Northmount

For his full post here on LW, go to http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23901 Tom

http://elfitakorea.blogspot.ae/ This link works better.

Had a look at the new printing by Tandy. It is a large book, will cover a lot of your coffee table. Screw post binding on the long side. Portrait printed for the single sheets. About an inch thick. Some sheets fold out 4 times, so need the be taken out of the book to work with. It's more than I want to pay for. But would make a good present for a leatherworker! I made a suggestion, now see what happens at Christmas! Tom

Some contact cements can be removed by letting a puddle of cement dry in a cup or some disposable dish, then using the solidified wad to press against and pull off the errant cement on your leather. You keep pressing and pulling it off, move to a new surface on your wad, and keep repeating. If you are familiar with using tape to pull of adhesive residue from left price tags, you already know the process. Just keep repeating until the job is done. Using a solvent spreads the stuff around and gets more of it into the leather surface. Tom

If the white stuff happens to be wax ... You can test for wax by warming it up some. If it melts easily, it's wax. Can probably rub it with your fingers to work it into the leather, or buff off the excess. There was another thread a few months ago about wax forming on the surface after doing some finishing work. Try a search for it. Tom

A couple spots look like they are undercut. Hold the knife so the blade is always perpendicular to the leather, so it doesn't slide under the edge of the cut. I think you cuts are really pretty good. Mine are getting worse due to medical problems, so yours are much better than mine are now. Tom

I use transparency film on a laser printer. Works well. Tom

Very nice! Tom

Make a small platform that clips over the bottom cross braces at the height you want. Chances are a chain will work for your speed pedal. Then when not in use, move it up to the top braces. Using chains, you won't have to disconnect anything. Tom

Had a Tandy email today where they are clearing out the key posts. So try the Tandy site. Tom

As mentioned above, reduce the top tension. It is too tight and pulling the knot right through. If the tension disks are loose, remove a wrap from around a guide post too. Make sure the thread is pulling off the spool and not getting hung up. Tom

If the iPhone has a magnetic switch in it (like the iPad) to blank the screen when the cover is closed, that is the only effect that magnets will have on modern solid state devices. Does not affect memory, etc. as magnetism is not used for storing information. It is easy to test, just move a magnet around the front and back surfaces to see if it triggers any switches. Some models of Blackberry phones use a magnet in the case to switch the screen off automatically when the phone is holstered. The one thing to watch for with phone cases is that they are not so tight as to hold push bottom switches in the depressed position. Software can get mixed up with the "unusual" condition and require a hard re-boot, taking the battery out and replacing it, to restart the phone. Some after market cases were being blamed for these software problems, blamed on the magnets, but really was the case was too tight. Tom

Try reducing the time you have the stamp on the leather. Just want to burn the impression, not cook all the leather under the stamp. Tom

You need to buff off all the "loose" pigment on the top of the leather after it dries. That's the stuff that didn't soak in. That will reduce the amount that gets spread around when applying a finish on top of it. Water based dyes dissolve easily with water based or alcohol/acetone or other strong solvents. So as you say, air brushing is you best answer to avoid mixing it up again. But really buffing the surface stuff off will help reduce the spread. A waxy finish is really a conditioner, not necessarily a sealer. But might be adequate for what you want. Mop n Glow is just an acrylic floor wax/polish used for vinyl tiles and such. Should find many other brands that you could use. There are some additives in the acrylic floor wax that helps to clean the floor. So rubbing it around on your dyed surface will lift the dye as well. You may be able to find an atomizer spray bottle that will work for you to spray the finish on with. It needs to emit a fine mist. Any droplets will leave marks on the leather. Windex window cleaner spray bottles are supposed to be good. The misting type for plants or ironing that I picked up are not fine enough. Tom

Read post number 127! Tom

Look at post 18 in this thread. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=46554&st=15 Rest of the thread has some good and interesting discussion about saddle fit. Tom

8 oz leather needs at least 1/4" additional for each bend. Cut a strap and test it. Tom

Here is another option I just found http://www.allimageprinting.com/corner_cutter.html corner cutting press and pliers type with dies. Tom

Another source for small bearings is the guide bearings for router bits. Go to your local power tool store. Tom

Can also use wood carving tools ... sweep, gouge, etc. available in various curves. Tom

This is the only one I see http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-ViewAdLargeImage?AdId=503460943&Keyword=industrial%20sewing%20machines I wouldn't waste my time on this one, unless you are a collector and want to fix it up. Tom

And there are many threads on this subject, some recently from the UK and Europe. So a few searches may be in order too. Helps to broaden your exposure and to answer many of the questions you should have. Tom

Barry King and other Sheridan bevellers are steeper and easier to bevel neatly with than what the Tandy kit tools and current Tandy standard tools are. Good tools do make a difference. Tom

Lookin pretty good! I see you are getting along fine with you new machine. Did you purposely put the top side stitching on the inside? I'd put it on the show side to show off a bit. You should be able to make a lot of sales through the vet's office. Good going! Tom

Cut oversize to start, do your tooling, check the fit and line up all joints, mark start and end points of stitching on both sides of the seam, trim to fit perfectly on at least 1 end, mark out your stitches, trim the other end to match if you haven't already. Pay attention to any twists or stretched parts as you are trying to line up the joins before you do any trimming so you can get the best fit with no strange twists. I have had to place a weight (not heavy, just enough to keep it flat) on top of some thin items to ensure they dry flat after tooling before proceeding further with assembly. Just leaving the item laying on your bench to dry, it can still warp. Keeping it flat helps a lot. Always test fits before gluing, punching, marking stitches, etc. That is the time where you can easily fix small miss-matches. Tom