Northmount

post the link and maybe someone here will be able to help further with defining it or a better translation. Tom

Once you get the right thread, needle and foot pressure combination, the backside will look a lot better. You can also tap the back side with a flat faced hammer to help smooth it out. Sometimes a little moisture before tapping the back helps. The backside never looks as good as the top side. Tom Also look at http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html thread/needle chart suggestions.

Very interesting. Are you interested in sharing a few patterns for dummies like me? Tom

See post #29 in this thread!

Where's the like button? Eating pi is the best! Tom

Just tested it again. IT WORKS.Are you following the instructions in post 2, or just clicking on the link? In either case, there is no need to keep posting that it doesn't work when it does for most. If it is not working on your computer, tablet or smart phone, you need to get your browser fixed, or see if your provider or your software is blocking that domain/ IP address. Tom

Works for me! Tom

You are half way there. C = Pi * D or C = Pi * 2 * r I think where estimates for strand widths for braiding are concerned, the 4.5 rule of thumb is likely a better estimate since the strands are not running parallel to the axis, but rather cross the axis on a diagonal. Tom

Definition of an expert: X is an unknown quantity, and spurt is a drip under pressure. Another definition is anyone more than 25 miles from home. Tom

Post 3 says hand stitched. But for machine stitching on a domestic type machine, bottom feed dogs only, you are right. So is something for. Those using domestic or industrial tailoring machines, this is something to beware of. Tom

Very nice job Ken. Tom

That is a really great job. Very smooth, precise. Selling price $600 or more? Direct competition against the high end fashion purses. Tom

RavenAus is right. There are several posts about this type of card slot. Try a search for "wallet card slot" (no quotes) and I think you will be able to find them. Tom

There are lots of cases of people starving to death that have boiled and eaten their shoes to try to get some nourishment. Miners trapped underground have chewed on their shoes too in an effort to survive. Mice like to eat harness and other tack that is left where they have access. So I don't think it is too serious of a problem. Acrylic finishes become inert for the most part. Alcohol has all evaporated from the dyes. The solvents used are the dangerous part of the MSDS, so they are gone after a day or two. Having said all this, leather can't be good for the dog's (or people's) diet, at least not my diet! Tom

Leather needs to be cased before stamping. Otherwise you will need a press to be able to stamp it and have the impression stay. I also find that if the leather is very slightly damp, I don't get as much bleed when dying with a brush. Sharper lines. Tom

Nice to see another Canuk here. Welcome. Tom

Use double sided tape so you don't have to iron on heat activated material. It is available in the "notions" department. There is also leather tape available from wawak.com Heat dries out the leather, makes it hard, shrinks into an ugly mess if it gets too hot. And as you found, also discolours it. No fix for damaged leather. You can double up leather where you need reinforcing. Glue it together with weldwood or other good contact cement. Follow the directions, let dry before sticking it together. Good luck, and have a great Christmas. Tom

Wow, you are coming right along. Keep it up. Tom

Bury the leather in cornstarch or kitty litter for a few days to absorb the excess oil. Tom

I notice rivets in the straps, but not on the handle. The straps only support half the weight of the handle (since the back supports the other half of the weight). I think I would add rivets to the handle too. I like the bag. Pretty nice job. Tom

Updated with additional info from Joe.

It could be due to a little burnishing while working with the leather while shaping it. Tom

You have put a lot of work into this tutorial It should help many people that are wanting to do the same. Thanks Joe from everyone here at leatherworker.net. I'm going to "pin" it. Tom

Aluminum is soft, easy to cut and file. Clogs up your grindstone if you are using a grinder. Tends to clog files too, but is easy to clean up. Aluminum deforms easily. If you accidentally hit the stamp you worked on against the granite or something hard, it will damage the profile. SS is fairly nice to work with (depends on the various grades) and is harder than aluminum. If you do a little searching here, you will find others making some of their own stamps. Some start with SS bolts from the hardware store. CS (carbon steel) works too, but will rust if it gets wet. If not cleaned and polished well, can leave CS particles in the leather, and you know what happens with iron and tannin. You get blue/black spots due to the chemical reaction. Tom

I wonder if a new tension spring would make any difference? Tom