Northmount

So there is too much tension on the bobbin. Reduce the bobbin tension a quarter turn at a time. You stated you have lots of tension on the top, trying to pull the knot up into the leather. The leather, hole size (needle size), thread size top and bottom, and the bottom tension have to work together to place the knot in the middle. If you have the right needle and thread sizes, the only thing left is the bottom tension. If I use too large a thread in my bobbin, it won't pull out easy enough. The slot in the bobbin is too small. The bottom tension should be about half the top tension. Tom

Read the previous post! Tom

Too much bottom tension? Tom

Read post #127, and other subsequent posts. Always a good idea to read the last few posts in a thread like this. Tom

Take a real good look at the leather before you start doing anything with it. Kind of looks like fly bites. Hard to tell from the small photo. Someone else quite some time ago placed paper towels or something like it one the leather and then a weight to flatten the leather out. It left some strange markings. Take a look at how you have stored the leather while it is wet (cased). It is very sensitive to being marked accidentally. Sometimes even wristwatch, cuffs with snaps or buttons while you are tooling. This doesn't look like that to me, but check how you are handling it. Tom Edit: I guess another thing could be hard spots in the leather. They won't react the same as the rest so may not absorb the oil and leave "dimples".

Other threads have suggested you should do the tooling after the wet forming so you don't lose the depth and detail. I would do the dye after the tooling so it doesn't open up spots with no dye below the surface. If you can support the area you are tooling adequately, should have little problem tooling after forming. You can search for wet forming and tooling or carving. You will find more opinions and instructions. Tom

Try bleaching the leather with oxalic acid. Could try a deglazer if oxalic acid doesn't work. Search threads here for more info on using oxalic acid to bleach the leather. Tom

Welcome. Good to have you here. What area of the country are you located in? Tom

Use a wet tooth brush to clean out the welt. Use a wet sponge or rag to remove the salt. May need to go over them more than once to dissolve and remove the salt. Then use Aussie Leather Conditioner or Dubbin to work some oils back into the leather and to protect it. Warmth helps get the oil into the leather. Tom

Really great job! Tom

Did a search for woodgrain and found this http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=3087&hl=woodgrain#entry48095 The search tool on the upper right of the page can be your new best friend. Try it out. Tom

Welcome from another Calgarian. Tom

Have a look through this thread stitchless case Tom

Look on YouTube Follow the link, shows all his videos. Tom

Wet forming is the answer you are looking for TXAG. Tom

What machine to use is a very frequent question here. At the upper right of the page is a search box (and advanced search gear icon next to it), If you spend a little time searching the topic, you will find a wealth of information. You at least need a walking foot machine, preferably with a servo motor so you can control the speed. Then look at the total thickness you are intending to sew. Over 3/8" gets you into heavy stitchers. There are banner ads at the top of the page for various machine sellers that set their machines up to sew leather. Look at what they have to offer, and ask if they have used machines available. Buying a garment making industrial machine will not do what you want. Neither will home domestics. Save up for a machine that is really capable of the work you intend to do. It will save you money and frustration in the long run. Tom

A clutch motor will sew way too fast for what you want if you have never used one before. You have to be able to feather the clutch to make it go slow enough for most leather work you will do. When looking for a machine, get one with a servo motor (so you can sew slowly), set up for leather the thickness you need to sew and with the thread size you are going to use. There are tons of threads here about what to get for a leather sewing machine. Do some searches and lots of reading. Upholstery or garment sewing machines are not suitable for most leather work (except for thin stuff). There are ads by machine suppliers shown at the top of the page here. Look at what they have and are supplying. Some have used machines available if you ask. The control box may include a needle positioning system. Stops with needle up or down when you stop the machine. Looks like a bunch of other stuff in the control box too. Tom

Buckskin Leather Longview Leather Or phone the nearest Tandy. (in Montreal) They will take phone orders and ship. Tom

If you are on a tablet or phone, just copy and past. On a PC, use "more reply options" button. Tom

Start with white leather. No white dye, just paint, and it needs to go on in thin layers ... diluted. Tom

Great figure carving! Tom

Nice job. How long have you been doing this type of work? Your work looks very proficient. Tom

Hard ground, I think you should double bevel as previous posters. If it is in soft ground, some of the ground would be above the hoof, hiding part of the hoof, so would bevel the hoof to push it back. That's my thoughts, others may have a different interpretation. Tom

Pretty nice! How about a tutorial of how to make them? You are tempting me! Tom

I think your practice pieces are pretty great. Finger carving is very nice. I need to do some practice finger carving! Maybe takes more of an artist's eye than what I have. Tom