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Northmount

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Everything posted by Northmount

  1. Pretty much the only way to get all the parts to line up and have a nice smooth consistent edge is to cut a little oversize and then trim the excess after it is stitched (or at least glued) together. Looks pretty nice, and of course would ba a little nicer with the edges trimmed to match. Tom
  2. Too much top tension pulls the bobbin thread up. If the top tension feels fairly light, then the bobbin tension needs to be increased. Large needle size makes it easy for the top tension to pull the bobbin thread up too high. It is a balancing act. Check your needle size vs thread size first. Look at this thread needle chart http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html. I'd try the top tension next before increasing the bobbin tension. Tom
  3. If the link is a direct link to the PDF, right click, save as or save link as (depending on software versions) and save it where you want it. Tom
  4. Sounds like your top thread may have jumped out from between the tension disks. With the bobbin thread laying on the bottom, not pulled up into the material, says there is no or too little top tension. Tom
  5. You can sort by any column, just by clicking on its header. Click again on the same header and it reverses the sort direction. So like Dwight says, can sort filenames alphabetically too. Tom
  6. Acrylic finishes are water based versus a lacquer. Acrylic can be cut (thinned) using water. Many cut it to 50% to apply! and apply multiple coats. Tom
  7. 277 is too large a diameter for some bobbins, such as cowboy 227 and techsew 2700 and related clones. Tom
  8. Can also stitch the fold lines to make it a little stiffer. But won't make floppy leather stiff. Tom
  9. Ask UPS, or talk to a brokerage agent. If you learn the ins and outs, you can clear your own stuff from UPS instead of paying their exhobitant fees. FedEx does same as UPS. If you clear your own stuff, takes time and travel. Can tie you up 3 or 4 hours depending on the day. Lots of info on the web. Including instructions and forms. Tom
  10. Nail polish remover is now acetone. If you use much, it's cheaper to buy at paint and hardware stores. Also used to cleanup tools after using fibreglass resin. So is also available at automotive and boat shops/stores. EPA doesn't and California haven't classed acetone as a smog producing volatile organic compound, so it is being used in paints and finishes now. That doesn't mean it's not a harsh chemical. Don't breathe too much of it! Tom
  11. Moderators watch and delete double and triple posts when they see them. Welcome to the forum Tom
  12. That is right. If you want to have parts of this thread edited, you can PM me with the edits you want. Or compile them into a PDF that we can post (I have PDF software I can use). I'll make the offer for this thread, but not for all threads. Have other stuff I should be doing! PM me and let me know, I'll provide my email for larger files. Tom
  13. Maybe Wizcrafts can chime in here, or Trox or Constabulary. I don't know the old machines that well, only know that I can get a much better quality machine for that price, even some real nice antiques if that was what I was looking for. Tom
  14. Did you try Longview Leather? http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=54135&p=346649 Tandy in Calgary often has saddle skirting, haven't looked at its quality. There is a place in Edmonton I came across on google as well sometime ago. Tom
  15. Keep your knife perpendicular to the leather. Just a slight lean could put you off a mm. Tom
  16. Nice! The old bag is pretty good, and has developed character. Tom
  17. If you give your machine make and model number, someone will be able to help you. Tom
  18. Looks like a very high price for unknown condition, poor looking machines, and by the description, 3 phase power. Tom
  19. Bound buttonholes are used on higher end coats, jackets. The long sides of the buttonholes have extra material added to give a rolled edge. I have a really nice leather coat with this style. I remember my mom doing coat buttonholes many years ago. And of course, for the most part, they are done by hand. http://rhondabuss.blogspot.ca/2012/10/bound-button-holes.html http://www.sewalongs.com/anise/anise-tutorial-bound-buttonholes http://www.uniquepatterns.com/education/sewing-insider/71 http://sewaholic.net/bound-buttonholes-my-favourite-method/ Tom
  20. Probably part of the reaction between iron and the tannin in the leather - helped along by your humid climate. Like vinegaroon. Do black/dark blue/grey spots form on the surface of the leather inside the sheath against the steel blade? If so, I wonder if chrome tanned lining would prevent it. I think you have the opportunity here for a few experiments. Let us know what you learn. Tom
  21. Moved to "Suppliers" and pinned. Looks like a good resource list for the UK. Tom
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