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Northmount

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Everything posted by Northmount

  1. Do a Google search for "ocr abbyy finereader free download". I used it several years ago. It was being supplied with some scanners too. There are others too, search "ocr software". There is open source, etc. Most should run in Windows 7. Tom
  2. Well the converter didn't care about the language. I haven't proof read the files so there could be characters that didn't come through correctly. The PDF includes the graphics and text. You should be able to copy the text out now. In case you have problems, the text file is only text so will definitely be able to copy the text from it. You will be able to compare the text visually so you can match up with the illustrations. Attachments.pdf Attachments.txt Have fun! Tom
  3. I'll see if it will work for me tonight. If I can find German settings in my software. I bought PDF Pro a while back. Around $100. Has worked ok for me so far. Tom
  4. Very nice job. And it does belong here! Tom
  5. Basically, it is a picture, not text. (Scanned and saved as a PDF document.) It would have to be run through OCR (optical character recognition) software first to convert it to text. Then you can copy and past to google.Tom
  6. Also, the tension strip/spring should have a smooth curve to its shape. Make sure it is not bent.
  7. There are 2 screws on the bobbin. One holds the end of the metal strip, the other adjusts the amount of pinch (tension) the thread is subject to. So first, make sure you are on the right screw for the adjustment. Some manuals have reversed the screw descriptions, but if you look carefully, you can figure it out. Second, look for a piece of thread that might be jammed between the bobbin case and the tension flap/strip. Take it right off and clean the surfaces. Tom Edit: I assume you are pulling the thread through the bobbin slot and under the tension strip.
  8. I bought a container, 500 g (1.1 lbs) of oxalic acid crystals for less than $20. Bought it through a local pharmacy. Supplier is Xenex Labs at Coquitlam, BC and Ferndale, WA phone 1-800-663-1002. I suspect ordering from the lab would get an even better price. Not a bad price at all, and 500 g will last a long time. Container is a plastic bottle, 5" H x 3.5" dia. Tom
  9. Don't post copyrighted material unless you own the rights. Anything you make yourself is great. Copyrights expire after about 35 years (depends on a few things, sometimes measured from the death date, some not). Varies depending on the country. Derivative works can be copyrighted but credit needs to be given to the original owner. There is a fairly good description of copyright info on Wikipedia. Tom
  10. Look at the Consew 227 variants manuals here: http://www.consew.com/Resources/ Manuals have bobbin tension instructions, though the 2 screws may be labelled opposite. Tom
  11. Use pippettes or syringes to pull small amounts from a bottle, but with shakey hands like mine, don't knock over thr bottle! Brace it against something so you can use two hands to steady the syringe. Tom
  12. See post #1. You will have to use the tile function in Adobe pdf printing for your typical home printer, or take to a printing or copy service that prints in large formats. Tom
  13. Here are a couple threads for your reference http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=15121&hl=%2Bheating+%2Bmetal+%2Bstamp#entry93748 http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=56446&hl=%2Bmetal+%2Bstamp+%2Btemperature#entry362178 Tom
  14. Heat the stamp in your oven, then mount it on the handle with heat on so it won't cool too quickly if you are stamping multiples. There are other threads about heating brass stamps here, try a search. Tom
  15. There are lots of posts about oxalic acid, but may be daunting to sort through them all. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=38134&hl=%2Boxalic+%2Bacid+%2Bcherry#entry236505 It is available at major paint stores, big box hardware/lumber/paint stores, and by order through pharmacies. Tom
  16. If you aren't sewing through leather or some material, there is no resistance to cause the thread to form a loop at the needle. It just follows the needle back up. It also sounds like some thread caught in the bobbin basket, causing the machine to bind. Cut a strip of leather and sew along the edge with the bobbin cover open, you should be able to observe the loop form and be picked up by the hook. For your big machine, you need enough foot pressure to keep the needle from pulling the leather and foot up. Larger needles and also denser or harder leather require more foot pressure. Where do you live? You may be able to find a member with a machine, or experience that lives somewhere near you that could give some direct help. Tom Edit Has the safety clutch on your 2700 tripped? If so needs to be reset.
  17. Has to be veg tanned leather to work. Has to have the tannins to react and turn black. Tom
  18. Try cleaning with Fiebings liquid saddle soap, evenly across the whole hide. Then bleach with oxalic acid. And of course get some oil back into it. You can test on a smaller piece first so you have a good idea how it will turn out. Have salvaged some old, and some bad smelling leather using this process. Tom
  19. The type of light seems to make a difference as to what happens. I have seen a veg tanned binder that sits in a bright mostly south facing (hot) window. The portion that is exposed to the light has bleached substantially. So that would say that infrared light seems to bleach, since UV is mostly blocked by the glass. But that doesn't adequately explain why leather darkens inside your workshop, since it is most likely protected from UV unless you have lots of fluorescent lamps that produce UV. Maybe it's just the heat that bleached the exposed parts of the binder. More questions than answers! Tom
  20. Try bleaching with oxalic acid. Has worked for me. Test on a scrap piece first. Tom
  21. Fantastic! More ideas to try. Thanks for posting these. Tom
  22. Lots of good information and some new techniques. Thanks Tom
  23. Wetting the leather enough to form it will destroy much of your tooling. Others have posted, best to tool after forming. Tom
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