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Northmount

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Everything posted by Northmount

  1. Iron and the tannin in the leather makes black. Take away one or the other and it won't turn black. So for veg tanned leather, you have to keep all sources of iron contamination away from it while wet/damp. (Normal stamping with steel tools normally won't produce black spots.) Vinegar is dilute acetic acid. It will not produce black in leather anymore than oxalic acid will. But once you dissolve iron in the vinegar, that is a whole different story. Now it contains iron and will react with the tannin in the leather. When you add enough iron to the vinegar, all the acid is used up and the vinegar smell is mostly gone. Many people use "vinegaroon" to their advantage to get a nice solid black that doesn't bleed and may color the leather from one side to the other depending on how you apply it. Tom
  2. If you are using the 1/2# or 1# spools, the thread comes vertically off the top of the spool. You will have a spool stand that holds usually 2 spools. The spools don't rotate. Take a look at the web photos of your machine or a number of videos that are out there. Tom
  3. To obtain these patterns, use this link Looks like the only way to stop the requests to email the patterns is to lock this thread. Tom
  4. Al Stohlman's books on making leather cases, available at Tandy and others. Tom
  5. Here are a couple more views I found. The second view shows the back side. http://gadgetsin.com/uploads/2012/03/handmade_leather_iphone_wallet_1_0001.jpg http://gadgetsin.com/uploads/2012/03/handmade_leather_iphone_wallet_4_0001.jpg Tom
  6. Leather Machine Company, Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines and Techsew as advertisers here (see top banner ads). Plus, Gregg at Keystone Sewing and Dan at Campbell-Randall are contributing dealer-members. Techsew is in Montreal. Most dealers also have used machines, depending on recent trades or acquisitions. Edit: Give them a call so you can discuss. Tom
  7. It would probably help if you gave some information about your machine. Make, model. Check the banner ads at the top of the page. One is in Montreal. Not real close, but avoids shipping your machine to USA if you need to ship to a dealer. Tom
  8. You need to clean, remove the waxes and other finishes and use a spirit type dye. EcoFlow is water based and will not likely soak into the leather. For cleaning, use a deglazer. There are other threads here about using deglazers and what they are made of. So do a search for them. Tom
  9. ClayB, a member here does embossing and has a couple tutorials. Look at the open mouth bear and at the buffalo. http://badlandsleatherart.com/BadlandsLeatherArtTutorials.html http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=62 Tom
  10. Read post #127, and other subsequent posts. Always a good idea to read the last few posts in a long thread like this. Tom
  11. See this thread http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=53760&hl=aerostitch Tom
  12. I gather you like thin soles. Thin wears out faster. If you put thicker soles on, they will be stiffer and not have the flexibility that you appear to need. Tom
  13. Take a couple photos, back of the head, top of the head, and post so someone that knows the machine can point to the adjustments. Tom
  14. Buy Methyl Hydrate at your paint/lumber store. Low cost, 1 gallon / 4L size. Works well for thinning alcohol based dyes. Tom
  15. 3x12x18" http://www.busybeetools.com/products/SURFACE-PLATE-12IN.-X-18IN.-X-3IN..html surfacing granite at Busybee. Tom
  16. All great comments. For those that use 2" straps with 2" spacing, now I see why so many butt cracks are visible, and why so many dogs squeeze out of their collars. Tom
  17. I agree LEDs are too expensive yet. Colour is improving, but the ones I've seen are not for me! You need to test them (or any others you are considering) to determine if their colour rendition is suitable for you and the type of work. Especially when trying to determine the colours of dye and how they appear. Tom
  18. You can get various types of lamps to suit your preferences. Compact fluorescent lamps (CFL) are available in warm, daylight, and one that has a distinctly blue cast which I can't stand. Good old tungsten lamps are yellowish, but we are accustomed to that so think it is relatively normal. I use OTT-Lite. Have a desk and floor lamp with daylight type bulbs in them. I find them to be quite helpful for my work, including doing paperwork. http://www.ottlite.com/ They are available in most big box stores. They have bulbs/lamps that fit regular bases too. Tom
  19. Here are a couple patterns: http://leatherworker...=15#entry205112 http://www.classicbe...letpatterns.pdf Do a search here or a google search for wallet patterns and you will find more. Tom
  20. Note that Coach uses a clamp-on buckle, so no skiving, no fold. If the buckle is put on as soon as the belt is cut to length, then the threads will be clamped as well (assuming the clamp is full belt width). So the threads shouldn't unravel. The keeper just slides on. You could put a rivet in it or a couple stitches by hand. Tom
  21. Was the leather wet when you sewed it? Kind of looks like the leather was quite soft. Is the leather from the belly? Also, are you using a leather point needle? Possible that your top and bottom tensions are too tight. They do appear to be balanced, so if you reduce the bottom tension, you will have to reduce the top as well. Tom
  22. If you saturate it with neatsfoot oil, it will never dry out and will be mushy. Apply sparingly and wait 8 hours or more. Tom
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