom

There is an old thread here on making your own. Fellow was using bandsaw blades. He never came back with any posts with experience or pics. Tom

See post #1

PDF sheet 13 http://www.consew.com/Files/112347/InstructionManuals/227R-2.pdf top of the page. I set mine to allow the largest thread I use to pass through the gap. Tom

Make sure the tab for the bobbin case is in the notch in the feed plate, then if necessary, adjust the latch opening distance to pass your thread size. Had a similar problem once when I had taken the feed plate off to do some cleaning. Missed getting it into place. Twangs when the thread gets caught, shreds the thread. This photo is from a clone, but should be like yours. Tom

Make your own table attachment. This one just drops in place, the legs fold up for storage. Your design would depend on the type of table you get with your machine. Tom

I suggested this on another of Monica's threads, so this is for others that have been reading this thread. (By the way, Monica, did it work or help at all? I and others I'm sure would like to know how effective it is and the type of dye you were using.) Some dye spills can be cleaned up with Oxalic Acid (also called wood bleach). I think a lot of it depends on how porous the surface is, and how deep it penetrates. I'm sure it will depend on the type of dye as well. I know with stains in wood, it sometimes takes several soakings and applications to clean up the surface so it is gone or light enough not to be very noticeable. So far my dye spills have been on the bench, usually on some cardboard or paper towel. But paint is a different story. once dumped most of a gallon can in the kitchen. Half of it ran down the basement stairs! That was many years ago. Was oil based paint, and I had no thinner. Picked up a lot with a dustpan, then wiped up more, then lots of scrubbing with soap and water, over and over. At least it wasn't fast drying. My parent's never did know what happened to the paint! Tom

Leather point needles may cut your thread on a machine back-stitch. So if you are using leather points, the best would be to do them by hand like zuludog says. Tom

That's why there's now a servo on one machine instead of a clutch motor, and a servo plus speed reducer on the other. Had tried just a smaller pulley on the clutch motor, but wasn't adequate at all. Sure makes life easier now, especially going around corners!When I got into high school, math was no longer a problem. Suddenly became easy to make 100% on the exams. Teacher started using my papers for the answer key. Makes a real difference when you have good teachers that know what they are teaching. Tom

Take a look at http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=55325&page=1 Tom

Loose weaves won't be a problem. Tight weaves you will see a big hole around the thread. If the material is worked a bit, the holes may close in somewhat. You may have some "fun" getting your tension balanced using a large needle and small diameter thread. Then have to reset it to go back to leather. Tom

Hey guys, When calculating ratios, pulley diameter or circumference will work out to the same answer, if you carry enough decimal places. The 2 pi cancels out in your calculation, leaving just the diameter. (2 pi divided by 2 pi = 1) You would also get the same answer using radius. No advanced math required. Now if you are calculating belt speeds or linear velocity at the rim of the pulley, then you need to use circumference and the pulley speed. Tom

WOW!!! Tom

For the most part, water based stuff should not be allowed to freeze. Check what solvent or thinner is used, if it is water, then it's water based. Latex type paints, glues ... unless the manufacturer says otherwise. Some don't tell you, so take the fall back position. Don't freeze. Tom

Substitute warm rather than hot water in the post above. Too hot will make the leather hard, and hotter yet will cause it to shrivel up to an ugly mess. Tom

Hi Hannah, welcome to the forum. I have purchased from Techsew and had the machine delivered to the curb in front of my house, pulled the boxes and stand off the pallet, took them inside, assembled it and had the machine running within 2 hours. PM me if you want more info or want to see the 2700 cylinder arm machine. You could try it out with some 69 thread. Tom

Here are threads I found. I see they were using granite floor tiles. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19730&page=2#entry164360 post 21 http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=29661&hl=%2Bfloor+%2Btile#entry187327 post 9 This one used vinyl tile. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=41000&hl=%2Bfloor+%2Btile#entry255306 post 12 Tom

It's only one cm thick. Chances are it would break before long. I think you need at least 1", 2.5 cm thick. Talk to some of your friends, may be able to get one of them to help you get a slab. There are also 3", 7.5 cm thick granite surface plate that machinists use for checking flatness. Just looked up one here, 12x18x3", 35.6 kg, $45 CAN. You might be able to get one of those delivered for a good price if you find a source close to you. Tandy here has 12x12x1" slab. Check your local price and shipping. Tom Edit. Another option is to get 3 or 4 of the thin slabs and glue the together. Make sure they are glued true with each other, or a few hits and the top one will break. Ceramic floor tiles are another option to glue together. There is another thread here somewhere about that.

There is another thread here somewhere that says leaving the belt loose lets you slow the machine by using your hand as a brake against the hand wheel. Good for going slower around corners, but I would need three hands to do that! If you loosen the belt tension, you should be able to get back to the way it was operating. I suspect the slippage allowed slower starts too. Tom