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Northmount

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  1. Northmount
    Interesting. Welcome to the forum, hope to see you around frequently. Tom
  2. Northmount
    That's really great news. Good luck Tom
  3. Northmount
    Great to see you are back at it again. We'll be watching your work closely. I'm really looking forward to seeing your progress. Tom
  4. Northmount
    Moved to "Marketplace > Items For Sale > Machinery -- Sewing and Stitching > Used" Tom
  5. Northmount
    Pages 13 and 14 of Al Stohlman's Pictorial Carving has some examples. Bark is done with a modeling tool. You can purchase a download this booklet from Tandy. Page 46 of Al Stohlman's How to Carve Leather has a similar illustration. Also available from Tandy. Both of these booklets are good reference material and have lots of western figure carving patterns. Tom
  6. Northmount
    Bruce Grants Encyclopedia of Rawhide and Leather Braiding, page 273. Tom
  7. Northmount
    A photo might help us understand what you are seeing. Tom
  8. Northmount
    Wooden mallet also sheds fibres that drop onto your work and may get stamped into the leather if you don't notice in time. So I stay away from wood. You can cut a thin layer off the face of wood or rawhide to square up the face after it has become all beat up. Tom
  9. Northmount
    Welcome from another Calgarian. What are your main interests? Carving and tooling, bags, saddles, ... Looking forward to hearing more from you soon. Tom
  10. Northmount
    Steel rule dies are not suitable for use as mallet dies. But you can use an arbor press with a couple pieces of 3/8" or thicker steel plate to spread the force. The larger the die, the stronger press you need to use. (and maybe more bites to be able to cut longer or wider pieces) Standard index card size die is easy to use with a 1 ton arbor press as an example of force required for size. Tom
  11. Northmount
    Doug - Took me a while to find it! Sorry, that thread was locked. Here is a pic. Tom
  12. Northmount
    If you do a search for "mallet die" (including the quotes) you'll find a few threads with a little information including a supplier. Tom
  13. Northmount
    Same sort of thing happened to me. Have to keep the object you are sewing flat, perpendicular to the needle. If you lift the left edge, stitching on the back moves closer to the edge. I built a flat table adapter, problem gone. Tom
  14. Northmount
    You can add a flat bed adapter to a cylinder arm machine to use it as a flat bed. But you can't convert a flatbed to a cylinder arm. Nice to be able to reach inside to do purses, bags, etc. Domestics are just that. For leather, get an industrial machine that has been setup for leather. Tom
  15. Northmount
    Motors lose torque at low speeds. So if you are trying to punch through thick or hard temper leather a stitch at a time going around a tight curve, the motor is going too slow to produce the torque needed. The addition of a speed reduce set of pulleys gets the motor speed back up, and increases the torque available to your machine. If a speed reduce is 4:1 speed reduction, it will give you a 4x torque amplification besides the increased available motor torque due to its higher speed. Tom
  16. Northmount
    In addition to the comments above, servo motors normally have a brake. When the pedal is completely released, the servo motor's brake is on, so yes it is even harder to turn against the brake. Press the pedal slightly to release the brake. There is another thread of posts about disconnecting or removing the brake if it is not needed. Typically for most of us, we go slow so don't really need the brake. Tom
  17. Northmount
    Great stuff! Tom
  18. Northmount
    Have you tried changing the needle? Tom
  19. Northmount
    I try to always stitch the ends down instead of using the end stops. But it depends on your project. I have also found that when making a zippered folder, measure and start attaching the zipper in the middle on both covers, and working both directions to avoid having a twisted folder when finished. Use double sided tape or lots of clips to keep it all in place while doing the final assembly and stitching. Tom
  20. Northmount
    I tested three different types of contact cement. Tanners came out the best, and even developed greater strength as it cured over several more days. I have 2 BB playbook cases with Kydex clips I fabricated that have been in use for about a year now. No indication of anything coming apart yet. Don't forget to rough up the plastic and the grain side of the leather it is being attached to. Tom
  21. Northmount
    I've made clips out of Kydex and glued them in place. So that is another option. Tom
  22. Northmount
    Rough up the back of the hard shell plastic case, glue it to the leather using a high quality contact cement like Tanners Bond. Tom
  23. Northmount
    The way the thread is finished off around the outside edge of the strap, I would say the example you posted is hand sewen. Tom
  24. Northmount
    Beautiful! Nothing more I can say. Tom
  25. Northmount
    If think it is too smooth and shiny, just add more rouge to roughen up the surface slightly. That nice smooth shinny look still does the job, but maybe a little slower. Does more polishing, less cutting. Tom
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